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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:43 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:18 am
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Hi,
I am looking at a used bravo tomorrow and I have a few question that I am hoping that can be answered in a short time.

1. The boat has a crack in the plastic at the upper pintle and what appears to be a small deformation on the side of the hull. I can do the plastic weld, but I am curious if the pintle is attached to a plate that secures both upper and lower or if the nuts are just in the plastic with no backing plate.

2. The sail shows some sun fading where the color is gone the outside of the leech edge and on the foot. Can the sail loose its color without having significant effect on the performance of the sail. Ofcourse if the threads are separating I'll walk away.

3. It's a 2003 model and saw lots of time in the sun is there anything specific I should look for regarding sun damage. Also, are parts readily available for this older boat and is it possible to upgrade the early parts to the later parts if I need to in the future.

The boat also has a boom kit and the asking price is $500. I think its a good deal, it's 1 1/2 hnours from my house, so I am seeking an experienced opinion before I take the drive.

Please see the photos and thanks in advance for answering

UPDATE: I bought the boat and posted a second reply to this message, but it has not been approved yet....

I will be plastic welding the crack, ordering a few parts and I will continue to post here with my repair progress. I asked a question in my next post, so hopefully it will appear soon.

-Rob
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Last edited by tradisrad on Wed Mar 12, 2014 12:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 7:47 pm 
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Well I drove out to Stockton CA, crime capitol of the state, this morning and checked out the bravo. Everything was as good as could be expected and for $450 I loaded it up and made it out alive.

One thing that has me puzzled is the mast float has water in i and I can't figure out how to drain it. It seems to be totally sealed and I even removed a set of the attachment strap screws to no avail on draining it. There appears to be a hot glue "plug" in the bottom of the float and I am thinking of drilling and draining. Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:41 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Also appears to have a crack in the transom? You can try plastic welding.

We add drain plugs now, to you could do the same. Drill and place a screw in the hole.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 9:13 am 
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I've made a lot of progress on getting the boat ready to sail.
I disassembled and cleaned the rudder assy and it now works smoothly.
Image

I plastic welded the crack in the transom. I embedded some screen into the plastic to act as "rebar", sorry no picture of the rebar. The weld is not pretty, but I expect it to last. I used a plastic welding iron and a heat gun that I adapted a funnel to in order to narrow the flow of hot air.
Before:
Image
Welded: I did sand the weld to make it look a little better than it looks in the photo. Unfortunately the iron tends to burn the plastic and discolors it as a result.
Image

I drained the mast float and installed a screw to plug it.

I replaced all 4 lifting handles and will install new hiking pads (2 of the 4 are new) this morning.

All lines have been replaced. However I do have a question about the bungee that tensions the righting line. I attached both ends of the bungee to the righting line, but I don't think this is correct. May someone describe or post a photo of the proper attachment?

The old Viking hatches don't seems to seal and I don't want to drop $100 on the upgrade hatches. Who has a solution for this? I was thinking of finding large o-rings or cutting a neoprene gasket.

I hope to get it on the water today if we get some afternoon wind.

Update: We got the Bravo on the water last night (12/2/13) and we are really happy with our purchase.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:25 pm
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Location: Southern IN
tradisrad wrote:
However I do have a question about the bungee that tensions the righting line. I attached both ends of the bungee to the righting line, but I don't think this is correct. May someone describe or post a photo of the proper attachment?


One end of the bungee should have a pulley, the other a loop. The forward port underside hiking strap goes through the loop, bungie feeds into the pulley on the rear hull near the back (inside), then the righting line runs through the pulley on the end of the bungie.

Image

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2008 Bravo


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:44 pm 
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I hope you did not tip your boat over for me!
That is just what I was looking for. Thanks

A friend suggested that I install a metal plate on the out side of the boat connecting the top and bottom pintels to help prevent the stress on the upper pintle and possible re-cracking or failure of the plastic weld. There is a metal plate on the inside and adding one to the outside makes a lot of sense and I think it will really secure the rudder/mainsheet connection. The boat I bought was left outside and I think the main sheet was always attached and taunt and I am guessing that this force is what led to the crack.
edit 12/6/13. I added an aluminum plate to the outside of the transom.
Image

I am looking to upgrade the tendon between the tiller and extension. I've seen a few ideas from the Wave crowd, but nothing for the early Bravos; it looks like the issues was solved with the post 2004 bravos. Has anyone done such a mod?
I upgraded my tiller extension tendon to a yoke and hinge. I used the existing tiller handle and had a friend machine a bushing to fit in the tendon hole. I then attached Hobie yoke p/n 3205 to the tiller handle using my new bushing a 5/16" bolt. The extension was made from a 1/2" aluminum tube (no racing, so no rules to worry about) and this was bolted to a Hobie standard hinge p/n 10532010. I placed some plastic washers between the hinge and yoke to remove any slop. I now have a tight tiller extension.
Here is a picture of the bushing with the yoke:
Image

And the assembly:
Image


Last edited by tradisrad on Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:25 pm
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Location: Southern IN
Nice repair!

That pic was from years ago, the first day I had it out. I'm a big believer in flipping one's boat early, and often.

Is that a harbor freight trailer in the last pic?

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2008 Bravo


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:38 am 
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Yes, it is a Harbor Freight trailer, 4x8. The boat just fits inside the fenders. I am planning on adding some sort of bunks and I also want to make some ramp to slide the boat on & off.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:04 am
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Nice post!


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