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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:28 pm 
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Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
Hey All,

Ive got some of those Proctor Stamaster shroud adjusters and Im trying to figure out the best way to attach them to the boat. The bottom is easy, its two plates and the hull fitting goes in between and add a pin, presto, done! The top, not so easy... Its a single plate at the top and my shround end (standard issue Hobie) is also a single plate, how do I join them without adding length? Would a heavy duty 1/4" pin SS shackle keep them together enough? With them being side by side, they would twist the shackle a bit, which might not be great for it and I dont want a demasting.

I could take a 10 hole adjuster and cut it, making it a 2 hole adjuster and add pins for each end. That might add enough length though, to make the adjuster lose quite a bit of range. Thats no good. What about a heavy duty SS nut and bolt?

I saw in the WildCat manual that their shrouds come with a double pronged shroud fitting, making the attachment simpler. I dont want to have to get new shroud, these are almost brand new...

Any help is appreciated!

Hurry up spring!!!!!!

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:00 pm 
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Don't cobble. Buck up, buy new shrouds. Get used to pissing money away, a boat is just an endless hole into which you pour money.

You can either do a fork fitting and pin it to the StaMaster, or you can put a swage/eye through the top of the StaMaster.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:18 am 
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Agree just buy new shrouds. They are not that expensive. Anything cobbled together is going to cause you problems in the long run.

"Never time to do it right, but always time to do it over."


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:19 pm 
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What about having the shrouds professionally shortened and add a 10 hole adjuster ?

If that doesn't work, would (Matt?) a Wildcat shroud work and what do they run?

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 6:15 pm 
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Why would you want a chain plate with a sta master if you're going to have em' shortened anyway.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 6:57 pm 
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Because a chainplate has two sides on both ends, it can join the stamaster to the shroud with two pins, easy.

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:01 pm 
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Tallguy1 wrote:
Because a chainplate has two sides on both ends, it can join the stamaster to the shroud with two pins, easy.


and we're back to cobbling......... :lol:

Like I said, either run an eye through the top of the sta-master, or have a fork swaged onto the end of the wire. Adding more junk just potentially adds more points for something to fail. and more stuff to bounce off of when you stuff it.


Are you concerned with how to remove the shrouds from the hull? You just unscrew the sta-master all the way.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:25 am 
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What exactly is an "eye"? I probably have ten already and just call it something else

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 4:45 pm 
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Tallguy1 wrote:
What exactly is an "eye"? I probably have ten already and just call it something else


Thimble. Yeah, everybody calls everything different. I'm not a huge fan of using one, its just one more thing to remove skin as you go whizzing across it.

I wasn't ambitious enough to take the tape off, but mine have a fork at the end of the wire that is pinned to the top of the stamaster.

Its pretty clean this way

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:05 pm 
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Location: Cape Cod, MA
Blair,
Give me a call... we can get it all figured out.
I didn't read much of the rest of this thread but we can get your shroud adjuster to cover roughly the same throw as your chainplates and account for stretch that's already occurred in your current shroud.
I did this with my shrouds with the Ronstan Calibrated Turnbuckles, much more complicated to set up than Sta-Masters but worth the effort.
I'd agree with the new shrouds. It is not worth investing money to shorten old ones, those stainless steel forks are expensive!

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Sturgis Boat Works
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:48 pm 
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I've got the plan down, Todd, and it doesnt involve buying your Infusion! ;) We'll chat later when I'm home,

B

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:31 pm 
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Hi guys

i am interested in doing this to my boat was going th use the wildcat shrouds and sta adjusters was on to hobie europe as i am in Ireland and was told the shroud lengths are different so can you tell me what the length of the shrouds should be my boat is 2002 model and is 2.5m wide dont know if that makes a difference to doing the mods can anyone shred somelight on this

thanks

paudie


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:53 pm 
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I'm actually just going to use the StaMaster adjuster, but upside down. Using the stock Tiger shrouds ( I ain't getting new ones, these have only been sailed four times!!!) with a high quality 1/4" SS shackle and some washers to snug up any slack, it will work well. I have it on good authority ( a long time fellow Tiger racer) that this works fine and it ain't cobbled. ;)

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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