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 Post subject: Rudder Cam
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2004 12:31 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Redlands, Ca
My old rudder cam, bit the bullet, the adjustment screw is not budging, how on earth do I replace it with a new one??


HELP I CANT SAIL UNTILL I FIX THIS!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:57 am
Posts: 1609
Location: Clear Lake Iowa
Isn't that the one you just drill out and replace with the new kit?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 12:24 am
Posts: 143
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
FTW
Have you checked out Product support there is a large section just on Cams at the top of this page click support sail boats click Cams. Are they lubercated? I use a now old butter knife to free the cam when locked in the down position. My wife just shook her head :roll: let us know how it turns out.

Todd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:13 pm
Posts: 56
Location: New Orleans, LA
I just recently changed out both of the white 3/4" adjustment plugs on my H-18. I drilled a small pilot hole down the center of the plug, then came back slowly with re- drilled the hole with a 1/2" bit. For the remaining plastic in the treads, I lightly heated the alum tread area with a propane torch, and then used an ice pick to grab the left over plastic and pulled it away from the threads. Instead of putting back a set of plastic plugs, I made a set of stainless plugs by taking a 3/4" bolt and cutting it to approx. 3'4" long, and then cut a slot on one end to accommodate a screw driver. Before installing, be sure to put some (silver goop) never seize on the threads to ensure easy adjustments and removal when needed.

As far as changing out the black rudder cams, you will have to drill out the existing rivets being careful not to drill the hole too big, then replace them with the kit mentioned in the previous post. The kit rivets (bolts) are two piece screwed construction that allows for easy removal next time. Again, be sure to put some (silver goop) never seize on the threads

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4641
Location: Detroit, MI
I wouldn't use a stainless screw, I don't care how much anti-seize you put on it.

Stainless steel + aluminum + salt water = a battery

Galvanic corrosion is the result.
And the aluminum is the less noble metal. New rudder castings are $$$$ :shock:

On my 14 restoration project, I'm dealing with a fool that replaced his aluminum rudder pins with a steel bolt. To top it off, he drilled and tapped for a steel set screw in the casting to hold the bolt in. Both the bolt and the set screw are now completely frozen. I had to saw through the bolt in several places just to get the castings off the boat. :evil:

In contrast, the threaded nylon plugs came out without having to resort to the "heated screwdriver" trick.

There's a reason the plugs are inert plastic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:13 pm
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Location: New Orleans, LA
Thanks for the advice!

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Tiger 1047


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:28 am
Posts: 35
Thought you were talking about a camera. That woud be cool.

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"I'm just tryin' to keep everything in balance, Woodrow. You do more work than you got to, so it's my obligation to do less." Augustus 'Gus' McCrae


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