Ive read about the problematic process of riveting the traveler to the cross bar due to clearance issues.
ive seen someone make refrence to a cheap rivet gun from sears that they filed the sides down on to do the job with, they posted pics but the links are all dead now.
Anyone have a picture of this rivet gun? Sears sells a dozen or so, my kit will be here Friday so I want to get everything rounded up.
Some points: 1. If the dealer can do this job for you, I'd let him. 2. If you're going to DIY, you may want a heavier gun for future use for heavier rivets. The rivets for this job are light and a light rivet gun is just marginal. I was too cheap to buy the big momma. (These are right rivets for this traveler.) 3. Practice riveting two pieces of same-thickness scrap metal first. You can get similar rivets at hardware store and not use rivets in the kit for practice. 4. Here's mention of a spacer and rivet gun from Murrays:
Quote:
JJ,
I found out a little more about a better Hand Riveter from Doug Murray from Murrays Catalogue who said he uses a 3/32" or 1/8" (that's the size of the middle hole) Stop Sleeve (that's about 1/4" deep) to act as a spacer.
He uses a much better Riveter than the $9.95 Sears Riveter. The one he uses is called a Marson 39000 HP2 Professional Hand Riveter (Regular from $48.00 and up... but available from some online stores at $25.00... he matched the lowest price for me...).
This one is designed to pull up to 3/16" stainless steel rivets, and unlike the $9.95 Sears version (that's only good for aluminum rivets), has no problem with not being able to grip the shaft properly -- even after giving up about 1/4" to the spacer... so no need to file down the tip to get into the trak. And the inside mechanism makes it a lot easier to POP, even tho you still need to pull hard.
He has another one that is pretty heavy-duty with longer arms that makes things a lot easier... but that's $90+ and is only required if one intends to POP many many rivets at a time.
I'm guessing that didn't result in a clean cut and you filed down the excess rivet?
Nope, it came out clean like in the last pic. The spacer holds the rivet down, also.
I re-quote the quote. Read the thread under the link too...
Quote:
Quote: JJ,
I found out a little more about a better Hand Riveter from Doug Murray from Murrays Catalogue who said he uses a 3/32" or 1/8" (that's the size of the middle hole) Stop Sleeve (that's about 1/4" deep) to act as a spacer.
He uses a much better Riveter than the $9.95 Sears Riveter. The one he uses is called a Marson 39000 HP2 Professional Hand Riveter (Regular from $48.00 and up... but available from some online stores at $25.00... he matched the lowest price for me...).
This one is designed to pull up to 3/16" stainless steel rivets, and unlike the $9.95 Sears version (that's only good for aluminum rivets), has no problem with not being able to grip the shaft properly -- even after giving up about 1/4" to the spacer... so no need to file down the tip to get into the trak. And the inside mechanism makes it a lot easier to POP, even tho you still need to pull hard.
He has another one that is pretty heavy-duty with longer arms that makes things a lot easier... but that's $90+ and is only required if one intends to POP many many rivets at a time.
Read here down the page: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=9323&hilit=traveler&start=30
No shame in letting a dealer do this, I say. Discretion is the better part of valor, as they say.
_________________ Wave FX-1 Do you want me to tell you for the 1,000,001 time! The Wave...
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum
Login
Register
FAQ
Search
