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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 6:18 pm 
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Got my new to me H20 rigged last weekend, all new sheets and lines. Stepped the mast and hoisted the sails. Looked 90% correct except the jib halyard.... I downloaded and printed out the manual from here and examined it closely on the jib and it makes no sense to me. Is it rigged like a H18?

#1 My jib halyard is a very skinny~ 30' (sister clip undone leaves about 20% remaining to tuck away )1/8th" line with a block and a ~3ft 3/16"pigtail. I hoisted the jib up by the skinny line( down the front of the mast) and ran the pigtail through the little cleat that looped through the pulley back to the cleat and then tensioned it up, disconnected the halyard at the sister clip, seemed pretty normal and looked good, however, i've seen that same line ran back through the jib zipper and looped and cleated at the little cleat thats on the jib itself?? if thats the case, what its the jib tensioner that cleats to the front of the mast base? If i pull the halyard back through the jib there's nothing left over to cleat there, am i missing a line completely?
A pic or short vid of your jib halyard setup would be awesome here!!

#2 My mainsheet block has an extra block, right on top of the cleat. I've rigged it exactly as the manual states and this is not used at all..... at some point in my boats past, the previous owner has added a really nice 1.5" harken for some reason. Thoughts? just remove it and be happy or is it there for something useful?

My Jib cars are behind the negative rotation cam cleats. Concerns or just personal preference? They're at the back of the trampoline pocket. Move to the front? or just try it out and see if it operates smooth :wink:

Yes, i have to clean and lube the luff track, couldn't get the main sail up the last 18".....
Rotation limiter not installed yet... but thats very simple :)

Thanks you guys!!!
Tim


PICS!

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Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
Here goes...

#1 On Hobie 20s with a jib roller furler, you rig up the jib exactly the same as is done on the H18 (i.e., the jib halyard is routed through the jib luff pocket and down to a cleat at the jib tack).

On Hobie 20s without the roller furler (stock setup which is what you have), the jib halyard cleats on the mast. This system allows you to adjust the jib luff tension on the water. The jib halyard consists of three components - the wire section with shackle on one end and a micro block with becket on the other end , a thin halyard line (roughly 25 feet long), and a halyard tensioning line (approximately 3/16" dia, 3 feet long). Both the halyard line and the halyard tensioning line get tied off to the micro block on the wire halyard.
To raise the jib, connect the shackle on the wire halyard to the grommet at the head of the jib. Wrap the jib luff around the forestay and zipper it. One person zips the jib while the other pulls the thin halyard line to hoist the jib up. Once the jib is up 95% of the way, take the halyard tensioning line and route it through the clam cleat on the front of the mast and the micro block on the wire halyard to make a 3:1 purchase. Tension the halyard and cleat off the line (tie a stopper knot in the end also). Then untie the thin halyard line, coil and stow it in the tramp pouch. That's all there is to it. Do the reverse to lower the jib.

#2 The previous owner may have found that the 7:1 system ran more smoothly using the block on top of the cleat rather than the "fiddle" block. Or maybe he had a quad upper block at one point and ran 9:1? Personally I would take the extra block off and rig it the way you have it. That's how we always ran the sheet and it worked fine.

3# Stock position was with the jib blocks behind the rotator cleat, at least that's how our boat came. I ended up moving the blocks in front of the cleat because the jib shaped up better that way. Add an upper and lower set of telltails to the jib. When you're sailing upwind, you want them to break evenly or the uppers to break just before the lowers. Adjust the jib blocks accordingly. Another option would be to add a pair of grommets to the tramp a couple inches back from where the current rotator grommets are. This would allow you to move the rotator cleats back out of the way.

Hope this helps. Enjoy the 20, she's a beast!

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:35 am
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That does help a bunch. Been sailing a H16 the last few years and i'm trying to not approach the H20 with a biased eye ;)
I sailed on a friends 20 last year and had soo much fun I didn't pay too much attention to the rigging details. I really want to make the 20 my primary focus.

Any tips on streamlining rigging time? Quick pins or no?

Random extra block is removed......

Tim

_________________
Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 7:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:53 am
Posts: 238
Location: Storm Lake, IA
A couple more things you could do to avoid problems. 1. Tie a line or bungee from the turnbuckle to the bridal plate under the Jib sheet. This will keep the jib blocks from getting hung up at the mast base on tacks. Maybe consider shortening up the jib pigtails a bit. I wish I had a better pict. but hopefully you get the idea.
ImageImage
2. Add a "wrinklie" tube. Its a piece of PVC from the mast rotatation arm to the boom attachment on the mast. This keeps the arm from flipping up and more importantly keeps it off the tramp. Image


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