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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 8:54 am 
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Has anyone used MarineTec brand epoxy for repairing daggerboards or rudders?

Let me know what you think, I've got some good damage (f-ing rocks!!) on the Tiger boards.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:29 am 
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Tallguy1 wrote:
Has anyone used MarineTec brand epoxy for repairing daggerboards or rudders?

Let me know what you think, I've got some good damage (f-ing rocks!!) on the Tiger boards.

Thanks!


Marine Tex is good for a quickie beach repair, that's it. Tiger Daggers take a beating on a relatively thin edge. Fix them with glass and gelcoat.

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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 7:15 am 
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How close to the original profile does the glass have to go? Can it just be a "frame" and then fill and fair with gel? Or do I have to get the glass close and then coat it? I took a good chunk outta the board, right at the bottom, had to dig it out deep too as the ridgid foam inside got pushed in and kinda spread a lump at the bottom. I drilled most of it out, what's the best for filling big voids like that? Thickened epoxy? Then glass, then gel?

What brands of products do you use Jeremy? I'll probably hit West Marine and grab some stuff tomorrow.

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 9:01 am 
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I'd use marine resin, not necessarily epoxy. West has some glass filler that should work nice to get the thickness/strength up. Gel it to match the color and be able to sand/polish. Not sure you need glass mat or other sheets.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 7:07 pm 
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When you say Wests glass filler, do you mean the 404? I've got some of that, as well as some two part polyester resin. This mix will have epoxy like strength?

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:45 am 
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Exactly. 404, 403, even 406. That'd be super strong. Not sure its worth painting on gelcoat after since its to expensive and you have to buy a quart (maybe pint?). I would tint the epoxy mix white.

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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 5:43 am 
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yeah, Im probably going to leave it au natural, the poly resin doesnt need a topcoat and they arent going to get UV cause they are either going to be in their cases or in the water.

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Blair T

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 1:12 pm 
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How would you suggest putting the glass on?

I was thinking wrap a few layers of cloth (light cloth that I happen to have) around the leading edge and taping them onto the dagger to position them while I coat the cloth with polyester and then stretch some plastic over it to press out excess resin.

Then after painting with gelcoat, just sand and recoat till smooth.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:58 pm 
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I would put the epoxy on first then a piece of cloth then more epoxy then more glass. You avoid air bubbles this way and you can see each individual layer so you can tell if there is air trapped beneath them. Filling large voids cannot be done with epoxy alone ( well I mean it can but it is not a good solution) epoxy by itself is brittle so it needs glass fibers in it for strength and flexibility. You want lots of glass not so much epoxy and no air. Blue painters tape makes a good shaper wrap.

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