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 Post subject: LIGHTS & POWER 12v
PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2004 6:25 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Hudson, FL
Looking for feedback for putting 12V on a Getaway.
Ideas to date: Solar yard lights buried in the BOB, another set of coolers for 30 Ah Gel Cels with waterproof junction ports topsides to plug things into, creating a Getaway Version of the Hobie 21 SC storage box, and mounting a large flat panel solar cell sheet over the front tramp or on a bracket system over the rudders and outboard. LED marker bulbs inserted into the hulls.
FEEDBACK Please.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 5:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
The lights are the easy part. As you now water (especially salt water) and wiring do not mix. Make sure you use solder and shink wrap where applicable to keep out the corrsive moisture.

My only concern is you want to cut new holes for the second set of coolers into the hulls. On the rotomolded boats you are effectively cutting into the structure. You will need to find a way to support the hull around the area you removed. Remember that epoxy may not bond to the material. You make have to think of using mechanical fasteners and waterproofing them.

It might be more beneficial to build a waterproof electrical box you can place on the front of the main crossbar. I have used battery operated, portable lights on my kayak. They worked fine. I realize this is not the best idea for longer trips.

My 2 cents

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 10:59 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2004 6:25 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Hudson, FL
I understand the added structure issues and have decided the best thing to do is make a "Cat Box" similar to the old H21 SC. I would like to find one for comparison, but have been doing some modeling.
I currently have the flashlight lights and have used them for two seasons now, but I would like to have instruments on board for weather, GPS and depth, as I am doing more distance now, than beaching and I go for the weekend camping excursions all the time.
The problem with a battery box up front is the weight factor, and what would happen if we go over. Having the batteries in the "hold" is keeping a lower profile and out of the way.
I will probably just use the existing boxes for batteries and carry a small cooler, as they don't work very well anyway as a cooler. Of course I'll have to seal them better too as they leak bad. (even when adjusted)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 1:36 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
I like your idea of the box across the front of the tramp. You might be able to run wires external on the hulls back to your cooler/battery box. Just keep them under the tramps. Instead fo trying to waterproof the coolers, maybe a waterproof case for the batteries that fits inside the cooler. This gives you a little more control of the situation. Just a thought.

_________________
Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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