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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:39 am 
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Anyone got a good idea on how to lock down the rudder on the Revo (sailing rudder, twist and stow, dont want to do the full pull line upgrade, at least not yet).

If I am out in 20+ winds, even reefed I tend to weatherhelm pretty badly on an upwind run. I am pretty sure it is the rudder popping up at around 5mph or equivelent stress, because I have it hard over and it feels loose, and if i back off the rudder and reapply it bites again.

Bungie it down? tie it? Any ideas?


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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 9:15 am 
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If you don't need to raise it for weeds, kelp or other... sure, bungee or bolt it down.

The line and cleat system is best / easiest once installed.

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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 12:35 pm 
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Still waiting for the line and cleat kit for 07 Revo :)


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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 1:38 pm 
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Me too.

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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:26 pm 
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Matt,

If you see this thread again, you had said you still had some of the old model seats there, is that still true?


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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:56 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
Archaegeo,

In case you still are interested in ideas for keeping the rudder down, here is my low-tech and simple idea I use for my Oasis. You only need a line and a smooth rvs ring (or something like that). I don't know if it fits your needs or will work on the revo, but it works for me.

Image

I removed the lowest front bolt from the rudder and ran a line through it. I guess this is not a recommended thing to do, but I use this for about a year without any problems (I only sail at 20- mph winds in relatively calm waters). Of course it is possible and better to use a longer bolt and attach the line to that, instead of removing it.

I let the line run on both sides of the rudder mount (by which I mean the part of the hull the rudder is mounted to) and through an rvs ring. This way it comes at an angle that makes it possible to pull the rudder down ("lock") nicely.

Image

If I think I need to "lock" the rudder, I pull it thight and make a slip-knot on the bungy of the rear deck. Because of the bungy, there still is some "give". It is quite a bit harder to have the rudder pop up, but on a strong impact it will, and nothing will be damaged. If needed, I can pull the line by hand to regain immedeate stearage.

As said, for me this setup works. I normally don't need to use this rudder "lock", but I made it because in late summer the weeds can be a problem on certain parts of the lake. They are (in fact the only) cause that my rudder sometimes pops up unwantedly.

Good luck with finding your solution,

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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 7:30 am 
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Ekua,

Thanks for the suggestion, but it almost appears that pulling that line tight would provide lift on the rudder since it comes up and over the top.

Maybe it doesnt, but appears it would....

Ahh, I see it goes on both sides, yeah, that might work.


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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 12:35 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
Because the line runs through the eye, you pull both sides equally; that's the trick indeed. Therefore, it's completely neutral for stearing, maybe my post was not clear enough on that. Anyhow, it works for sure with an 08 oasis, and I think it is likely to work on more mirage models.

Don't forget the ring though. Something like that is necessary to make sure that the line is at the same and correct angle on both sides of the rear end part of the hull the rudder is mounted to. Without, stearing may be influenced.

If this still is unclear, I can make a pic to clarify.

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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 9:00 pm 
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Location: Fairhope, Al.
Just installed the full line pull/cleat rudder update for an Adventure on my Revo today. Shortened both ends of the pull lines about six inches and it works like a champ !!! I have the sailing rudder installed already and the stock lifting system with the lever seemed to be at its limits, so I went for the upgrade. Now I don't have to wiggle the tiller lever back and forth to raise and lower the rudder any more. Nice smooth pull on up or down T handle to raise or drop rudder.

Now if I can just figure out a way to install the new mirage drive mounts and do away with the cam lock system......

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2008 Revo Fish
Sailing Rudder
ST Fins
Hobie Rod Extensions
Eagle Cuda 168 FF
Up/Down Line/Cleat Rudder Upgrade


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 5:19 am 
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Revo,

Did you buy a kit or just the parts all seperate.

Ah, I misread, you did the Adventure upgrade on your Revo, nice

Care to step by step it? :) Or is there a thread somewhere that does?

Bear in mind with the new mounts you need the new drive, the old drive pins pop out.


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 5:32 am 
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I see this kit for the AI in the 08-09 catalog
81391002 RUDDER UP/DOWN LINE KIT

Is that all that would be needed?


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 7:27 pm 
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Location: Fairhope, Al.
Not sure of the part number on the kit I got. Will find out. The kit had both of the turning blocks, replacement tubes with spectra line for the stern, short tubes to install in the cockpit, shockcorded center lift lines, up down T handles with labels, hardware, and intructions with the worst black and white pictures that I have ever seen!!!!

This was my first install and I didn't take any pictures, but I will be repeating the process on my wife's soon and will try to remember to take some.

It's really not that difficult. My fifty year old eyes were the biggest hurdle to overcome. Place the kayak on a solid work surface and gather some tools. Drill with assorted bits, Phillips screwdriver, 3/8", 11/32", and 9/16" sockets and/or wrenches, tape measure, utility knife, and allen wrench to remove the old up/down lever.

If folks are interested, I'll post up a better step by step description with pictures when I do my wife's.

_________________
2008 Revo Fish
Sailing Rudder
ST Fins
Hobie Rod Extensions
Eagle Cuda 168 FF
Up/Down Line/Cleat Rudder Upgrade


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
archaegeo wrote:
Bear in mind with the new mounts you need the new drive, the old drive pins pop out.

Well, not exactly. Any Drive will work with the new Click & Go system. The '07 and older Drives (and most of the '08s) just need a splined drumshaft upgrade to keep the shaft from rotating:
Image
Easy replacement.

But unfortunately, the C&G system cannot be retrofitted to any boat that wasn't built for it. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 6:24 am 
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Revo,

The Part number of the kit would be helpful, but a step by step of the process would be a great addition to the site, because yeah, the hobie instructions that come with kits have AWFUL pictures

(Hint hint matt)


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:14 am 
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If you want to wade through the following topic, there are some very helpful installation suggestions. Also notice there are two kits. I suspect he '07 kit also upgrades the rudder tubes to the "sealed" '08 version. This difference would apply to the Revo or any of the other boats as well. 8)
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8188&hilit=+install+rudder+kit


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