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Setup questions
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=17773		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Abraham Jones [ Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Setup questions
At nationals I noticed H20(s) that had the H16 type main sheet traveler set up. A few had a plate that mounted the traveler cleat to the rear cross bar. Is that plate from the Getaway?

What kind of barber hauler blocks are recommend that don't foul the jib blocks? Upwind I always have to pull the barber hauler line get the block clear of the jib block and then sheet the jib. Frustrating.

Equally frustrating is getting tangled up in the downhaul line coming in off the wire. Any suggestions for what to do with the downhaul line? I have it tied to the crew trap handle.

Where can I get daggerboard rollers?

I see that a template for drilling EPO rudders for the H20 is finally available :D

I measure that the EPO rudders are about 7/8" wide and the stock rudders are 1" wide. How to shim the gudgeons for the EPO rudders?
Author:  MVD [ Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
I can answer one of your questions. The rollers to hold the daggerboards up are Hobie part number HC40330101, description is "Daggerboard POS Holding System". I bought a set from Mariner Sails (http://www.mariner-sails.com) for $74.50. The Hobie parts diagram on Mariner's site doesn't depict them, but if you scroll down on their "Hull and Deck Parts" page, below the diagram, you'll find a table that lists them. They're nice to have.
Author:  srm [ Wed Dec 02, 2009 12:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
1) I suspect folks are making their own traveler cleat bracket. I personally never had a real problem with the stock cleat built into the traveler.

2) I think what you're describing is the barberhauler block sliding back against the jib block and jamming up the jib sheet. If I remember correctly, we used to tie a stopper knot on each side of the barberhauler line so that the block could not drop back against the jib cleat (i.e. we would limit how far 'out' the barberhauler line could go).

3) Downhaul is tied to the actual handle? I always tied it in a loop around the return bungee cord. That way it was always down at the crew's feet right at the front crossbar, so it's not too far away, but not tied to the trap system in any way that it would impede the crew's motion fore or aft.

4) For rudder shims, I think you can get a pack of discs from Hobie or Murrays. However I always just cut up a milk jug into shims. Wedge a few in there so the rudder is good and snug, then put the rudder bolt in and whack it thru with a hammer.

sm
Author:  mmiller [ Wed Dec 02, 2009 12:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
Quote:
A few had a plate that mounted the traveler cleat to the rear cross bar. Is that plate from the Getaway?


Yes. #37760041 CAM CLEAT PLT- GTWY (Bent to fit rear beam shape)
Author:  Hammond [ Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
I use the harken bullet block with a becket for the Barber Hauler. I cut the plastic out of the top of the block near the tie off end (away from the becket). This allows the block to pivot more and does not bind on the jib sheet. You can also use a stainless ring instead of a block, but there will be more drag on the sheet.

My boat was one with the center cleat. Make sure you mount it low enough to clear the mainsheet without load. I mounted mine level with the top of the rear cross bar and at times the loose sheet causes the main sheet blocks to hit the cleat while jibing. One inch lower would be enough.

There is no need to shim the rudders. Just tighten the rudder bolt.
Author:  Paul Bommersbach [ Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
Abraham:

Send me your email sometime so I can get you on my H20 list. You should get registered on the Hobie 20 social site, so you can hang with the rest of the H20 sailors across the nation.

http://hobie-20.ning.com

Thanks,
Paul Bommersbach

PS - glad you could make havamegas this year!
Author:  srm [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
Quote:
There is no need to shim the rudders. Just tighten the rudder bolt.


I would tend to disagree with that bit of advice. Cast aluminum is pretty brittle- it doesn't like to bend, it just breaks. If you have more than about a 1/16" gap between your rudder and the casting, you would be better off to shim rather than just cranking in on the bolts. In addition, shims provide a bearing surface so the castings don't wear into the rudders.

sm
Author:  Paul Bommersbach [ Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
Abraham - Good to see you at Havamegas. I'm still looking for your email address so I can keep your info updated.

http://hobie-20.ning.com

Sign up at the Hobie 20 social site above, and you can stay in touch with the other H20 sailors also.

Paul Bommersbach
Author:  Bsquared [ Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Setup questions
I attached a small pully on the bottom of the tramp, just about center. I think there's a little tab of fabric down there you can sew to. I ran a length of thin bungeee through that pulley and up to the front of the tramp. Tied a ring to the trap bungeee cord, ran the downhaul line through that ring, and tied it to the thin bungee; repeat other side. As you go out on the wire, the downhaul goes out with you, within easy reach. As you come in, the slack goes under the tramp. One less line to grab your feet. As the downhaul cleats pull up to release, you may need to play with the ring location so that you don't uncleat the downhaul every time you go out.
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