Moving spin cleat from beam to mast

The way the spin cleat is mounted on the beam all too often results in having to karate chop the line to uncleat. I want to move the cleat to the mast to make it friendlier for those who are not ninjas like me. I was thinking about a foot above the mast rotator? Does anyone have any tips or advice on doing this so I don't end up with a bunch of holes in my mast?

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Tiger 947/2364

We put ours about 4' up the mast. That way you can pull up the spin from a standing position - which seems to be quicker and easier than when on your knees.

We used a large Harken swivel cleat (140) for the halyard - as used on the Nacra Infusion. We still sometimes have a 5mm spin halyard pop out of the cleat under high loads - we think the swivel cleat frame is not stiff enough and the flexing under load opens up the jaws enough to let it slip.
Adding an extra section of cover to the halyard at this location helps prevent this happening. It also gives you a clear visual cue that the hoist is complete.

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The cleat has to be removed from the frame and turned upside down so you pull down to uncleat - to make the take down easier. You also have to lose the eyestrap.

We run the halyard from the mast cleat to a block on the front cross beam (with a spring to hold it up), back to a turning block on a bungee on the tramp and then following the normal routing to the snuffer bag. This allows the halyard to be uncleated very easily during the take down. The crew holds the retrival end in one hand and gives a tug on the halyard between the cross beam and the turning block - which pulls the halyard out the cleat and lets the drop start. The crew can then get both hands on the retrival line very quickly

I can't recommend the ronstan cleat that Hobie put on the mast as stock - a couple of us blew them up very quickly when reaching with the kite (distance racing).

Chris.

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2008 Hobie Tiger

What about a spinlock? Mine cleats and uncleats very easily. Cleats too easily in fact. If I'm dousing the spin, and I'm pulling to low it will lock on me. It has just taken some adjustment in usuage to weed out the problems.

I am with Chris on this one. I recommend the metal Harken with the cleat turned on the swivel the right way. That is to be able to uncleat pulling down. I had no problems with the Ronstan when I used it for three years until it broke at the North Americans...of course. I replaced it nicely with the Harken but did not have the metal toothed cleat, used plastic, not good but I could not get the metal and had the other in my box. Get the metal so it stays in place.

Reason not to use the Spinlock: I think that there is too much line going through the Spinlock for it to work right. Seems to fail with lots of line running through it. I like the newer Spinlock swivel for 16:1 downhaul but I do not use it for the spinnaker halyard.

Later,
Dan

I haven't had my FX that long. I can't say on the durability

We have used the Rostan fitting for over a year in breeze over 25 kts. I have added an extra cover line to help with cleating and also it allows Emily to quickly see where the cleat point is. I added an extra set of cams to the set - used plastic - mistake - broke - will be replacing with an Aluminum base.

We'll see how it stands up to 4 days of 20knts plus at our National Titles on Botany Bay 27th to 31st Dec - http://www.hobiecatnationals.com.au.

Might get a Harken for the tool kit just in-case

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Kyle Tiger T 1893

I tried the Spinlock on the mast and after half a season it was letting go to easily. I replaced the Spin lock and it resolved the issue immediately. By another 4 regattas it was malfunctioning again. from frustration I will be changing to a new system. IF anyone has found a better version of Spin lock I would appreciate the info.

Hey Mark good to see you on here.

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Mike Hensel
'86 Hobie 18, '93 Hobie 14, '80 Hobie 14(restso in progress)
Wind in your sails, water in your shoes, great day!