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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:42 am 
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I recently purchased a 2014 Outback (my second Outback). I mounted Gear Tracs just forward of the rod holders. My intentions were to mount a fish finder and some rod holders on the tracs. Subsequently, I then ran the transducer wiring through the provided thru hull plugs. By using the provided hull plugs, I need 20 inches of transducer wiring (out from the plug) to reach my fish finder on the trac. I do not want 20 inches of wiring flopping around when my fish finder is not in use. In order to avoid the excessive wiring, it appears I have two options. The first option is to install another thru hull plug in the drive well. The second option is to install the fish finder on a Ram Mount next to the starboard carrying handle (as shown in "Hobie Outback 2014 SLH fitout" on YouTube). I am leaning towards the SLH version. Any opinions would be appreciated. :?:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 3:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:48 pm
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Location: Missoula, Montana
I have mounted a fish finder on a Scotty universal fish finder mount which is mounted on a gear track on my 13’ Revolution.

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The wires are attached pretty permanently to the base of the fish finder. To protect the base when I’m transporting my kayak, I’ve mounted a short piece of track inside the cockpit of my kayak, and I move the base down into the cockpit before I put my kayak on top of my vehicle.

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To protect the plugs in the fish finder’s base from road dirt and water, I put a nylon stuff sack over the base.

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The Hobie plugs for running wiring through the hull of a kayak work great. If you don't like the location of the plugs which came with your Outback, install a plug in a more convenient location.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 2:44 am 
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Ciao chiamo dall'Italie sul mio outback l'eco l'ho installato così:
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Last edited by Jbernier on Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
Fixed photo links to show properly


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 5:36 am 
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Another solution is to put some vaseline or silicone spray on the cables themselves and just push the cables back into the hull flush to the wire cap when not in use. No mods necessary.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:04 pm 
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I mounted the FF display on a RAM mount from the mast hole, transducer in the hull with electrical duct seal, battery inside hull, and simply string the wire through the front hatch. No holes drilled anywhere in the hull, and only enough wire outside the hull to reach the FF. When not in use, no wires visible.

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Magnolia Springs, AL
2014 Hobie PA12, 2015 Hobie PA 12, 2013 Outback and 2012 Revo11


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:26 am 
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Location: Maryland
I put an Elite-4 HDI in my 2014 Outback. I'm kind of a perfectionist (read: anal) when it comes to installing things. The RAM base was installed off center intentionally to give more room to tighten the tension nob/wingnut thing...that was difficult on my OCD, but it had to be done. :D

I got a RAM mount and put the base in the port (left) cup holder.

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Marked the first hole, and think about it for a little bit before the drilling the first hole.

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Got the hardware installed for the base. Used 1/4" stainless steel machine screws with blue locktite, of course that also meant enlarging the holes in the RAM base slightly.

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Had to steal the cable passthrough from the starboard side, ordered another one to replace the empty 1" hole on the nekid side. The cables are pretty stiff, but still allows the mount to be moved around and adjust the angles.

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Ready to go; installed the Hobie 12vdc battery holder to the sailing mast post in the front of the hull. I picked up a 7amp hour batter for $25 local. I can adjust the screen so it is pushed back away from the rudder handle. FWIW, the Hobie battery holder and hatch liner don't clear each other to be used together.

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With the head unit removed, the cables tuck into the cup holder and are clear of the top of the hull, so it will be flush for hauling upside down.

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Zip tied the excess transducer cable to the seat scupper tube. I used two zip ties for now, might put a couple more on later...because I figure, "If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing."

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Then coiled the NMEA cable up and secured it to the transducer cable.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:45 am 
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FWIW I copied Cowpokey's install and found it to be an excellent location. Put some sealant around the screws though, the cupholder retains a puddle of water after crashing through a wave or two and with three screws in there now, it could be a point of [slow] water entry.


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