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 Post subject: Tiger hull repair
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 9:58 am 
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
My Tiger has a hole in it approximately 3 inches round. It was caused by chafing against a rock. (Long sad :cry: and embarassing story)

What is the best way to repair it so that it is not visible?

The hole is on the top of one hull on the edge about a foot in from the stern.

I have some fiberglass repair stuff called Gelcote repair product.

Right now I have it covered with aluminum tape to keep it clean.

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Alan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 5:30 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Alan - can you post a photo? Is the hole all the way through?

Fortunately the access port is right there, so you'll have easy access to the inside if you need to.

Gel-coat repair product is really only for fixing scratches, not fixing holes.

Sounds like you'll need some fiberglass cloth, polyester resin and some filler material (like microballoons).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 10:16 pm 
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Mbounds

Sorry took awhile to set up a website to put the photo in.

Here 'tis

http://www3.nf.sympatico.ca/alan.faulkner/DSC00389.JPG

I just got the boat out from storage removed the tape and it isn't as bad as I remember. There is still cloth underneath although probably wouldn't hurt to add a bit for strength. I have some premix short strand fiberglass filler (dark green) for the initial filling. Would that be OK to start ? Would I add microballoons to that?

Thanks

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Alan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 6:22 am 
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Quote:
I have some premix short strand fiberglass filler (dark green) for the initial filling.


That's the stuff to use, although you might consider making some yourself because the dark green will be hard to hide with white gel coat.

I'd lay a layer or two of glass tape on the inside of the hole to reinforce it.

Then just take some resin and mix in some chopped up fiberglass until it's thick and spread it over the deeper spots to build them up. Trim it while it's still "green" (not fully hardened). Fair out the surface with a fairing compound (like Formula 27 or Bondo - remember, white or light gray is easier to hide).

Spray with white gel, wet sand and polish and you're as good as new.

Put a foot stap over the part behind the rear crossbar and you don't have to worry about re-creating the non-skid. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 7:36 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Matt,

Several times you have mentioned Formula 27, is this a marine or automotive product?

Your advice is so right on with cosmetic hull repairs. While the epoxy (West System) resins are obviously stronger, why use them on a boat made of polyester resin? Is is not as easy to hide the epoxy and difficult to fair.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 7:38 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:45 am
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Matt,

Several times you have mentioned Formula 27, is this a marine or automotive product?

Your advice is so right on with cosmetic hull repairs. While the epoxy (West System) resins are obviously stronger, why use them on a boat made of polyester resin? Is is not as easy to hide the epoxy and difficult to fair.

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 9:12 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Image

Available at West Marine or pretty much any place that carries fiberglass repair stuff.

It's a polyester resin based fairing compound that's a light gray color. Cure time can be a short as 10 minutes, depending on how much hardener you add.

3M makes a fairing compound too, but it uses a colored hardener that makes the final color a bluish-green that's tough to hide with white gel.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 12:13 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
Thanks guys!

I'll let you know how it works out.

Cheers
Al

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Alan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 3:58 pm
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
Quote:
Put a foot stap over the part behind the rear crossbar and you don't have to worry about re-creating the non-skid. :wink:


Any pictures of how to do the foot strap?

I got lucky BTW. Turns out a new neighbour was a fiberglass guy. He used a cloth made up of 2" strands of fiber about 1/8" thick. This was his base which he built up and then when it hardened he used the short strand filler. Ended up switching to Bondo short strand 2 part. (long story why.) Haven't finished the repair completely but it's great to have someone show you the proper way.

Got bold today and decided to repair my 14' Hobie. Plan to paint it with 1 part polyurethane. 25 years old so it deserves a bit of TLC. I sort of suspect it was a bit jealous when I got the Tiger...

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Alan


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