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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:01 pm 
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Location: Knoxville, TN
I was feeling pretty cocky after getting my delrin rudder tension screws out using a propane torch and and a hot screw driver. I figured surely the same techique would work on the stuck rudder rake adjustment screws on my H20. WRONG! Those screws won't budge. In my futile attempts, I discovered that if you don't allow enough time for the smaller screw driver w/thinner blade to cool adequately, you can twist it like a propeller. At any rate, the buggered remains of the delrin screws are still in there, hot screw drivers aren't working, and I'm asking for suggestions. I've thought about trying to melt them out but am concerned about that much heat cracking a casting. Has anyone tried something like a reverse drill bit and following it with a die? I've read about that as an alternative method for removing tension screws, I think Jeremy has a video on it. I'm leaning on something along those lines unless someone has a better idea. Would one of you experts know what size bit and die I would need? Other ideas?

Thanks,

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:28 pm 
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MVD wrote:
Other ideas?

Leave them alone?

Seriously, nobody I know even bothers with them. Rake forward until the rudder hits the casting, then take the slop out with the adjustment in the upper casting.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:25 pm 
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
I torched my delrin screws out- you dont need that much heat, it actually burns/melts out. Don't breathe it. Then make a tap from a big bolt to clean it out. I posted a pic here once.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 5:58 am 
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Matt,

To rake forward to the casting, I'd need to trim off about a 1/4 inch of the delrin screw. Do I understand you right, is that what you'd do?

Thanks

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Mark Van Doren
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H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:52 am 
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Location: Storm Lake, IA
I just cut mine off flush with a utility knife. and maybe a little heat to soften the plastic up


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:58 am 
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MVD wrote:
Matt,

To rake forward to the casting, I'd need to trim off about a 1/4 inch of the delrin screw. Do I understand you right, is that what you'd do?

Thanks

Yep. For sure you'll need to take the slop out with the adjustment in the upper casting, and your helm will probably be different (less pull - maybe even lee helm) - but you're going to destroy the screw anyway to get it out. Might as well experiment.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:49 am 
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Initially, my goal wasn't merely to remove the screws, but to replace them with new ones and lubricate so they would actually function. I've already got the replacement screws. I'll continue to try to get the old screws out and try to make the rake adjustment work as advertised. Sometimes I'm too much of a perfectionist for my own good. If I can't get them out, oh well, I'll do without. Doesn't appear they're that important anyway.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:01 pm 
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Location: Greenville, NC
Replaced mine after replacing the rudder cam tension delrins. If they have some years on them as mine, they are a pain just in smaller scale.
I did the same as Divi.
If they are now chewed up fairly well, drench the hole in WD-40 or cutting oil. Let soak for a few hours. Later, try to remove the larger chunks with a screwdriver. At this point you can run (I don't remember the size/thread) a matching size bolt SLOWLY, working in small increments, clockwise then counterwise. Continue this pattern, slowly, don't force it. Remove the delrin frequently as you tread deeper.

Tap is the way to go but, a quality bolt worked just as good for me.
As Matt mentioned, not that functional once rudder rake is set, but I was suffering from a horrible case of cabin fever.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:05 pm 
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I know what you mean. Fiddling around with this stuff is excellent therapy for cabin fever. I'm even contemplating turning my boat over in the garage and spraying some gel on the bottoms.

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Mark Van Doren
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H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:25 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
For what it's worth ... to remove my rudder kick up adjuster I set fire to it with a propane torch, as suggested above. Then I had to go find a guy with a big (3/4, 7/8?) tap to clean up the residue. The rake adjustment screw should be easier. Especially finding a tap. For my money, as Matt suggests, the rake adjustment screw is mostly for setting how deep you want to punch a hole in the front of your rudder. So you can burn it out, rethread the hole, grease everything, reinstall the adjuster set flush with the casting. Or cut it off and make sure the rudder is pushed up against the rudder casting then take out the slop with the bolt on the top. At least that's what I did. YMMV

PS I'm sanding and repairing my rudders. Thinking of a paint job like the America's Cup 45.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:09 pm 
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Location: Clinton, Mississippi
BigWhoop wrote:
... the rake adjustment screw is mostly for setting how deep you want to punch a hole in the front of your rudder.


Too funny Whoop! Good luck with restoring those rudders...post some pix when you're done.

Mark: FWIW...I just cut the rake adjustment screw flush as well (H-16 and H-14T). Works fine (and no holes in the front of the rudders!).

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 12:30 pm 
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Location: Lake Norman NC
drilled my old ones out with no problem
used a bolt to clean the threads placed the new screws to barely stick out to contact castings
I tried to use teflon tape on threads but that did not work


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