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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 12:41 pm
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looks good and should be easy to remove from the water in winter. You must be in a very protected area where there is no wave action.

I plan to leave mine in the water for winter. I'll tie it up to a tree just in case the ice tries to take it out, but even if it moves, it should be easy to reposition it.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 10:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 12:36 pm
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Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
mchristo: I really like your Hobie lift/dock. Nice clean design! I would like to replicate it on my lake in northern Wisconsin for my 16. What are the rails that run lengthwise? Where did you get them? They look like they're probably aluminum. Any info/details you can share are very much appreciated. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:00 pm 
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yes the rails are aluminum C channel, it got them from a dock company as scrap for $20 a piece, I think retail would be considerably more $$. using the aluminum c channel and some Hebert dock brackets, i just built a square frame. the hebert brackets also hold the galvanized pipe and make it easy to adjust the height of the dock so they serve two purposes. (you sledge hammer the pipe into the lake bed as deep as they will go). the cross members were originally jsut 2x6 pressure treated lumber, but they had too much flex, so i doubled them up. i would use 4 x 6 pressure treated if I did it again. i cut the side stops from pressure treated as well, then wrapped the ends with some trailer carpet from Cabelas. originally i thought i might need trailer wheels for hauling it up the ramp, but you definitely do not need wheels if you have the slope of the ramp. I attached a trailer winch to a tree on shore and use that to haul it up the ramp. you could also just use a pulley system with mechanical advantage like a 4:1 or so and you could just pull it up the ramp from standing in the water. I went with the winch because I had one lying around. I added a cat walk up the middle of the ramp for pushing it down and walking along with it and jumping on the tramp. I dont even need to get wet when launching. be carefull to have the rudders raised if you dont have deep water at he end of the ramp as the boat drops in at a steep angle and the rudders would not do well if they bottomed out going backwards.
I plan to just leave it in the water for winter. I'll tie a rope to it so the ice doesnt pull it away, but I think it will be fine being so close to shore.
All in, the rails were $60 for three, cost of lumber around $50 for 5 2x6's. , the four Hebert brackets were around $30 each for $120, the pipe was scrap that the i got for free, around $50 for all the fasteners, $20 for carpet.

I couldnt be happier with it, it worked out great. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions. PM me if you want since i'm on vacation at the cabin this week and have limited access to computer.

Mike.


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 3:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 3:42 pm
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responding to speed633 -
Post subject: Re: boat lift or dock for hobie
Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:50 am and Picture Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 4:19 pm

Hello,
Joe, Do you happen to have any information how you built the bow wood hoists. I am interested in building something similar for my boat. Thanks!
Keith


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 3:42 pm
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Hello,
Does anyone happen to have any information how you built the bow wood hoists. I am interested in building something similar for my boat. Thanks!



speed633 wrote:
I just built a wood hoist out of pressure treated wood. It works great on both my H18 and H16. The shallow side is a fixed 'shelf' that I lift one end of the boat onto. On the deep side I use a 6-1 pulley system attached to a 2"x6"x10' to raise the other end out of the water.

Tips for building wood hoists
Wood swells when wet, allow adequate tolerances between moving wood parts.

Make sure you can drain the hulls. This means that your hoist needs to be able to lift the front way out of the water while slightly elevating the rear.

Hardness wins, countersink hardware so that your boat only hits wood. Done right a wood hoist will be better for your boat than a 2,000 dollar aluminium hoist.

-Joe


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