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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 11, 2013 11:24 pm
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Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Some of the early production models had a high rate of hull failures due to a manufacturing defect, but this was rectified in later models. Does anyone know what year the problem was fixed. I have a 1992 model H-20


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:11 pm 
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I think it's 93/94?? Pretty sure '92 is in the danger zone.


Tom

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Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:51 pm 
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What was the reason for the failures and what did Hobie do to fix the problem?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 2:50 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Defects with the finishing process at the deck/hull joint. Basically they sanded away too much of the glass while fairing in the joint and it would develop cracks in that area. At least, that's what happened to our boat. It was a '94.

I imagine that if your boat hasn't failed yet, it's probably OK. Ours cracked in the first year.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:57 am 
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So If I installed a port hole behind the front cross beam, I could go in and do my own repair to the joints?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:25 pm 
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Yes. You need to bond the deck to the sidewalls.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:28 pm 
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There are bulkheads inside the hulls, so be careful where you cut your holes. The bulkheads will also probably limit how much access you have to the inside of the hull.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:31 pm 
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There is a bulkhead directly below the main beam. The next is mid-dagger well, so as long as you stay aft of the beam and forward of the well... No problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:45 pm 
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Would it be better to make a couple of holes on the deck in front of the front crossbeam go in repair the joints and seal the holes up?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:36 am 
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It is best to not compromise the deck in front of the beam. You can cut holes in the bulkhead to work through if needed.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 7:37 pm 
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There's a '92 advertised for sale near me. Should I bite?

Problem is we're just starting - me and a friend want to get it together and learn. We sailed only 'toy' "Hobie Wave" down south and it's fun, but even if the 'investment' is around 2500 we want to have it for more than a few times... :)

If we go for it, what signs should we look for?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:57 am 
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Cracks near the forward beam (inboard or outboard) running fore/aft on the sides about 1/2 down from the lip... the glue seam area.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:00 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
A Hobie 20 is an angry boat. Not really for beginners. Since your name is Stilgar, I assume you'll understand this reference:

It's like learning to ride Shai-Hulud . . .
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:25 am 
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Thanks mmiler that's the type of information I needed!

MBounds, younger Fremens were riding Shai-Hulud if I remember well, only they didn't summoned them :wink:

Together we'll be in the 400lb range and we're taking it for leisure not racing or stunts.

Promise we'll start in no wind :lol: learning to right it first, turteled or not, then we'll take it easy...

We have a fishing boat to help if need be.

We're aware the jump from 14 to 20 is huge, but we're adults, so not taking unnecessary risks.

Thanks for you thoghts!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:32 pm 
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Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
For easy identification of bulkhead failure is to look under the front cross bar on the inner side of the hull. If the hull has waves and is not flat and smooth, then you have a problem. There are actually two issues with the bulkhead. The early boats never had fiberglass cloth between the bulkhead and the deck (92'). Then after HCC started glassing the bulkhead to the deck. The second issue started and HCC has never addressed this issue which is the bulkhead itself is a foam sandwich which is not strong enough to handle the torquing that happens in front of the crossbar when sailing in waves and the actual bulkhead delaminates and fails. Every Hobie 20 in Hawaii has had bulkhead failure. Doesn't matter what year (a 97' hull has bulkhead failure). Now, most of these boats have seen sailing in conditions your boat would not have seen.
I myself can't count how many times I've sailed in winds over 20 and can think of just under 10 times out in winds over 30. We normally don't sail if the winds are under 10 (too light).

Back to the bulkhead, best repair for this is to cut into the hull from the bottom of the hull where there is no foam sandwich and add several fiberglass layers to the bulkhead wrapping around onto the hull and while you have the hull open add a layer to the underside of the deck (8oz.)
This is not a rookie repair so if you are not a glassman get someone who is. I have photos if you need visuals (air in the corners is very bad).
One of the other Hobie 20 guys here cut out the center of the bulkhead so he could reglass the bulkhead to the hull and deck on the front and back sides of the bulkhead, then glassed the cutout piece back in. A lot of this work requires a camera, long thin arms and a tyveck sleeve to keep your arm from getting scratched up and itchy.
All of this repair is with the hull upside down. His bulkhead had failed, the glass tape was still attached to the deck and hulls but the bulkhead was split in half from a deck/hull corner to a gap where the carbon rib runs thru the bulkhead. It's not an if question it's a when question.
I had my H20 for 18 years and wouldn't trade my time on the boat for nothing! A great boat for sailing. Take your time and read up on tuning, watch the Rick White videos over and over, get plenty of cockpit time and try sailing drills like man overboard. making the jump from Wave to 20 can be done! There is a guy here that made the jump from a Wave to a Tiger and after 2 years he is sailing singlehanded in winds under 12 while flying the chute.


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