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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2010 12:08 pm
Posts: 4
Hi,

I am starting to think about a few modifications for a revo I just pruchased and would appreciate any help.

I was wondering if anybody has tried to use threaded plug ins used for pad eyes etc for any thing else. I was considering trying to use two of the stern plug ins behind the seat to install a bar ( much like the cross bar for a sidekick) or a slide track on which I could mount rod holders or a sun shade. If the threads match use some pipe or a pipe nipple to fashion a cross bar. My guess is that I would be inviting structual trouble--but wanted to see if anybody has tried this...

Also, I haven't had many opportunities to use the revo yet but the few times I have, I found the molded carry handles mid boat to be inferior to bolted on carry handles. Any advise on adding cary mid boat carry handles?

best and thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
Posts: 1986
Location: High Point, NC
That plastic is pretty tough - wood or sheet metal screws fasten very solidly in it. However, you have to consider which direction any load on the fastener is coming from.

For directing a trolly or anchor line across a surface, a common blind wood screw or even the rubber swell plugs you mention will likely suffice. But any time I expect to have a load pulling outwards on the fastener, I greatly prefer a machine screw with locknut on the backside.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:09 pm
Posts: 165
Location: Sayville, NY
I've always rigged using s/s machine screws, fender washers and nylock nuts, found this way to be the strongest, especially for rod holders and handles. I would not use the plastic threads for anything more than their intended use.

As for midship handles, I've added one on cross member behind seat and in front of center hatch. This makes for easy lifting of the Revo as it balances the weight well.

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Proud member Kayak Fishing Association of New York
Supporting member NEKF, Supporting member Team Jinx
KW's KFA Team 3


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:40 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Orange Beach, AL
How did you attach the handle to the crossmember. I want to attach one with bolts and nuts but I can't seem to get to inside far enough to get nut started. Would you have a picture by chance?

Duncan


bjb wrote:
I've always rigged using s/s machine screws, fender washers and nylock nuts, found this way to be the strongest, especially for rod holders and handles. I would not use the plastic threads for anything more than their intended use.

As for midship handles, I've added one on cross member behind seat and in front of center hatch. This makes for easy lifting of the Revo as it balances the weight well.

_________________
Duncan


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:09 pm
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Location: Sayville, NY
Best to lay kayak on it's side and reach in thru center hatch to attach nuts. It's a bit of a stretch, but doable.

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Bob
Proud member Kayak Fishing Association of New York
Supporting member NEKF, Supporting member Team Jinx
KW's KFA Team 3


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
Posts: 217
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Duncan49 wrote:
How did you attach the handle to the cross-member. I want to attach one with bolts and nuts but I can't seem to get to inside far enough to get nut started. Would you have a picture by chance?


Have a look at this:

http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=38113

I've since fitted (to a different Revo) slightly better handles which have two screws per side, like these:

Image

The seem very solid when securely screwed down and don't twist like the originals.

Cheers,

Mike.


Last edited by mingle on Fri Oct 14, 2011 6:04 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 5:34 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:40 pm
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Location: Orange Beach, AL
That is exactly what I want to do and that is the handle I have. But for the life of me I can't get my hand where I feel I can get a nut on the bolt. I'll have to find someone with longer thinner arms I guess.

Duncan49

mingle wrote:
Duncan49 wrote:
How did you attach the handle to the cross-member. I want to attach one with bolts and nuts but I can't seem to get to inside far enough to get nut started. Would you have a picture by chance?


Have a look at this:

http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php ... =revo+grab

I've since fitted (to a different Revo) slightly better handles which have two screw per side, like these:

Image

The seem very solid when securely screwed down and don't twist like the originals.

Cheers,

Mike.

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Duncan


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2387
Location: Escondido
Duncan49 wrote:
How did you attach the handle to the crossmember. I want to attach one with bolts and nuts but I can't seem to get to inside far enough to get nut started. Would you have a picture by chance?
Here's another link showing a couple of different applications, hardware etc. I've used the soft grips on most of the Hobie kayaks for almost 4 years and had no problem with the single machine screw style mounting with large flat washers, even on our tandems. Pg. 2 of the following link illustrates some "reaching" installation techniques for those of us who need all the arm length we can get!
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8813

You can also use the standard lift handles for additional grips or other gear by through-bolting metal padeyes at the desired location:
Image


guyonayak wrote:
I was wondering if anybody has tried to use threaded plug ins used for pad eyes etc for any thing else. I was considering trying to use two of the stern plug ins behind the seat to install a bar ( much like the cross bar for a sidekick) or a slide track on which I could mount rod holders or a sun shade. If the threads match use some pipe or a pipe nipple to fashion a cross bar. My guess is that I would be inviting structual trouble--but wanted to see if anybody has tried this...
As Tom suggested, the molded threads are not designed to support heavy or lifting loads. They can be converted for a variety of purposes though. Here's a link:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8922
8)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 12:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
Posts: 217
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Yep, the screw-ins are pretty strong, but aren't really intended massive loads.

Having said that I've been able to lift the entire kayak (Revo) using two of the shock-cord ends and 8mm bungee - more of a test than anything else. :-)

However, I usually go with stainless screws/nuts and nylon cutting-board for backing, which makes everything very secure.

For my Mirage drive leash, I use a shortish (about 1.8m) heavy-duty coiled paddle-leash attached to the hull via a screw-in pad-eye on the front left hand hatch bungee:

Image

Image

I found this a better solution than the Hobie offering - it's much shorter and doesn't get in the way, but it still allows full access to the drive (for any potential on-water maintenance) while seated.

Cheers,

Mike.


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