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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 6:48 pm 
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It would be nice also if anyone can post a copy of the instruction manual that normally comes with the Traveller Kit... in .pdf format.

TIA


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:12 am 
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Location: Alberta, CAN
wannahobie wrote:
On another note, does the traveller kit come with a longer mainsheet? It would seem the stock 36' sheet might be a little short w/ a traveller? I ask, since I plan on upgrading the mainsheet to something other than the cheap fuzzy dacron line the Wave came with.


Wannahobie, what size and type of line are you planning to buy? I don't know if we'll need a longer line and would be nice to hear from the pros... but I felt the mainsheet is already long enough at 36'... I see the Hobie 16 has 42' but then I think the use 8:1 or 10:1 blocks so they would need a longer line.

But first I really need to wrap my head around HOW TO rig a traveller and mainsheet together once I install this baby.. I hear some are recommending proper stop-knots to prevent the car from hitting the ends in a violent jibe...

Anyone has a good detailed picture or steps for all this?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:28 am 
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I'd try it first without changing the mainsheet length. If you need more, you can tie a short piece of line to the end of your existing mainsheet, what about 5 - 6 foot max? That's the easy/inexpensive way to take care of that.

Your traveller line will dead end (figure eight knot) at the half strap on the rear of the crossbar (put the knot towards the back of the boat) line then runs through rollers of car and back through the fairlead and jaws of the swivel cleat. Then "attach" the traveller line to the tail of your main sheet. Make sure line is long enough to tie stopper knot and allow traveller to move all the way to the end of the track. OR, you can thread your mainsheet only through as described, just in reverse order.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 3:51 pm 
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There is no real need for the "stopper" knot on the traveler line on the Wave. With a small sail and no boom, the loads generated by even a violent jibe are no where near that of a Hobie 16 or 17. If you feel better about not hitting the hull which acts as the end of the track, tie a figure eight in the line prior to feeding it though the traveler cleat. This knot is then adjusted to have it hit the cleat prior to the traveler hitting the track end (hull on this boat). This transfers the load to the traveler cleat rather than the traveler car.

The supplied mainsheet is plently long enough so you do not need a seperate line. The only reason for a seperate line would be a different color for identification when looking at a pile of line on the deck.

The fuzzy "cheap" line that comes with the boat is also better than you need. It is easy on the hands and runs through the blocks just fine. It is really the best stuff for this boat. If you are "High tech", buy an "A" class catamaran. You can tweek it forever and not be done. Nice boats, but not exactly in the same catagory.

By the way, I have sailed both, and the Wave still has a great place in the quiver of boats.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:57 pm 
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Hammond wrote:
...The fuzzy "cheap" line that comes with the boat is also better than you need. It is easy on the hands and runs through the blocks just fine. It is really the best stuff for this boat...
I guess I call it cheap as mine came out of the box brand new w/ a couple pulls and snags built in! I am considering going to a 7mm Miliofi Swiftcord or 6mm Salsa. I have heard alot of good about both. A cheap upgrade, really. The smaller diameter line will run thru my block combo easier I think. (I have stock lower fiddle and a carbo ratchet double upper).

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2007 Hobie Wave


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 10:38 pm 
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I have salsa for jib sheets on my 20. I had similar light line with similar soft/flex for the mainsheet. It was really hard to uncleat as there was not enough stiffness or rigidity to whip and uncleat the 8-1 main in a really hard blow. I capsized at the nationals a year ago in Alameda because of this "high tech" line (big jibe, flying on one tack jibed and capsized on the new tack because I couldn't get it to uncleat). I have since sized up and gone back to the "polished" line that needs to be washed and used before it doesn't slip through your hands. The ability to uncleat quickly/reliably out weighs weight savings and free running through the blocks. When your line will not run free, wash in in the washing machine and/or replace it. I have tried many lines over the years. The old standards still work best for all around reasons.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 9:53 pm 
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@ DHT

There you go! Nice catch on the Murrays.

I figured there were tools made for the job. Out of curiosity, I'd like to see a pic of that spacer.

However, I hope that I won't be doing any in-the-track pop riveting for about five or six years!

The rest of the instructions on the traveler kit I considered clear. (There was an extra plate in the traveler kit that is not used, though.)

@ Hammond

If you pass back this way, please repeat what you said to make sure I read that right!

I got the salsa 6mm especially for the ability to uncleat the traveler fast when I got caught in a blow so that I wouldn't flip the boat just as you describe. OY!

From your post that looks like a wrong assumption on my part.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 7:54 am 
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Location: Alberta, CAN
Thanks JJ,

The spacer (called Stop Sleeve w/part number 02-1031) has no picture in Murray's catalogue... but I found one on CatSailor's online store with the same part number and a picture which is unfortunately pretty small and hard to see. It is basically a small cylinder (1/4" high) with a hole in the middle w/ 3/32" diameter. They also have one w/ 1/8" diameter. These sleeves are normally used at the end of steel cables when making loops, etc.

http://store.catsailor.com/pc/viewPrd.a ... oduct=9722

Re: Traveller Manual
I guess, no one so far has offered to post this manual, but luckily I went back and closely examined the first picture posted on this thread and I now have a better idea how the line is set up, even tho it's not shown that the line is one piece -- going from the mainsheet to the traveller.


Last edited by DHT on Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:50 am 
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DHT wrote:
...Re: Traveller Manual
I guess, no one so far has offered to post this manual, but luckily I went back and closely examined the first picture posted on this thread and I now have a better idea how the line is set up, even tho it's not shown that the line is one piece -- going from the mainsheet to the traveller.
It may not be available in pdf as some of the other manuals are. It is probably a single page printed thing in the kit.
Overall it does appear very simple to install, once you get past the rivet in track issue. Very little hardware, the loop,which may well be the existing one repositioned (riveted) to the rear of the crossbar, and the mounting pad/swilvel cam cleat. Apparently the existing sheet is long enough to run back ito the swivel cleat, thru traveller car, terminating at the repositioned loop.

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Jim

2007 Hobie Wave


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:21 pm 
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Location: Alberta, CAN
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Tchairdji ... 7952903154

Operation of the Traveller: Mainsheet is attached to a CAR that can slide freely inside a TRACK... Control how far the CAR travels by pulling the lower line and use CLEAT #2 to stop further movement out (Ultimately you can pull line as far as possible to lock CAR in the center of Crossbar).

Control Mainsheet using Cleat #1 as usual.


Last edited by DHT on Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:29 pm 
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http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Tchairdji ... 5860613474

Traveller Setup: Thread the end of the MAINSHEET through the Jaws of the Swivel Cleat (#2) and back through the fairlead... then run it through the roller of the CAR (front to back), and then through the fixed Half Strap attached at the center and rear of the Crossbar (again front to back). Put a Fugure 8 knot to act as a stopper.

An optional knot can be put where indicated to act as a stopper, so the CAR doesn't hit the hulls inadvertantly.

(Original Photo Compliments to Brad at SunJammer.)


Last edited by DHT on Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:42 pm 
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The Salsa line on my Hobie 20 jib sheet is working fine. When I used one of the "high tech" lite weight lines on the Mainsheet, the line was too flexible and didn't have enough weight to whip it out of the cleat when sheeted hard in a blow. New and improved doesn't alway equate to better in real world use.

One more note on the traveler. It allows you to sail upwind backwards. start head to wind, pull the traveler to the new windward hull. When the boat starts to back up, you will need to hold the traveler to weather sheeted in. steer backwards to allow the now backing boat to spin the back towards the wind and there you are, sailing backwards up wind. Careful, as you let go of the traveler, the boat will stop and start going forward down wind in the opposite direction. It's kind of like sailing with a windsurfer with the sail backwards. If you need more of a picture, I'll post it on youtube.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:15 am 
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Hammond wrote:
with a windsurfer with the sail backwards. If you need more of a picture, I'll post it on youtube.


I'd like to see that!

-Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:31 pm 
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DHT wrote:
It would be nice also if anyone can post a copy of the instruction manual that normally comes with the Traveller Kit... in .pdf format.

TIA
I got my traveller kit today. Here are the scanned instructions: (sorry, not pdf) Image

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Jim

2007 Hobie Wave


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 5:17 pm 
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Location: Alberta, CAN
YEY.... CONGRATULATIONS Wannahobie.... at last you got it. Well I hope you enjoy the last few weeks of the Summer... I am hoping to get back down to Mexico one more time before it cools off too much. I love it when the Sea is realy hot!! We've got the Kit now we need to install it whenver we get there....


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