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Hull Repair
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Author:  Abraham Jones [ Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Hull Repair

Can the following be fixed? The previous owners of the boat had two additional ports cut into the hulls. A small port was added forward of the cross bar and the one pictured aft of the shroud. When the boat goes over the hull in the water has much more water in it that the hull that was out of the water. I suspect these big ports are leaking. The covers are so big that they don't follow the curvature of the hulls very well and when I pump air into the hulls with a shop vac to check for leaks around the dagger board trunks for example, they pop up. If possible I want to have these big ports removed and repaired. I'd also like to get the partial bulkhead repaired too.
For what it's worth IMHO additional port covers on a boat like the H20 are a terrible idea! I want to say "Shame on the previous owners and the shop that did the work" Before I get carried away I must ask who would buy a H20 that someone tried to turn into a camper? :oops:

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Author:  arnis [ Fri Oct 24, 2008 5:56 am ]
Post subject:  Hull Repair.

Yes , it can be repaired . Once you remove inspection plates all you have to do is make a flange around cut out . Then make a fiberglass laminate plate to fit inside a cut out and bond it in. Then all you have to do is fiberglass plate around edge to the deck . After that you can finish your repair with gelcoat. Then you can repaint nonskid on the deck to hide a repair spot. All this can be done in about 8hrs.
I ran my boat on ground week ago and puncture hole with my dagger board in a dagger board trunk so I almost sunk my boat . I will be cutting hole in my deck to get to the repair spot from inside and then closing up hole in the deck.

Author:  Rick Buchanan [ Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:14 am ]
Post subject: 

Don't cut a hole in the deck of a 20 to fix a crack or hole in a dagger board well! Go thru the bottom of the hull where it's solid glass. If you hit bottom with a board down you most likely cracked the bottom rear portion of the well . To make a fix on something like this you can cut an "access" hole in the bottom several inches away from the well, then make a elongated "taco shell" shaped patch out of fiberglass and apply to the well. If you need more help or advice I'd be glad to help...email me at [email protected] .

Author:  Rick Buchanan [ Sun Oct 26, 2008 2:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

Abraham, please send your private email address to me at [email protected] . I've got some info which may help you with the inspection port issue.

Author:  Bsquared [ Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:43 pm ]
Post subject:  ports

I broke a beam bolt and had to access the aluminum block under the beam; ergo a new port in back of the front beam. Also broke a shroud chainplate (thunderstorm flying across a parking lot) and had to access the nuts on the inside of the hull; ergo a hatch behind the daggerboards. I felt more comfortable doing strong but rough work on the top deck than I did messing up my bottom. In both cases, I sealed the foam around the cutout, and installed circular backing plates under the ports inside the hulls. I also picked the smallest possible ports I could fit my hand through, and looked for sturdy ones. I haven't seen any issues. My ports are FAR superior to the stock aft ports, IMO. I will grant the boat looks ghetto :-)

I had previously installed a big storage port, but made a dam and bedded that in thickened epoxy to provide a flat surface on the curved deck. With the epoxy and backing plates, I still think that's the strongest part of the deck. Not sure I would do this again, but with a fat bag under it, it did provide good semi-dry storage. Not totally dry, but The boat could sit upside all day and not leak a pint. I can live with that. In your case, I would agree to pull 'em off and glass over.

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