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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 7:59 pm 
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I failed! :( Up to and including baptizing a brand new trolling motor in the lake.

Sorry Tom, I let you down.

I made the mount for my outback and mounted a 30# Endura C2 to it. I made it out of 1 1/4" PVC.

Issue 1: The home depot conduit clamps I bought are crap. the motor yaws left to right with ease. I can try to tighten them up more, but I think I need a better solution because there were very tight before lake.

Issue 2: The motor rolls left to right. I had tightened those clamps up pretty tight on the PVC CAP, but I must have made the bolt holes a little too big. That combined with the yaw movement kicks the motor up and left making the tiller roll into my body (its mounted on left side of kayak.)

Issue 3: I wont tell you how the motor went into the water (too painful) but on that note, is there anything to be concern about with getting the motor head/controller wet? Thankfully it was not connected to the battery when this occurred. also, I glad I could grab it in time otherwise davey jones would be having himself a nice new motor!

NOTE: The aforementioned issues happened at speeds 3 and greater. Slow speed appeared to work ok aside from yaw issue.

Questions:

1.What specific clamps should I use to clamp motor?
2.use electrical tape to tighten up mount in hobie rod holder slot?
3.How far below the hull should I mount the motor?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 4:31 am 
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Location: High Point, NC
I covered these items in one of the YouTube videos I made, and also mentioned several times that the geometry of the tubes is very important in order for the mount to work properly.

I'll have to go into my channel and find the video that has the specifics. Will try to find that for you this afternoon.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:57 am 
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Here is the video that shows and explains the mount in detail:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNzLB8-ghvw

Now there are some things you're going to have to fiddle with and decide for yourself. There are minor differences between these plastic hulls so unless you make the adjustable model shown, you'll have to tune and tweak the unit to fit your particular hull.

I think I covered most of what you've asked in the video but if not, respond back and I'll do what I can to help.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:09 am 
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Thanks Tom!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 2:34 pm 
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Location: Knox County, TN
Image

Image

Image

I just went through the middle. Seems ok so far. I can release it, pull it out and swap it with my mirage drive quickly. Stows away in front hatch well without the liner. Pardon the mud.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 9:41 am 
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Very clever, and mud is good! :) What brand & thrust of motor? How did you mount the shaft to use the Mirage fittings?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 9:38 am 
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Location: Knox County, TN
I drilled a hole through the cassette, installed rubber grommets with marine goop, then I took the head off the trolling motor slid the shaft through a couple of times, made some jokes about it, then I wired a Minn Kota plug up, and finally put it all back together. Rewind, first I took it all apart, naval jellied it, sand, painted, and clear coated it.

Thrust I'm not sure of as it was given to me and had nothing indicating thrust on the motor.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:28 am 
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Awesome!

I would love to either buy one from you for a transducer for my Hobie Outback or have you post the plans with the correct geometry.
I would much rather buy one from you than have to go through the trial and error finding the correct geometry.
When you decide to sell them, I and probably a zillion kayak owners will be ready to buy!
Thanks for sharing a great idea.
I have no doubt someone will be trying to make these and sell them on ebay soon. I hope it is you!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:50 am 
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Just made my 1st attempt at this mount and guess I need to call it a failure.
without the motor on it felt solid pushing toward the rear but the slightest pressure pushing forward would make the whole thing turn and pull out from the rear side. I then decided to add a coupler to the front side between the T and the cap (to make it longer and not be able to shift) and add some tape around the cap to compensate for the curve in the hull.

That made it feel solid when pushing in both directions! But after putting the motor on it just seems to flex to much when pushing on the motor in either direction. Im using an endura 30 (older style) with the transom mount removed and shaft cut down to 18 inches.

Not sure if the motor is to heavy for this mount or not but with shaft cut down and transom mount removed it only weighs 10 pounds. Not sure how acurate that weight is tho cause i just used a bathroom scale. Is the 18 or 24 pound sevlor or watersnake that much lighter?? anyone have any pics comparing the endura 30 & 18 sevlor or water snake?

Im not giving up though and will make the next one with threaded couplings so it can adjust and find the correct angles.

Unfortunately dry fitting PVC before glueing is pretty much impossible unless someone knows something i dont know.

By the way, this going on a 2011 outback.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:49 am 
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Here's one I made... not quite as simple as Tom's but it won't come out!


http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=49489&p=222270&hilit=voila#p222270


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 9:56 am 
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Location: High Point, NC
If you get the angles and lengths correct the one I designed won't budge. But as I said, it needs to be very close to exact.

You can test fit PVC if you'll spend just a little time sanding out the fittings to the pipe pieces will slip in and slip out. It doesn't take much - just enough so that they won't jam solidly in place.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:22 am 
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My second attempt was much better and is rock solid. I used threaded schedule 80 Just like the one Tom shows in one of his videos. After I got it set I put an aluminum screw through the threaded section so it wont move. Figured that may also work as a shear pin if I hit something hard enough. I also went ahead and added screws to all the other joints for added strength just in case. Cant wait to give it a trial run.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:46 am 
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Fantastic. Just remember, if you do hit something, you'd prefer to have the mount break rather than the boat! The "shear pin" may be a good idea.

Report back on how it all works on the water. Sounds like you're in for a good time.


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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 9:14 pm 
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Just realised I never made a follow up post on my mount. Just copied this text from a post I made on snaggedline about it.


Took it out sunday for a test run and it worked perfectly. I never even had to remove it from the rod holder all day. In fact after putting my wheels under the outback (DIY scupper cart) I was able to put the motor in the rod holder before launching. The wheels keep the motor up high enough off the ground and i just wheeled the yak down into the water and pulled the wheels out and off i went.

The battery im using is a small U1 35 AH that weighs only 21 pounds. The trolling motor with cut down shaft and transom mount removed, with pvc mount only weighs 12 pounds so 33 pounds total weight. I noticed no difference with the added weight on the outback. I was worried about the motor hanging off the side making the yak lean so I placed the battery (in a U1 sized battery box) inside my crate to the opposite side as the motor and the yak was perfectly level sitting in the water.

Launched at mariner point around 1 pm and started heading all the way around to the quarry stopping along the way to toss some lures. Had pretty strong current against us all the way through the canals and the motor handled it very well. Even into the current and on speed 3 I was able to move along close to 2.5 mph SOG according to my gps. I tried 4th and 5th gear a few times but not very long cause I didnt want to kill the battery to quick. But going into 5th was like hitting a turbo charger. I was really surprised at the difference between 4th and 5th. All the other gears (1-4) was just a small increase in power but 5th really kicked in hard but the mount handled it fine.

Headed back to the quarry and trolled around awhile and then tossed some lures behind the island. Unfortunately the fish werent cooperating on our 1st trip of the year and we took a skunk. sun was starting to set and we headed back and this time we had a little current with us and i felt like i was flying even with the motor on 3. Was moving about 3.2 mph with alittle current and close to 4 mph in 4th gear. ran it in 5th a little more once getting close to the ramp but didnt want to drain the battery down to far on its 1st trip. We were out for 6 hours and There wasnt to much time that i wasnt running the motor. even while fishing i would have it in 1st gear to hold position in the current and manuevering into position.

I figured the 35ah battery had to be getting pretty low but when i tested it with the volt meter when i got home it was at 11.95 volts. Not exactly sure what that equates to in percentage of discharge but i believe a full charge is 12.7 and the battery is considered depleted at 10.7?? If thats correct I guess i was still at 60% charge?? If thats right i'm pretty impressed with those results.

I'll try to get some pics and maybe a video on my next outing. I think i'm going to enjoy haveing this trolling motor especially if i get caught in some strong currents and wind. I just have to get over my girl friend calling me a lazy SOB and shaking her head...lol. Shes actually a very good paddler and even with the motor going i have a hard time keeping up with her even when shes just liesurely paddling. I'd get behind and then start pedaling with the motor going to catch back up...lol. She's normally in her west marine Pompano 120 which is a pretty fast yak but I just bought a tapon 100 as a 2nd yak for quick easy trips and she was using that and shes pretty quick in that thing too. I've never been much into paddling (one of the reasons i bought the outback) but I took the tarpon out for a test run once we got back to the ramp and i think im gonna enjoy paddling that. It moves out pretty good. definately alot easier to paddle than the outback...lol.




Tom Im really glad you shared this idea and was real happy with the outcome on the outback. Unfortunately I was only able to use it once though. Just sold the outback and got a PA 12 this weekend. Trying to decide if I should modify my setup to fit the PA, make a new one or make something different to mount on the rear of the PA. I think a variable speed 40 might be a better choice for the PA.

Anyone in the Baltimore area want to buy a mount with endura 30 all setup and tested?? :)


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 7:29 pm 
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18-lb thrust Watersnake can't weigh more than about 4- to 5-lbs. It pushes my Revo-13 along at about 3 mph on low and about 4.5 + on high speed. Wind does make a difference, however.

FYI, Tom's motor mount is great but I have noticed that on the one I made, the conduit clamps became a bit loose, probably due to slightly large screw holes, allowing the motor to wiggle quite a bit... I made a small dam with tape around the PVC fitting and filled with JB Weld to cover the screw heads... now, they,re as tight as... well, you know...

Hope this helps someone...


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