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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:46 am
Posts: 1089
Location: eureka,california
Has anyone had problems with the tiller cross bar connectors on their tiger? I had mine out today and it sheered clean off. The drilled (non adjustable end) snapped in two. We were doing anly a few knots and luckily didn't do any other damage. The boat is not even a year old and these pieces look like plastic holding the end to the tiller?
4- 99220121
: Embout de barre accouplement percé
Tiller crossbar drilled end cap
Anlenkstange-Endstück gebohrt
I believe that is the right part number What should these be made of?

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F-18 5150
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:23 am 
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Mine also broke, but during a nice pitchpole, so probably it was ok. They definitely should not brake during normal sailing.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:11 am 
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These parts are easily tweaked due to the tiller posts being fixed (they don't swivel on the Tiger) So if you lift one side to lock the rudder down...the end piece on the other side is getting bent pretty badly....to keep this from happening be careful not to lift too high on the tiller to lock the rudder down.
We always keep a spare in our gear bag, just in case (or in case someone else at the regatta loses one)
Te part is available through any dealer...and our part number is 40561001 - retail of $9.45ea. (we share many of the components with Europe from our system in the US - same as H16 or H20 tiller X Bar set-up)


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
Jacques - do you know why the tiller end pieces don't swivel on the Tiger? They do on every other boat that has H20-style tiller connectors.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:00 am 
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Hi Matt,

yes I know why....

Reason is the arms on a Tiger are bent in allot - more so than any US spec boat...this give allot of Akriman effect...but it would allow the tiller X Bar to capzise on itself.
The H 20 has a stopper block on the casting to keep the tiller from turning too far - but you can go too far on a Tiger...so if they did swivel you'd have issues.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:03 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
I've wondered this myself.

So not a good idea to put the swivel style on a HCE Europe boat? Or would this be Tiger specific, where something would hit on the Tiger but not on a FXone? Mine are really loose, but haven't broken is why I ask.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:49 pm 
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Hi Karl,
Its the same on all Euro boats - but our parts for the H20 can be used on all parts of Tiger/FX1 boats...just that you lock the swivel part in place - I think Europe goes a little further by actually making it one piece...but you can do the same thing with ours just don't use the washer bearing and lock the nut on the back side tight. (on the tiller end piece)


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:18 pm 
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Location: eureka,california
Are the 20 end pieces aluminum or plastic?

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F-18 5150
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:37 pm 
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The right side end piece (the non adjustible side) is Plastic - always has been


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:18 pm
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Location: League City, Texas, USA
I broke one recently when popping the rudders up before hitting the beach. In this case it was because I was lifting the rudder arm up using the cross bar, which put significant shear stress on the plastic component. I normally get the cams to break loose by pulling up on the rudder arm, but in this case I didn't and managed to break the part. I hadn't broken one of these parts on either the previous Tiger or Hobie 18s which I had converted to the miracle system that uses the same part - so I think the part is strong enough.

Jacques is spot on about why the Tiger cross bar connectors need to be fixed. A friend has an old Tiger and the cross bar connector became free to rotate. It can flip completely upside down, locking up the steering (not desirable). It is possible to stop them rotating by drilling out the rivets that secure them to the rudder arm, set the bolt inside very tight (using thread locking compound such as Loctite) and then riveting them back on.

Chris.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:31 am 
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Location: eureka,california
Would this part last longer if it was solid plastic and held on by a stainless bolt rather than 2 rivets? Do the rivets cous stress fractures in the plastic when they are popped? If i had a piece machined out of aluminum and used that wouls that be class legal? I'm just looking for a better option. Can i use the rotating end piece on just one side to avoid inversion of the x bar?

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Rich Vilvens
F-18 5150
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http://www.sailblogs.com/member/f-185150sailing/


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:28 pm
Posts: 153
Location: sacramento
Hey Rich did you get your new parts yet?I ordered my microblock for jib furler this week.I `will see you two at woodward or whiskeytown,I cant make it to monterey.Talk to you later.
Shawn
82 H18 #8211
div3


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