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"Bullet-proof" I think not
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3527		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  John Eaton [ Fri May 05, 2006 10:20 am ]
Post subject:  "Bullet-proof" I think not
The boat sat so long someone was tempted to find out if Hobies are really "bullet-proof" as many will claim.

The .22 caliber point went completely through the starboard hull (close to the bow), lost some velocity, and through the inside of the port hull (rather low) leaving three holes to fill.

What are the ideas to keep resin from running out while wetting and filling?
Author:  MBounds [ Fri May 05, 2006 11:31 am ]
Post subject: 
:lol: You're lucky it wasn't a shotgun!

.22's are small holes - I'd just use some Formula 27 (kinda like marine grade Bondo) and fill them with that. It's got the consistency of peanut butter.

Or - you could mix up your own "super Bondo" by chopping some fiberglass (with scissors) into resin and adding a thickening agent (fumed silica) until it's like peanut butter.

In either case, take a small paint brush (like model-building) and wet the inside of the hole with catylized resin first. That'll make sure what follows sticks.
Author:  zingaro [ Sat May 06, 2006 5:54 am ]
Post subject: 
I had some 22 size holes in my 77 project boat.. used JB weld, if you countersink the hole it give it a good lateral area to adhere. JB weld now has some quick dryin` stuff. The regular may need 2 applications. Waiting a few minutes before application starts to stiffen up the mix. I plugged some extra holes in the mast via countersinkin`..seems to hold OK ..pics of repair at www
Author:  MBounds [ Sat May 06, 2006 6:16 am ]
Post subject: 
If you want to color match (spray / brush gel coat), don't use epoxy to repair the holes (like JB Weld). Polyester doesn't stick well to epoxy.

JB Weld is too hard for fairing out, too.

But if you don't care how it looks, JB Weld will certainly work. Just be sure to level it off before it hardens (minimal sanding).
Author:  John Eaton [ Mon May 08, 2006 5:31 am ]
Post subject: 
Did you mean gelcoat (not polyester) doesn't stick well to epoxy?

I was thinking of using some polyester resin I have, since these are not structural repairs. I've cleaned out and cut back into "fresh" gelcoat and raw fiberglass at the old crack repair and bullet holes to let everything dry out for a few days.
Author:  MBounds [ Mon May 08, 2006 6:41 am ]
Post subject: 
Gel coat is polyester resin with a high pigment content.

polyester / polyester generates a good chemical bond in addition to a physical bond.

epoxy / polyester needs a good physical bond (rough surface) - there is minimal/no chemical bond

When epoxy cures, it generates a waxy "amine blush" that must be removed before anything will stick to it. It can be removed with wet sanding and/or denatured alcohol.
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