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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 12:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:04 pm
Posts: 617
Location: Hawaii, Big Island
Choke

Great pics and design.

I'll ask you to go one step further as I'm trying to develop sailing as a means of trolling for pelagic fishes. Once the sail is furled can you figure out a way to rapidly collapse the mast forward?

Off Road says something like a folding beach umbrella

Another might be to have the mast cut at the base and held together by bunjie cord and your roller sleeve. Once the sail is furled maybe the roller is pushed up and the mast can be collapse.

Anyway great job.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 2:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 2:03 am
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Location: Port Stephens Australia
:) G'day from Aussie land Alohadan :

I don't know why you want to fold your mast down to the front ? Because it would stick out past the end of your Kayak. I prefer to lift it out with the sail rolled up. I think the mast needs to be in one piece--because there is a lot of pressure on it when sailing--if it had a weak spot, them you would need to have a fore stay and two side stays to hold the mast up. Then you would have 3 extra sheets (ropes) to worry about --- I have enough trouble with what I already have.
I troll with the sail up--but then again I haven't caught many fish either :(


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 4:02 am 
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Well you see your caught between the devil and some place else.

If you leave the mast up and the fish crosses your bow you have to physically pass the rod around the mast.

If you drop it you only need worry about getting the tip around the mast extending over the bow.

At this stage I don't know which is the worst problem. Stability from the new ama setup to move around a bit may provide a clue.

I do know you won't have much time with a 40 lb mahi on your line.

In both cases above you could potentially point the rod tip down and hope the yak spins around to where the fish is. Hopefully I'll get to see how that technique works ...SOON..:D

But it will be without the sail until I have landed a few.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 6:13 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, FL
Offroad,
Right on! It is pretty interesting to me that one could now use the BigA daggerboard as a center board on any of the Mirage drive yaks, including the BigA itself. Except that you then lose the ability to use the Mirage drive to help come about and get out of irons, something that I think is a pretty important plus of the Mirage Drive when sailing any of the Hobies. In an earlier post, however, on a different thread, draigue had mentioned sailing the BigA with the Mirage drive plug in, and using only the daggerboard, so it can be done successfully.

And Dan--that to me is one of the big advantages of the Mirage Drive system--you can use the rudder and the pedals to turn and follow your fish and keep it oriented to your yak to avoid the mast, outriggers, bow or what have you. BUT (and this is a big BUT), as you mentioned with a 40 lb mahi that is going crazy on the end of your line, and that is very fast-moving, the fish would probably be able to react and turn much more rapidly than we can, unless it was some distance away from the yak. But once you tire it out a bit and try to bring it alongside, as soon as it spots the boat it will probably be an entirely different story with a new close-in chase. But it sure will be exciting!!

But your question highlights for me one of the main reasons I have not yet tried to sail and fish on the same trip--just too much stuff on board that will get in the way of my rod tip and line, even with our somewhat puny fishes (usually) compared to the offshore bruisers that you might encounter. But keep us posted on how it all sorts out over there.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:46 pm 
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Great mods Arty (choke1) !

Is there an advantage to having a roller for the UNfurling over just unfurling pulling the mainsheet ?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 7:43 pm 
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Location: Hawaii, Big Island
Aloha Choke

I believe your right on the mast. Even without Sidekick have been able to dismount it.

But going back to your furling device.

I see how you did hold down the bungie cord to hold the sail down by attaching a hose clamp to permit the mast to rotate.

But how did you attach the rollers to the mast so they don't slip? Were your rollers rubber so the hole you drill was tight enough that they did not sli[, but loose enough to insert or is there some sort of internal pin you inserted?

I have a rubber trailer roller I bought about the same size as yours. Only using one to furl as unfurling will not be a speed op.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 4:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:16 pm
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Location: Spain, Benicasim
Hi guys,

I also made my own prototipe of daggerboard and rudder, "sock style".

I tried to preserve the versatile soul of my outfitter, so no need to use any tool to place them and really easy to mount dismount. The target was make them easy enought to allow change them while sailing.

Here´s the link if can help:

http://kite-kayaking-de-los-buenos.blogspot.com/

Regards,

Eliseo


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 6:24 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, FL
Hey Eliseo,
I think you guys may be the fiirst Hobie kayak cats to try the kite-sailing gambit. I like the aluminum Mirage drive and rudder socks--very clever--somewhat like what Punchinello developed for his Sport sailing some time back. Keep us posted on how it all works out.
Best,
Dick

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 2:44 am 
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Location: Port Stephens Australia
Is there an advantage to having a roller for the UNfurling over just unfurling pulling the mainsheet ?
----

Hi Fyr--and Alhoa Dan---Sorry about the delay in repling to your questions--but I have been in the bush for 3 months--

1st to FYR---The reasons for 2 rollers--I had trouble unfurling the sail by just pulling on the main sheet. The mast fits too tight.

--------------
2nd --to Alhoa Dan--The holes in the roller when I bought them were too small--so I drilled them out tomake them a tight fit and then used soap and water to push them on--so they fitted tight. I found that the ropes on the two rollers tend to get a bit tangled but now I can pull the sail in and out very quick. It is handy when the wind increases and you can reef it in and sail on a much smaller sail.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 4:55 pm 
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Ok, I get it. Not enough leverage just pulling the mainsheet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:19 pm 
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Location: Hawaii, Big Island
Thanks choke.

BTW when you reef in how much sail do you typically leave out with winds of 15 knots gusts to 20.

FYI I have Sidekick available.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:59 pm
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Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW, Australia
Very interesting if only I could see the Photos!

I clicked on the Photobucket URL and only got their Homepage :(

Try Opening the Image file in Microsoft Paint then go to "Attributes" --> "Image" and Re-size the pic, Save and now its a manageable size tp post.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 1:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:16 pm
Posts: 21
Location: Spain, Benicasim
Here is the correct and updated URL

http://story-of-a-sailing-kayak.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 3:22 pm
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I'm trying to make contact with Choke 1 for more details on his daggerboard,however, his email address is defunct.

I'm trying to overcome the problems associated with a sail rigged Hobie Revolution losing control in winds over 10 knots. It needs a substantial centerboard and beefed-up rudder. I like Choke 1's centerboard design and would like more info.

It appears he has placed the pivot point of his centerboard right at the bottom of the hull. I speculate he made another solid Mirage Drive well cassette within which he secured the centerboard.

I'm determined to turn the Revolution into a respectable sailing craft withou having to add outriggers.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2054
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
G'Day AM,
I have adapted the mirage drivewell cassette to fit the Adventure daggerboard on my Oasis tandem.
I used poly cutting board about 12mm thick. It is easily worked and soft enough to not damage the fibreglass daggerboard.

I cut up the board into 50mm strips using a jigsaw with a metal blade.
Working off a centreline I drilled and cut this shape copied from the Adventure slot:
Image

I then cut out the top of the cassette so that the trimmed poly pieces would fit snugly like so:
Image
Four sections are thick enough to hold the daggerboard firmly. Leave a little thickness in the lowest section large hole for the board to pivot on. I drilled it half way and shaped it with a rotary file attachment.

The sections are bolted through a thin section of aluminium on the underside of the cassette:

Image
The bolt heads are countersunk to reduce drag.
(Note the angled shaping of the slot from underneath so the daggerboard can fold back as it's designed to)

Here's how it looks fitted:
Image

Image

Image

It allows me to point much closer upwind and reduces sideslip considerably.
You should consider the sailing rudder if you don't already have it. It makes a big difference when sailing. :)
Check out these posts for more info:
http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=7935
http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewt ... highlight=


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