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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:57 am
Posts: 47
Hi all, I just had a jib kit installed on my Hobie Wave, and took it out for a first sail (in 20-30 knots). It's too early to say whether it improves speed (I spent the whole time trying to keep the boat upright!). I have to say that I wasn't all that impressed though. Why?
- it came with a captive pin D shackle on the end of the halyard, but the shackle was too small to fit over the head of the sail and into the clew. I had to attach a second shackle before I could haul the jib up
- the lff of the sail is attached at only two points: one hank near the top, and a hook that attaches at the tack. The result is that under pressure, the luff of the sail goes way out of shape. Why couldn't Hobie have fitted a few more hanks along the luff?
- the fairlead for the jib sheet is installed about half way back along the tramp, between the tramp and the hull. I've only taken the boat out once since this was fitted, but because of the positioning of the fairlead, I can't see how you could sheet the jib in appropriately, unless you're on a fine reach.

Has anyone else installed a jib on their Wave, and if so, how have you found it? Any tips for addressing these problems?

thanks,
stuart

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stuart
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2011 Hobie Wave with jib kit & mainsheet traveller


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 1:19 am 
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Update: I've figured out a few things that will improve jib sail shape. Would be interested to hear if others have done the same, or have other suggestions.
(1) a continuous red line serves as a jib sheet , running from one fairlead and cam cleat through the clew of the sail, and back to the other fairlead/cam cleat. I tied a knot at the clew and it dramatically improves sail shape, and helps pull the foot of the sail down. Still not great, but much better.
(2) the hook that attaches the tack of the jib to the aluminium crossbar is too long, making it impossible to properly tension the luff of the jib. I'm thinking of shortening it in some way. Any suggestions?
(3) it would be relatively easy to add a few more hanks to the luff of the jib, and an eyelet near the tack to allow for a downhaul, which would also improve sail shape. Has anyone else done this?
(4) it wouldn't be all that hard to add additional fairleads on a traveller on the forward crossbeam, like you would have on a Hobie 16. This would also improve sail shape. Has anyone done this?

Apologies for my obsession with the jib, just seems that you could get much more out of it with a few simple mods. Some of which should have been part of the standard Hobie kit, IMHO.

stuart

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stuart
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2011 Hobie Wave with jib kit & mainsheet traveller


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 11:06 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:51 am
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I bought the jib kit but I am baffled by the instructions in a couple of spots. Please clarify -- by the way, the instructions could use some pictures and a few more words.

problem one - where exactly do the cams go? Do they go in the center or toward the rear? Does the plate face inward over the tramp or outward on top of the hull? Would putting them aft make for better performance?

halyard: it says "Run halyard through halyard block and tie off ends at lower cleat. Install halyard shackle. Step mast."
halyard ends get tied together? install halyard shackle where exactly? Just tied the end of the halyard to the shackle somehow?

the jib sheet in one big loop makes no sense. Why not knot it at the jib and leave the two ends loose on either side like every other sailboat in the world?


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2016 8:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:18 am
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Location: San Mateo, CA
On the outside of the hulls you will see two plugs the cover bolt holes; the same bolt holes exist on the inside of the hull and this is where you mount the plates for the cleats. If you have tramp tracks then you will find two 1/4-20 bolts already in the holes. Remove the bolts and loosen a few screws on either side of the mounting holes so you can slip the cleat plate behind the track. Be careful not to entirely remove the track screws as they can be a pain to reinstall. If i recall correctly the screws are several inches long.
The plate faced toward the center of the boat over the tramp.

I dont tie the halyard ends together, but its a good idea to secure them to the cleat so they dont get blown out of arms reach when you step the mast.

Jib sheet loop: Sure, you can tie the center of the sheet to the clew on the jib, but be sure to put a stopper knot in the end of the rope or you will loose it through the cleat when you tack and release the sheet. You may also be chasing the jib ends all over the tramp if you dont run it in a loop. I changed to a 2:1 jib sheet set up, so it's always mounted on my boat and runs in a loop.

I also added 3 extra hanks to the jib. This will help the sail keep its shape and in my opinion is 100% necessary.

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 8:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:51 am
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Thanks. Very helpful.

The jib kit comes with a set of screws for the cams - I wondered if those are longer than what's on the boat from the factory because I need the longer screws, or if they are just extras. Guess I will find out soon enough.

The tramp rail is glued on to the hull with clear caulk or glue, so I assume I will need to pry it loose and then re-glue/re-caulk it afterward.

Also, I found I didn't need to spread the hulls to put on the spreader bar like it shows in the instruction page - I just mounted one tab on one side, then stuck on the bar, then stuck the other end of the bar on the other tab and screwed down the whole thing tight.

On the halyard, I found a photo online that seems to say put the cleat on one end of the halyard and tie it off with a bowline hitch, then tie off the other end of the halyard at the mast. Maybe this is all totally obvious to others, but I would have liked the instructions to be much more specific than the one pager that comes in the kit.

I will definitely get more hanks. Thanks again.


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