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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:53 pm
Posts: 384
Location: S.E. Florida
Kiss the thrust bearing good bye.

Thanks to Stringy and all the folks on this forum for the brilliant ideas on roller furling.
I was looking for a way to avoid the thrust bearing and here is my solution which works quite smoothly.

Parts List
(1) 7/8" multi-gage nylon domed glide (fits 3/4" hole)
(1) 7/8" bimini jaw slide
(1) Stainless Steel or Plastic pad eye w/ machine screws, washers & nylon lock nuts
3/16" nylon furling line

Firstly the plug in the bottom of the mast is flat .. too much drag for a smooth spin. I replaced it with a multi-gage nylon dome glide, those you find on patio furniture. They are available at many patio supply companies online for about 50 cents (shipping is more than the part). The domed plug spins feely in the mast tube.

using a butter knife work the flat plug out of the mast
Image

insert the new domed plug into the mast (use a multi-gage plug)
Image

Image

Use the same 7/8" jaw slide as in Stringy's method notched for the sail bungee. The slide has to be set higher on the mast to spin clear of the revolution hatch. I found adding two twists to the sail bungee and sliding the mast through the loops before the sail sleeve then clip the bungee on the slide tightens the sail to the mast thus making it easier to rotate in the furl & unfurl.
Image

I ran the furling line through a pad eye I bolted in front of the round hatch and then up through the cleat and tied a knot in the end to keep the furling line from coming out of the cleat. Once furled simply cleat off the line.
Image

I run the main sheet through a block attached behind the rear hatch through pad eyes along the gunnel to a cam cleat.
Image

The system works great.
A little dry silicone spray could be used too on the mast bottom but mine spins freely enough without it, again the twists in the bungee make a BIG difference.

Revo

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I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 519
Location: Auckland NZ
Just a thought: perhaps dropping one of the domed caps (domed sid up & with the bottom cut off) down the mast tube would further reduce friction ?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:39 pm 
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Location: S.E. Florida
stobbo,

Interesting thought. The dome cap would still turn on same surface area on a flat surface or a domed surface. Plus just something else to fall out or off when kayak is flipped over for storage or transport.

One picture I forgot to add in the closeup of the jaw slide
Image

Revo

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
Great idea! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:36 am 
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Location: S.E. Florida
Just FYI the place I ordered the end caps (there are others)

I even ordered a couple spares to justify the shipping :lol:

http://www.djpatio.com/Roundglides.htm

#30-618-B
7/8" round multi-gage insert (black)
I have to correct myself and say they were $1.00 not .50 as I stated in the initial post.

Revo

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:09 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Vancouver Island, British Columbia
I am going to get a dome glide and put it on--great idea. Is the reason you move the line to one side and onto the cleat to keep it out of the way?
T2

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 9:33 am 
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Location: S.E. Florida
tsquared wrote:
I am going to get a dome glide and put it on--great idea. Is the reason you move the line to one side and onto the cleat to keep it out of the way?
T2


primarily tieing off the furling line whether by cleat or jam cleat keeps the tension on the furling line as it goes between the pedals and not into them. I just found that the cleat was there so use it instead of adding more cost by buying a jam cleat. I was simplifying. The area in front of the revoution hatch is tough to place a jam cleat. The furling line through the cleat and knotted keeps it within easy access along side my right leg and I can easily draw and feed the line through the cleat with left hand as I also draw and feed the mainsheet with my right hand. There are other solutions I just found this the most simple.
Secondly the line knotted through the cleat serves to secure the mast to the yak (since the bungee is no longer clipped to the hook under the mast).
In the sad event of a turtle (capsize) even if the mast comes out of the mast hole it is tied to the yak by the mainsheet and the furling line. Knot the end of your mainsheet too after running through your pulleys and/or padeyes.

No matter how you decide to run your mainsheet or the furling line and
how the ends are anchored which is simply a matter of choice and personal preference.
The main element is the domed glide and the twists of the bungee making the sail tight to the mast with no slack for easy spinning. The tighter the sail furls the easier it spins without mast flex.

Revo

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:09 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Sayville, NY
I used the pvc method for furling the sail (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_stDzQJ ... ion_293026) also zip tied the sail bungee to the pvc and added the multi-gauge round insert to reduce friction. Also, added a piece of velcro to sail to keep it furled when main sheet line is removed. Works great, very simple! Thanks to everyone for the tips!

Here's another link for the multi-gauge round dome inserts, http://www.patiofurniturerehab.com/feet ... -in-30-618
pack of 25 w/shipping came to $5.75

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Bob
Proud member Kayak Fishing Association of New York
Supporting member NEKF, Supporting member Team Jinx
KW's KFA Team 3


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
Posts: 2069
Location: High Point, NC
If you're going to furl by spinning the mast in the mast hole, rather than spinning the sail around the mast, you can just drop a handful of BBs into the sail mast hole where they will function as a roller bearing on the bottom of the flat sail mast. Don't drop in so many that they sit atop one another - they should not quite fill the bottom so they all sit at the same level. You'll also have to remember to cap the sail mast tube with the stopper if you plan on turning your boat over for transport or storage, or the "bearing" will fall out.


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