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 Post subject: Full Batten Jib KIT(?)
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 9:59 am
Posts: 280
Location: Mill Creek, WA
I recently upgraded my roller fuling jib to the new full battened unit.

And whilst I was at it I purchased the forestay kit.

To me a kit means I should expect it to have every thing I need to complete the assembly onto my boat.

It fell short in a couple of areas. :(

1. It was not complete. Two additional mico-blocks, and a spare cleat are required to complete the kit.

2. The rigid stainless extension was shorter than required by 2-3 inches. I only discovered this when I went to tension the shrouds and almost bent the spi pole. I've never seen so much pre-bend in my life! To fix this I added a long shackle at the base to give me the length.
Only by comparing my rig with a new 2008 did we discover that there are two different lengths!

3. There was not a single line included for the luff tension. Only 1/2 of the line needed for the jib halyard. I needed the other half, the luff tension line, and the line for the 2:1 to the cross bar.

It was like buying a new car, and finding out the tires are extra! :roll:

I understand "some assembly required", and "batteries not included".
But maybe a list of parts required to complete the package would have been nice.
Or better yet, a copy of the assembly instructions. And just circle the parts I still need. I wore a path in the lawn walking between the other 2008 to see how it went together.

Just my 2 cents...

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2003 Tiger - Don Atchley


Last edited by OLD SCHOOL 18 on Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:18 pm
Posts: 73
Location: League City, Texas, USA
The shorter strut may be designed for the lower bridle tang position on the very latest hulls. The bridle length is fixed by F18 class rules, so if the tangs are lowered, then the connection point of the bridles to the forestay adjustor is going to be lowered by a corresponding amount.

My Tiger has the tangs on top of the hulls (the older design) and came with a longer strut than those I have seen on the very latest boats.

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 Post subject: Roller furling
PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 6:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:13 pm
Posts: 56
Location: New Orleans, LA
Per F-18 rules, is it OK to take the roller furling drum off and replace it with a stainless plate? I'm going to use the stock bridles.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 9:59 am
Posts: 280
Location: Mill Creek, WA
flumpmaster wrote:
The shorter strut may be designed for the lower bridle tang position on the very latest hulls. The bridle length is fixed by F18 class rules, so if the tangs are lowered, then the connection point of the bridles to the forestay adjustor is going to be lowered by a corresponding amount.

My Tiger has the tangs on top of the hulls (the older design) and came with a longer strut than those I have seen on the very latest boats.


My boat is a 2003, and has the tangs on top of the hulls like yours. Your logic is good, except that my kit came with a shorter strut. And I was comparing to a new 2008 model, which had the longer strut.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
Posts: 999
I think Europe is planning on going away from the strut - as the only thing it does for you is make it easy to rig a luff tension-er (which you can still do without the strut - just tie the block with another line to the left side bridle) - but most guys (including Mitch and Darren) use just spectra line to tie the pole up...just as before with the furler - we'll see what they do in the future, but I have a feeling the strut is going bye-bye


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