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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 5:05 pm 
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I have recently changed my mainsheet block ratio from the stock setup to a 10:1. The origional mainsheet seems to be abit short. I have measured it and it is 41 ft.

I called the Hobie shop and they checked to find out the correct length. They said the boats shipped origionally with 41 ft but now they ship with 48 ft line. I am assuming that was the appropriate length for the 8:1.

So my question is "how long should the mainsheet be if I now have a 10:1 ratio blocks?"

And, does anyone know the proper reeving for the blocks?

Thanks
Mike


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 10:04 am 
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I have not measured my mainsheet in a while so I cannot tell you the exact length right now I will try to get it this weekend.

I put a 10:1 system on my boat initially to see if I would like it. To do that I used the original mainsheet. It seemed like an okay length as I used it for about a half of a season before getting a tapered mainsheet. You rarely send the mainsheet out very far while sailing a Tiger so I would say that all you need is the distance between your two blocks times two to get exactly the same amount of free line on the boat. If you think your mainsheet right now is a bit long try it with the 10:1 and see if it works for you.

To set up my 10:1 I added a double block to the becket of my top triple and moved the single that was hanging there to the becket of the bottom block. Now I have two singles on the bottom, one from the becket and one from the padeye that is above the cleat.

Warning while doing this: You are adding friction to the system. You will get a better purchase by using the one size sheet but not the advantage you will get once you go to the tapered sheet. I really like the 10:1 with the tapered sheet as I, not my crew, am the one that works the main. My understanding is that crews who work the main prefer the 8:1.

Later,
Dan


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 10:23 am 
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Thanks Dan for the info. I have used the 10:1 set at the last regatta and what you said was right. I plan on replacing the sheet with a new line that I can taper.

I also tend the main sheet most of the time because I sail with my daughter and the main sheet is or was too much for her at 8:1 or even 9:1. She is pretty young still and I hope she will work up to the being able to do the 10:1 main if she wants to.

What do you recomend for the type of line for the main sheet?

I had in mind getting the Samson Warpspeed because that is in the supply stores here.

Thanks for the info in the previous post.
Mike


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:49 pm 
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Line type that I use is Conception 3/8 inch tapered to 1/4 inch Vectron. I got it from Annapolis Performance Sailing made up.

I like this set up as it is really nice on the hands and I am a wimp. I also have all the lines on my boat soft for the hands for my crews benefit.

Another line that you can consider is SD3 Tapered - Marlow 3/8 to 1/4 that you do the work yourself on the tapering at $1.18 per foot. http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e862.asp I have talked to others that like it but I hav not used it.

Warpspeed is fine. I think it is a bit harder on the hands though.

Later,
Dan


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 Post subject: Main Sheet
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:52 am 
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Is the 10:1 system class legal?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:12 am 
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10:1 is F18 class legal. Almost all of the mainsheets I've built for F18 10:1 setups have been 54' overall in length (including traveller), with a taper and a split tail.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 11:04 am 
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trey make great lines, i get nothing but positive feedback from everyone who uses his line, he knows that he's doing!

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 Post subject: Re: Main Sheet
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:02 pm 
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Hagar wrote:
Is the 10:1 system class legal?


Even in Hobie class racing. You are also allowed to taper any sheet or halyard you like. I use a tapered Main sheet, Spinnaker sheet, and Spinnaker halyard.

Later,
Dan


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 Post subject: Re: Main Sheet
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:40 pm 
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Dan DeLave wrote:
Even in Hobie class racing. You are also allowed to taper any sheet or halyard you like. I use a tapered Main sheet, Spinnaker sheet, and Spinnaker halyard.

Later,
Dan


Tapered spin halyard? Which part do you taper? I thought that a significant amount of it went through the crews hands - which part of the hoist or douse does the crew get a larger line?

On a related note, do any Tigers use a 1:2 spin halyard?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:19 pm 
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Location: Seattle, Washington
Tim,
The spin halyard from the head to the block on the mast to the point just before entering the cam cleat on the mast or crossbar can be tapered as it will not be handeled.

The retreival end of the halyard which is attatched at one end to the sail via 2 or 3 eyelet in the sail then goes through the snuffer tube and around through the tramp back to the cam cleat is the part that will be handeled.
That is the other end of the standing halyard holding up the head of the sail.

Hope this helped.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 3:22 pm 
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Mike has it right on. if you separate grommets in the spinnaker by tying knots then theoretically you could put a thinner piece of line there.

I did see a couple of 2:1 spinnaker halyards when I was at the Worlds in France but I'm not sure if this is a big advantage and I don't think anyone in the US is doing it.

Later,
Dan


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