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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:15 am 
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Location: Clinton, Mississippi
MVD wrote:
Jimrude, what did you find to be the most effective method of removing the old contact cement? I'm about to replace the old carpet on my 14 with neoprene.

Thanks,


MVD: How's TN?

In my experience, if you're going back with more contact cement for the new covering, you don't have to be too anal about the old cement. The solvents in the new cement will dissolve the old enough to bond if you just get rid of the old carpet material. Of course YMMV!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Location: Portland, OR
MVD wrote:
Jimrude, what did you find to be the most effective method of removing the old contact cement? I'm about to replace the old carpet on my 14 with neoprene.

Thanks,


Massive, and I mean massive, amounts of Goof Off. Used a metal putty knife, and lots of elbow grease. I think the previous (original) owner used a gallon or two of contact cement. It was probably on there for 21 years. It took me about 20 hours to get it all off...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:58 am
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Location: Knoxville, TN
Thanks for the tips. My lazy streak makes me lean towards Jerome's idea. I think I'll just smooth out the old cement a bit with sand paper and put the new stuff right over the old.

I'm enjoying Tenessee so far. The moving truck got here on Sept 18 and it's been pretty busy since then. I've got all three boats parked at Concord Yacht Club and plan to go sailing on Thursday or Friday. It'll be nice to escape from unpacking and house chores.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:57 pm 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
I don't remember having much of a problem with the glue residue when I replaced my rail rug. I probably cleaned the loose stuff off with a wire brush and solvent and then glued over it.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 12:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:35 pm
Posts: 613
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
MBounds wrote:
One word:

Hydroturf

http://hydroturf.com/products.php?cat=S ... Hydro-Turf

Lighter than neoprene, with none of the bad habits (water retention) of carpet.

Bit pricey, though, especially when you add in the adhesive.



Order the "B" stock material. Great Stuff and great company. I use to be sponsored by them when I was racing Jetskis and competing in Freestyle.

Picking up a H16 in the next week, plan to install turf on the sides over the winter.

This gives you an idea on how much you can work the material, if you look to the left side, there are footholds where the turf when heated can be molded and stretched into inverted or negative angles.

Image Disclaimer, I did not turf this hull. One I was selling for someone.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 4:44 am 
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Have no experience with the Neoprene but i think carpet works well for me. Its even easy to maintain it.

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Last edited by brainponting on Sat Nov 17, 2012 5:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9328
Location: Oceanside, California
My biggest gripe about carpet is getting my dry shirt wet when de-rigging!

You know... when you lean over the rail to tie up the wires and sheets for trailering. Burr!

To keep trap line / bungee from catching on the neoprene, bevel the underside edge. That is part of a Worlds boat standard set up.

Fyi... from the Hobie Parts Catalog (any Hobie Dealer):

NEOPRENE RAIL KITS
Provides excellent footing while out on the trapeze and cushions the non-skid areas. Eliminates abrasion on your skin or clothing because it sheds sand. Zero water retention. Made out of 1/8" thick knobby black neoprene. Kit includes industrial grade contact cement, brush, and instructions for easy installation on any boat. Race strips are for hull decks rear of trampoline frame. H16 kits are full wrap around as used in Worlds boats.

16706 H14 / H16 Kit
16707 Race Strips-Pair
16708 H18 Kit
(H18 Die Cut)

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