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 Post subject: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 10:01 am
Posts: 76
Location: OC NJ
Had this repaired by a 'pro' about five years ago. It looks like it needs a more extensive rebuild. Any thoughts on how to proceed?

Image


Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 10:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:50 am
Posts: 218
Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
had a similar situation on mine. Found that the plywood under the glass was wet and rotted. not saying what i did was right but, here is how i did it:
cut the glass away:
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cut out the wood the best you can:
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cut new wood to fit and completely cover with resin to keep the water out in the future:
Image

glass her back up:
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gel coat the repair (mine is painted but gel coat is the right way)
Image

the trick part is marking the gudgeon screw holes. I am changing over to the new style gudgeons so i wasn't too worried about the holes.

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 10:59 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:35 pm
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
Good exterior solution for sure. I would add a port hole in the back (top) and get the back (in)side glassed for even more strength. I would remove/replace the aluminum as well and redrill and add nuts or whatever you need. Reelknotty's looks strong enough tho., just another option.

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 12:39 pm 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
BTW ottos,
after my boat hits the water for the first time in a few weeks maybe we can hook up. I'm in Anchorage Pointe. While yours is down for repairs maybe you can hop on mine and give me some pointers.

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 12:53 pm 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
in hind sight.... i wonder why there is wood in there anyway? Why couldn't you just fill that void with body filler? stonger than wood and wouldn't rot.


just thinking out loud again.

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 3:19 pm 
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
There is composite material like seacast to replace wood but Filler cracks easy (no flex). the reason I think wood is there is to keep strength up, weight down. Maybe full fiberglass, but again, weight...

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 6:08 pm 
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Location: OC NJ
knotty,

Sailing on the bay would be a blast. I'm at 29th st on the beach.

I agree about the wood. I was thinking if when I get it opened up it is deteriorated, I might try starboard.

The other thought is to dremel out the crack and fill it with a filled poly resin to get me through the season....but it is taking on some serious water, so I guess it is flexing under strain.....


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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:37 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
Div... that makes sense.

Ottos... I took one lesson at baycats last year on a wave and got hooked and bought my basket case. I have been working on it ever since. I rented a wave over the winter on the Disney Cruise to seal my need to try sailing the hobie. So in total I have sailed twice and both of them didn't have a jib. I'm am open to any and all advice. I wont be back in the area until 8/14 at the earliest but hopefully i will have the hobie in tow. shoot me an email if your willing to teach me a few tricks.

knotty@njstriper.com

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:58 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
ottos wrote:
The other thought is to dremel out the crack and fill it with a filled poly resin to get me through the season....but it is taking on some serious water, so I guess it is flexing under strain.....


I would not trust using only putty in this case. It's structural. If it's taking on lots of water, that means its cracked through and your transom is starting to separate from the hull.

You could probably do a quickie repair by pulling off the gudgeon and wrapping multiple layers of glass around the transom to the sides of the hull if you want something to get you through the season. It won't look pretty, but with enough reinforcement, it will likely hold up OK. Certainly better than just using putty.

sm


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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:45 pm
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
Ottos,
What Reel did was definitely the right way to do this. West System has a whole set of guides on repairs, including replacing cores:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf

If the transom is leaking badly, that means the inner skin is compromised, and in addition to replacing the core and reglassing the outer skin, to do a proper job repairing this you also need to open up the hull and reglass the inner skin.

Lastly, make sure you follow the instructions in the West System manual for drilling holes and bedding hardware when drilling holes for the rudder. Otherwise, water will eventually make its way back in, and you'll find yourself in the same situation sometime down the road. Properly done, there is no reason why a repair job using wood won't last for the life of the boat.

Like Div said, the wood adds thickness (technically, increases the moment of inertia), without adding much weight. The end result is a laminate much stiffer and stronger than a solid laminate of the same weight, or much lighter than a laminate of the same strength. Whatever you use for the core needs to be strong and light, especially in shear- body filler is neither of these. There's a reason why wood is used as a core material in a lot of sailboats. You could try
Starboard, but my concern (other than the weight) would be that if the starboard area is much stiffer than the surrounding areas, hard points might develop as the transom flexes and cracking could start again.

Steve

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:16 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
i just used scrap luan plywood i had laying around and coated it with poly resin. left it cure, sanded it a bit and put another coat on it especially the edges where water can wick in. when i installed the wood i coated the aluminum block and wood with resin again and "glued" it into place. I used chopped glass to fill any voids to the sides. then used mat cut to the general shape to bring it back to the original level. to finish it i wrapped mat about 2" up the sides of the hull and up into the lip. That should be enough strength. all that was left was to smooth and blend it into the hull. i guess if I measured it my hull is now a millimeter or 2 longer than factory :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:23 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
ottos: I just read your post again about starboard... are you talking about the white marine plastic? If so i don't think poly resin will bond with it. Then you will be right back where you started in very short order.

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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 6:18 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 10:01 am
Posts: 76
Location: OC NJ
Thanks for all the advice. Yes, the way knotty did his repair looks like the way to do this. Good point about material adhering to the starboard.

Knotty, I'll send you an email...you just bring the Wilbur Buds. Boy its a long time since I've been to Lititz!


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 Post subject: Re: Transom crack
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:29 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
Dark, Milk, or mixed? :mrgreen:

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