2002 Getaway Rudder Cam Problems

We purchased a used 2002 Getaway this year. Prior sailing was on a 14' Snark so this year will be mostly spent getting used to catameran sailing. The 14'r is now the red-headed stepchild to the new Getaway! This forum has been very helpful with several problems, i.e. stepping the mast, shoreline open water mooring, and most recently trouble tacking. Boy has that been a problem! All in all it's been a fun boat to sail.

On to my question/problem. I have been having difficulty with properly setting the rudders into the locking position. At our end of the lake we have to walk the boat out about 200 feet from shore before the rudders have enough clearance to be locked into place. With the main and jib flopping in the wind and one or two people holding the boat I, or someone else painfully tries to lock the rudders. Finally after sucessfully getting them "locked" we take off only to have one of the rudders break out of the locked position. On several occasions I have had to lay on the back of the hull and futs with getting the rudder locked back in place.

What should be the course of action concerning this problem? Do the cams get worn over the years and need to be replaced? I had thought of replacing the whole rudder system with the newer style (2008) but don't know if older boats can be retrofitted, plus it might be cost prohibited to do that.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Have you tried adjusting the cam plate back? Mine is 1/2" but impossible to get a socket on it. I use an end wrench and pliers. Of course this would make the break away easier. Are you hitting bottom?

listed in the FAQ's section by MMiller
http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=467

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Brad Stephens
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Use a 1/4" drive deep well 1/2" socket.

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Thanks for the advice. A local hobie dealer also confirmed the adjustment solution. Hopefully this will be an easy fix and take care of the problem.

I've read the posting and FAQ, but have two questions:
1. How easily should the cams move? I think mine are too stiff.
2. Is there a picture showing up vs down positions? I read the manual, but am not sure which position is which.

Thanks

Jeff

The cam has an indentation for the plunger for the locked position. That should be visable when un-locked.

The cam structure has a "hook" that rotates over the upper casting pin/plate when locked. That "hook" points up when unlocked.

The cams should move when depressed by a finger, but should resist due to the plunger spring tension. Be sure the plunger to cam surfaces is lubricated. A dry cam will be nearly impossible to unlock and can damage the cam.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks - that's very helpful. My cam's indentation is currently horizontal so it's in the locked position?

I'll lubricate it. I thought I needed to move the upper plate, but what you suggested makes more sense.

Thanks - this advice is VERY helpful.

Jeff

The indentation engages with the plunger when locked, so it would be straight down, not visable, when locked. Sounds open. If you can get the cam to move at all by pressing with your finger... it is not locked. When locked, it takes a lot of force to open.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Well, taking the rudder assembly off of the hull proved very beneficial for a dry land self demonstration. Not only did I get to see how the rudder cam should be positoioned as the upper casting is lowered onto the cam plate, but I was able to look at the whole rudder cam mechanism and closely inspect each part.

The cams do show some signs of wear and a slight crack on the underside of the cam finger. But the biggest discovery and a very HUGE AAH-HAA moment (and which explains why the rudder was always popping out of the locked position) was the fact that the plunger spring and tensioning screw were missing!! The cam was basically free spinning and when in the locked position had no upward tension on it to keep it from rotating out of the locked position.

A call to my local Hobie dealer (and a look at the parts catalog) showed that I could purchase a cam replacement kit as well as replacement springs and tensioner screws.

This should be a simple replacement/fix and I think will solve all my problems.