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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:07 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:43 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Southern Arizona and Sonora
Hi Folks,

This is my first post but have lurked for a while.

I got to spend a few hours on the bay in my Revo and took it sailing. What a blast! I'm really quite a novice sailor and don't have the lingo down, so bear with me.

I have already installed a rear block (based on wingit's excellent post about improved rigging for the revo).

I have a couple of questions that I would appreciate your help with:

1. I want to purchase a longer mainsheet - what cordage do you recommend for that? I buy my stuff from West Marine, if that helps with recommendations.
2. We routinely get pretty windy in the afternoons so I do want to install a roller furling system like Stringy's simplified system which allows me to adjust the sail area - what west marine cordage would you recommend for that.

Thanks in advance!! I love this site!

P.S. I promise to get a copy of Royce before asking too many more questions. :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 130
Location: Seal Beach California
While I have bought way to much gear from West marine, I have found the prices on line from Annapolis Performance Sailing to be a bit better also in January they are having a 20% off sale. When I replaced the line on my wife's revolution I went to Maffioli New Swift and have been very happy but it probaly total over kill. For my AI I am going with Sampson Apex or Yale conception. Another couple of things I did on the Revo was add a block in front of me so I was pulling back at me and added a clam cleat for the main. I will get some pictures posted as soon as I am at home in the day light.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
I use a 3/16" polyester double braid from West Marine (by New England Ropes)-- slightly smaller and more flexible than the Hobie line, reasonably priced (especially on sale) and has a reasonable grip. Here's what it looks like (you can get different colors):
Image
This snaps on and off the sail and can double as an emergency tow line.

You should get more than you think you'll need -- can trim it later. You'll find lots of uses for the left overs. for instance, short (5') lengths for quick tethering of gear as necessary. Here's another piece used as a permanent loop for securing the sail when stowed:
Image
Also, if you adopt MRL's excellent rigging suggestion, you'll need more line. Shown here is a similar set up on an Oasis:
Image
(You probably would skip the cam cleat for the Revo unless also using the Sidekick for improved stability).

For your furler, you might look at 3/16" or 4mm line. Just guessing though as I don't furl the small sail. You need it to wrap nicely around the small mast yet be easy to grip.8)


Last edited by Roadrunner on Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:00 am 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 130
Location: Seal Beach California
Road runner thanks for posting the pictures my set up looks very similar to your except I use a clam not a clam cleat. I have been using 3/16 line on my furler with no problem. I am a bit suprised you use 3/8 " line for the main sheet I use a line which is between 3/16 and 1/4 of an inch but I do were gloves. I think the stock main sheet on the AI is only 1/4" are use using this or have you changed out to something bigger. I reccomended the single braids since they are lighter and do not absorb water. But at the end of the day are about $10.00 more exspensive. Thanks again for your posts and all the time you have spent helping us all out.
Mike


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
MRL, you are absolutely right -- I mis-stated the line size. I also use 3/16" and have corrected the post above.

I also double checked Hobie's factory issue line sizes -- 3/16 yacht braid for the small sail main, 1/4" AI mainsheet and 5mm AI furler. I'm no expert on lines and would defer to your recommendations as to quality and feel of the different materials. Thanks for the correction! 8)


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 Post subject: Thanks!!
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:43 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Southern Arizona and Sonora
Thanks so much! This is great information.

Could I bother one of you for a link to MRL's rigging scheme? I've run a search but can't seem to find it.

Again, thanks. I am making the order today.

Kinoyakker

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 130
Location: Seal Beach California
Kinoyakker I will try and take a few pictureds of my wifes boat this weekend and post it. You mentioned placing an order what did you decide on for line
MRL


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 130
Location: Seal Beach California
Ok here is my try at the pictures of my wifes revolution
The first picture showes an overview of how the boat is laid out
Image


Here is a detail of the mid block we use to reduce friction on the seat

Image

Next a detail of the forward turing block and cleat. Note the nylon washers being used to give the clam cleat a fairlead
Image

I also have routed the furler to the stardboard side to use the original mainsheet cleat for this application. Also visiable is the 2 to 1 adjustable downhaul mounted on the mast hope this helps.
Image

Mike[/img]


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 Post subject: Thanks so much
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:14 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:43 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Southern Arizona and Sonora
MLK and Roadrunner,

Thanks so much for your help and the pictures. I ended up going with the Sta-Set 1/4" line because it's easier to handle. I also bought some 30 series blocks, including a cheek block.

In terms of rigging the line, I was considering replacing the mesh pocket holder with a regular (about 1/2" thick) plastic cutting board. I would use the existing mesh pocket as a template to cut it to size (and drill the screw or bolt holes). This is a variation of wingit's cupholder design.

Interestingly, I've read Roadrunner's post about the revo's sailing characteristics as opposed to the adventure and the position of the sail. Strangely enough, in the 08 revo's, hobie has moved the aft handle padeye to the very back of the boat. This move is disappointing as, aside from losing the improved angle of the location of the mainsheet aft block, you also have the handle, mainsheet and block potentially snagging/snafuing with the rudder. Fortunately, that's a very easy fix given the location of the hatch.

Unfortunately, I won't be back at the beach for another 3 weeks so I won't be able to put all these great ideas into action.

Again, gents, thanks for the help!!

Kinoyakker

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Last edited by KINOYAKKER on Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 4:43 am
Posts: 130
Location: Seal Beach California
Given you have access I would through bolt a location were it sheets well and clears the ruddee. However, as allway I defer to RR on these matters.
MRL


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