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 Post subject: Dagger board repair
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 11:11 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2006 11:03 am
Posts: 1
Hello my fellow Tiger friends,

After a great day of sailing I entered the marina a little too close to the edge and the daggerboard hit a rock. Now the tip is somewhat spliced, and you can see the inside of the dagger.

Does anyone have some good tips on how to repair this?

Thanks
Jeronimo!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 7:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:18 pm
Posts: 73
Location: League City, Texas, USA
I'm no great expert - but did a similar repair to a Hobie 18 dagger board back when I owned an 18SX. I dried out the board really well (kept it inside in the air conditioning for a week), and raked out the debris that was trapped in the split end of the board. I then made a thin mixture of west system epoxy with some high density adhesive filler (no colloidal silica as I wanted it to flow well). After wetting out the inside of the split with just plain west system epoxy I then spooned in the mixture with the adhesive filler. I then wrapped cling film (saran wrap) over the repair area and clamped the two sides of the repair area with wooden blocks to close up the split.

Once this had cured I faired out the repair with west system, micro balloons and colloidal silica and then sprayed it with marine enamel (this looks OK but obviously won't hold up like gel coat).

If you want to use gel coat on the repair then I think you have to use polyester resin instead of epoxy resin - from what I can remember gelcoat does not adhere as well to an epoxy repair area. However I have never mixed polyester resin with filler to repair a split.

Good luck with the repair,

Chris.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 11:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 3:58 pm
Posts: 102
Location: Ottawa, Canada
I tried Bondo. Worked well but eventually it came out.

Seems as if the best way to go is to use layers of fiberglass that is not woven but looks like matting. I got it from a friend and not sure where he got it, but I suspect that an auto repair shop could point you in the right direction.

The idea is to layer it on and roll fiberglass resin in till it is just soaked. The resin is only there to hold the matt in place. The resin doesn't provide strength. The glass matting or cloth provides the strength. Use carbon fiber if you can find some. If you use carbon fiber, be careful when sanding, as it is tougher than nails and will stick into you. So put only enough resin in to wet it, then squeeze out the excess. A roller works well. You can use a paint roller cut in two or three sections.

As Flumpmaster mentioned if you put Saran wrap or some kind of plastic over as it hardens it will come out smooth. Depending on where the repair is you'll have a smooth beautiful repair or a smooth ugly mess. :lol:

Then sand off the excess and fill in surface problems with something like Bondo. Trouble with Bondo is that it is dark and will display your handiwork so you have to coat it with gel coat. Too bad bondo didn't come in white. :cry:

Where I sail is rocky so white "Bondo" would be a good thing as my expression is that it is inevitable as death, taxes and dings... :cry:

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Alan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:13 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2003 10:00 am
Posts: 383
Location: Long Beach, CA
Gel Coat is polyester resin thicken slightly with microballons and pigment added.

A thought is you can use glass fibers instead of the microballons. Maybe you could put some coloidal silca (I like this more than microballons) in if you want it less runny. Add the pigment when it is all the rest is mixed to your satisfaction. Remember that adding pigment will increase the amount of catalyst you need. Compare the difference in the amount of catalyst needed with the same brand of gel coat and straight resin. If you use regular unwaxed resin you will need to cover the area with waxed paper or PVA. Finish resin is waxed resin, but you will not have enough wax to do the job if you put in the pigment. I recommend using the wax paper or spray PVA to cover laminating resin.

Later,
Dan


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