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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 9:59 am
Posts: 278
Location: Mill Creek, WA
mmiller wrote:
I have created a traveler kit for the Club Wave. Using a traveler on the main sheet can allow much better control in higher winds. Less pitch pole issues too!

The kit is now in our system, but this is the first reference to it. Dealers are not yet informed.

Part number is 39250000 $198.95

H16 deep profile track, car (111) and swivel cleat.



Matt,
Will this be allowed in Class Racing?


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 Post subject: Class legal?
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:37 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
1st, the Wave was never intended as a class racing boat, so Hobie Cat may make revisions and changes we feel are beneficial.

Is a traveler going to be class legal? That is for the class to decide.

This will not become a standard feature on the Wave though. The complexity of handling a traveler defeats the pure simpleness of the Wave design.

From day one I have recognized that a traveler can help this boat in demanding conditions... that is why I put the kit together.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 9:27 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2005 9:06 am
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Location: ithaca new york
i am wondering if there is a reason it cant be installed on the classic version


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 Post subject: Classic?
PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 2:49 pm 
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The Classic or SE model has velcro straps that loop around the rear crossbar. If you changed the rear lace set up, you could use the traveler. Possibly use the lacing buttons that are used on the 20, Tiger and 21 Sport cruiser, but the current velcro webbing is in the way of mounting and using the track.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:51 pm 
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Matt

I have finally gotten around to installing my traveller kit. I successfully removed the old eye strap and pop riveted the plastic swivel bracket into place. I have run into problems, however, with the instructions.

Step 3 says to use the plastic swivel bracket as a guide and drill two holes using an 11/64 drill bit. Given that the bracket was pop rivetted into place and impossible to swing out of the way, I took the instructions literally and drilled through the plastic bracket with the drill size indicated in the instructions. The resultant hole is to large for the screws.

I have tried to replace the #8 screws with #10 but am not satisfied with the tightness achieved on one of the screws. Any chance Hobie will send me a replacement part?


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 Post subject: Screw
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 12:46 pm 
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As per standard drill charts the drill for the #8 is shown correctly. What part do you need as a replacement? The bit should have been smaller that the diameter of the screw threads and that is smaller than the plastic hole in the mount plate. Am I missing something?

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 4:13 pm 
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I double checked the drill bit that I used and it is indeed the 11/64 as called out by the instruction. The #8 screw slides all the way in without torqueing.

A search for the definition of a #8 screw indicates that the shank diameter is 11/64. The shank diameter is the outer radius of the thread. I think your table was telling you the diameter for a #8 bolt rather than a #8 sheet metal screw.

I had assumed on first glance that the only part needed to be replaced was the plastic swivel mount pad. Looking at it again, the only thing holding it to the crossbar in this case would be the single rivet through the thin plastic portion of this pad. Given the intention was to drill the aluminum cross bar, would simply screwing into the plastic with no structural attachment be sufficient?


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 Post subject: Drill Size
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:36 pm 
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I just had the screw size reviewed. Looks like the 11/64 is a tad big as you have discovered. A #8 sheet metal screw would use #29 or approx 1/8 Bit. As I recall, that has to be wallowed out a bit.

What to do now? I suggest moving the cleat slightly would be a solution. Let me know. Perhaps I can do a cross bar for you.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:05 pm 
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Location: Seattle
Hey Old School 18 if you live in Millcreek we must be neighbors I live near Thrashers Corner. It sounds like you have a Wave with the traveler I'd like to check that out maybe go sailing some time. I keep my boat at Sail Sand Point I know someone else that has one too and sail with him sometimes also. If you are interested let me know.
Mark


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 3:38 pm 
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Location: Port Madison, WA
Would it be possible to mount the traveler on a piece of hardwood, and then cut out notches for the velco? Not knowing how many attach points are on the traveler, the SS pop rivets could go through the wood and affix to the rear cross beam.
Second question is about increasing the size of the mainsail. Ever hear of any company making a larger mainsail for the Wave? Light winds are frequent on Puget Sound, and I would like to have 2 mains.

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 8:32 pm 
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Location: Seattle
I thought about having a bIgger main made also. There is a Halsey Lidgard loft in Fremont I beleive they own Calvert Iv'e bought a Wave sail there before. It seems a little obcessive to keep buying stuff for this boat but it is fun. I guess a little taller stick is possable also 3' maybe.
I sail at Sail Sand Point I weigh 180 and little more power to weather would be nice I have a hooter and its alot of off wind power but to weather no go.
Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 5:45 am 
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Thanks Matt for your help. I ended up using 1" long #8 screws rather then the 3/4" supplied as it still did not seem that the 3/4 caught much of the crossbar.

Another observation, the pop rivets didn't quite go flush on the bottom of the track. The traveller hits each rivet and then rides over them. I am not familiar with the intended operation but I suspect this will not be a problem, I won't know until I try it two weeks from now.

The instructions also suggest rivets every third hole in the track but then instruct you to install any extras. There were enough rivets supplied to fill every hole initially, but because I had to drill out the rivet holding the plastic swivel bracket, I was short one. Because of the slight interference, I decided to install rivets in every other hole, with the exception of the two in the middle. This resulted in 6 unfilled holes. I can't imagine that there should be any strength issues.


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 Post subject: Rivet heads touching?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:23 am 
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Rivet heads touching?

Perhaps your rivet gun did not fully seat the rivets. They should not touch the car. The rivet gun tip needs to hold the head down while pulling the rivets. Perhaps the neck was touching the track opening and holding it up a little.

For others doing rivets...using a small washer on top of a rivet to "extend" the reach of the gun can help.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 2:36 pm 
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I noticed that tip of the gun was not touching on the first rivet. I actually modified the pop rivet gun tip to get inside the track by grinding a little off the sides of the tip. Still no good. Another thing I tried was using a nut as big as the rivet head, similar to your washer suggestion, but that didn't help either. I figured I would try the track as it is and if it is a nuisance, perhaps drill out the rivets and try again....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:41 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Use a 1/4" punch to peen over the edges of the rivets - as long as the traveller doesn't catch an edge, the bottom will eventually wear down to the point it works smoothly.


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