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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:27 am 
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How often do cables need to be changed? I'm inclined to change them annually as the boat is kept on a beach and I do some heavy wind sailing miles off from shore. I'm not necessarily looking to save money as safety is the primary concern but a new set of cables at my local dealer is 180.00 for a set. Seems a bit steep.

Are the cables that Hobie provides much better/stronger than what I might be able to purchase elsewhere? Can anyone recommend anyone who might carry a set that is just as good as the ones's that Hobie carry's but not so pricey?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:37 am 
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Annual replacement seems excessive, but mast up storage and heavy use would fatigue wires more quickly. Shrouds are the primary wires to look at failure. Forestays and bridles not as much.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:00 pm 
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My forestay snapped in half on the weekend, so if you are going to replace shrouds, I would replace everything. I think that I am going to use non coated wire for my replacement so that I can inspect for damage. Matt, is there any particular reason that Hobie use coated wire? Protection of sail from rubbing on shrouds when fully sheeted out, perhaps?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:25 am 
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Sails wear badly on bare shroud wires and they also collect a lot of dirt that deposits onto the sail. Coated wires have been standard since the late 70's or early 80's.

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Matt Miller
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 12:49 pm 
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Thanks, Matt. I haven't checked (because I can't put my mast up until I get new cables), but wouldn't an appropriately placed stop knot in the main sheet stop the sail reaching the shrouds when on a dead run?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 4:11 pm 
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There is a lot of twist in the sail, so it will rub the lee side a bit even when sheeted. Any limited sheet position risks capsize if you can't sheet out far enough.

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Matt Miller
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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 4:31 pm 
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Thanks again, Matt. Coated seems like the way to go.

Just one more thing to confirm: generally, all standing rigging tension should be firm, with no slop, but not so tight that it twangs, right? I think that I have seen your response on this before but I can't find it.

Really appreciate your advice,
Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 1:22 am 
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mmiller wrote:
Shrouds are the primary wires to look at failure. Forestays and bridles not as much.


I would expect that the failure begins at the end of wire where the eye is formed. Here should be the highest mechanical stress on the wire because of relatively small bending radius. And this part is not coated so you can inspect it easily. Or maybe I am wrong and there is no special rule where the wire starts to break?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 4:50 pm 
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I had a side shroud break on a H-17 that I purchased used. It had been raced hard, but the seller said he had "recently" replaced the shrouds and forestay. They were coated, looked like Hobie gear.
The side shroud broke about 1/3 of the way up. Before it broke, I didn't see any kinks or broken strands, but they were coated so it wouldn't have been obvious. Afterwards, there were of course broken strands but no cuts or visible corrosion. I think it must have been kinked badly and then straightened out. The boat had other problems that had been concealed too.
We were sailing in a fresh breeze, not a heavy wind.

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Yet another Bob!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:59 am 
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Off topic heads up here. Hobie Wave racing is heating up in the desert SW. see hobiedivision2.com for schedule.


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