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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:03 pm 
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Hi all,

New to this forum and Hobie Cats in general! I was sailing my new to me 1986 16' last weekend and when using my beach wheels, it would appear that we opened up an old repair along the keel area of the starboard hull. The crack is about 18" long, and in the middle it is about a half inch wide.

I would like any suggestions anyone has for repair. I have read a lot of the fiberglass repair forums and articles, but I would like to double check with you.

I was thinking of using some of my PC-11 marine epoxy and some clamps to close and fill the crack as best I can. Then sand it all down and do some glass patching using the west system.

I am a recent college graduate struggling to survive in this economy and would like to stay away from West Marine and their inflated prices, if possible. Can anyone recommend a kit I can buy online? I saw a bunch on eBay and other sites, but am unsure of how much I will be needing.

I think that's it for now. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Chris




[img]<a%20href="http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/creisingercsuchico/media/photo12.jpg.html"%20target="_blank"><img%20src="http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee491/creisingercsuchico/photo12.jpg"%20border="0"%20alt="hole%20photo%20photo12.jpg"/></a>[/img]

[img]<a%20href="http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/creisingercsuchico/media/photo11.jpg.html"%20target="_blank"><img%20src="http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee491/creisingercsuchico/photo11.jpg"%20border="0"%20alt="Crack%20photo%20photo11.jpg"/></a>[/img]


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:06 am 
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Fixed your links:
Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:17 am 
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Thanks. I'm new to online forums.. Now if fixing my boat was as easy as fixing those links...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:47 am 
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Bottom was worn through. If it just opened up, the previous job was poorly done and failed.

Search "Bottom Job".

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/search.php?keywords=Bottom+Job&terms=all&author=&fid%5B%5D=14&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:10 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Download the September/October 2008 edition of the Hobie Hotline. It has an article detailing how to do a bottom job. The May/June 2008 edition will also be helpful as it has an article on "blind hole repairs".

I would not use epoxy for this repair. Use polyester or vinylester resin. Also keep in mind that surface prep is just as important as the fiberglass lamination process. You need to scuff the repair area very well with sand paper and then clean the surface thoroughly using acetone. A structurally sound repair of something like this can be done in a few hours and for about $50 in materials. I've had good results using fiberglass supplies from uscomposites.com and fiberglasssupply.com

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 7:08 pm 
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Here is a link to the article http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive ... 0_2008.pdf SRM mentioned.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:19 am 
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Thanks for all the help. I think I'm mostly set. I plan to use polyester resin and 2" glass tape for the bottom job.

Just one question I still have. What weight fiberglass should I use for the bottom job? The only reference I saw told me to use 6-8oz for the blind hole patch and 2oz for the outer layer(s.) Please let me know what you think, and I'll keep you updated.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:15 am 
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Use the 8oz tape for everything. 2oz glass would be used for a light-duty application, to hide the fiberglass weave, or to laminate in a tight radius curve. For this application, 2oz glass would be a poor choice since it will take forever to build up the necessary thickness using 2oz glass.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 6:47 pm 
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Your first picture looks like the same we had to deal with:
Image[/URL]
This is how we made a "backing" out of a small thin sheet topped with dry glass before building up the rest of the bottom job. the string went to a ladder over the hull for tension. the sheet is larger and slipped in wet to bond to the inside.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:43 am 
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Jonathan, thanks for the photo and advice. I'm still slightly confused about blind hole repairs. So, do I put the patch in while its still wet and flexible? Or do I let the patch dry and then work it in the hole and into place and then fill the hole with resin and chopped glass? Did you use a dry (cured) patch with a dry piece of glass over the patch ready to soak up some resin?

PS, I ordered lots of good stuff from fiberglasssupply.com including 1", 1.5", and 2" wide glass tape as well as polyester resin and all the other goodies needed for the job.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:52 am 
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I bent a toothbrush and cleaned the inside of the blind hole really well with acetone in a well ventilated area.

For backing I used a very thin sheet of hardened fiberglass mat that I made. In areas where that did not flex enough for the inside curve of the hull I used a cheap cutting board* for backing - one of those really thin flexy ones you can get for a buck or two.

cut the backing to overlap the hole as much as you can but still fit it inside - maybe an inch or two if you can - maybe overkill but as a novice that's what I did:)). Then cut glass matt to layer it up on the backing - I may have had 4-5 layers. Then inserted the machine screw and string. Wearing disposable rubber gloves.

Have everything set up and make a few dry runs fitting it. With it in place use a marker to dot around the edge to mark the area left exposed.

Get your epoxy ready and slather the inside of the hole and the area on the fiberglass it will be in contact with (why you marked it off in previous step - I didn't wet that area until I layered up the top layers. Probably not necessary but that's what I did). Fit it in place and tie if off and let it cure.

* we tied string to the cutting board piece and led the string inside through the drain hole. After curing the piece fell away and we pulled it out by the string. We could have left it in but thought we'd be neat about it. Where we used fiberglass backing it adhered so no need to retrieve.

Follow advice on these forums, not just mine, and search blind hole repair on youtube as well. Good luck Chris!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 7:47 pm 
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OK!! I think I am ready to tackle this as soon as my glass and resin arrive. I am just working on sanding it down now. I'll finish prepping with my vibrating palm sander and 80 grit, I think.

Last question: I think I have to sand off ALL the old gel coat and get down to the old glass in the areas I am lawing new glass, right? Or is it ok if I occasionally lay a little of the edges of the new glass over sanded (80 grit) and cleaned (acetone) gel coat?

Many thanks,
Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 8:07 pm 
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Keep asking! Lay the glass on roughed up glass. Rough up the inside too before cleaning, forgot to mention that.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:07 am 
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I've been using my vibrating palm sander with 50 grit on it (makes it easier to get through gel coat) and that even seems to leave the fiberglass pretty smooth to the touch. I believe most use 80 and acetone to prep. Am I doing it wrong or will the tiny microscopic scratches from the 50/ 80 give the resin plenty to grab onto? Should I ditch the vibrating sander and rough it up some more with 80 grit and a sanding block?
Thanks
Chris


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:54 pm 
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I think you're good. I finished with rough grit paper by fingertip underneath and out before cleaning.

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