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 Post subject: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:01 pm
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Recently, I rigged a second trap wire for the helmsman on my SC, but I'm not completely happy with the results. The cable is a bit long, and I can't move too far aft without being pulled forward due to the angle of the wire. My rig consists of a 22' cable that runs from the upper mast tang (where the jennaker is attached) to an 8' shock cord that I ran through the rear crossbar. I know the cable is too long, because when I'm positioned about 3' forward of the rear crossbar, the J & H handle is right up against the end of the trap wire. If I move any further aft, I run into the problem of being pulled forward.

Any suggestions? What has worked for you guys?

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 Post subject: Re: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 8:46 am 
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
OK, I've got two solutions. Well, three ... maybe. My trap wire for the skipper went through the trampoline about the middle of the wing, so about three feet further forward than yours. Probably doesn't make much difference but on cats you want to keep the weight forward when racing. I probably had grommets put there for the shock cord.

The real trick is to make the length of the trap wire adjustable. And have lots of rake in the mast and brace your front leg to keep from being pulled forward. The complicated adjustment has a jammer on the end of the trap wire and a loop with a ball on the end for you to adjust how high you are.
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... gory_Code=

Or you can replace the J & H handles with a dogbone. Hurts more when it flips into your teeth but you can hook into the little ring normally and then shift to the loop, to get yourself lower down, or actually the same hight but further back when you want to go back there.
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... gory_Code=


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 Post subject: Re: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Thanks BigWhoop!

That Hi-Low system looks like a pretty good idea. Maybe I'll rig something like that up if I have any problems after shortening the cable. I'm probably over thinking this whole thing anyway, since I can't think of anytime I've needed 2 people hiked out with our weight all the way back.

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 Post subject: Re: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:23 am 
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 5:22 am
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
trbenning,through the rear cross bar???
On my 21SE the trapeze shock cord runs behind the wing seat and through a grommet on the tramp.When I added my third trapeze wire,I also had to add a third grommet on my tramp for it to pass through.I can't remember if that third grommet was punched about a foot behind the other two grommets or a foot forward of those existing grommets.
I have two hi-low adjustable trapezes and a third non adjustable trapeze wire per side and the adjustable ones are so much easier to use and get nearly all the use.I have always wanted to replace that non adjustable trapeze with the hi-low system,just have not spent that money yet.I have had three people trapped out and me sitting aft on the wing with the hot stick and main sheet, holding my cat from flipping many times in high wind.

Think white caps with little whirlwinds of mist flying everywhere...... :P

Bill 404 21SE

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 Post subject: Re: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:04 pm 
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Bill 404 wrote:
trbenning,through the rear cross bar???

Too far back I take it? :lol: I put it there, because I usually sit pretty far back since it's close to the beer holder in the wing. :D I was thinking that I should move it forward though, since I'm never hiked out that far aft anyway. Might as well be in the right position to start with.

I haven't been out in too many gales yet, so I'm still trying to get the feel for this rocket. It's quite a change from the monohulls I was used to sailing. :oops:

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 Post subject: Re: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:32 am
Posts: 288
I don't think anyone sailing in the ProSail series used any sort of adjustable trap setup other than the stock one that you don't adjust under sail. Your attachment point up high doesn't sound right. Mast rake with stock lengths of wires shows the adjuster in the furler flush at the bottom.

Straight out from the shroud you should be trapped out really flat. You hook in and your butt has to drop down a bit over the side. When you need to move back, as in upwind when you need to travel out and foot in a blow, or flying the kite in a blow, you are of course standing more upright than when at the shrouds, but it's still not bad. A lot of us have two footstraps back there for this purpose-one for the back foot of each crew. The footstraps add a lot of security in waves, even if you don't put a foot in one, but just up against it.

I rigged our shockcord up under the wing mostly to get more stuff out of the way on the tramp for handling the chute, but it added the benefit of giving less pull against the trap rig. I used 3/16" shockcord, dead ended on one end of the wing up above the wing tramp lacing. At the opposite end is a micro block that it 180s around coming back to another micro block tied to one of the inner grommets, and exiting to the outside of the wing under the outer tube. I think the crew's is in front of the shroud, and skipper's behind the shroud.

It simplifies rigging and unrigging too. The trap adjuster lines are untied from the eyes in the shockcord, and the shockcord just stays in place in the wing. I use two of the trap wires to pull the mast up with an A-frame on the trailer, and for trailering they are just coiled up and tied to the main tramp lacing.


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 Post subject: Re: 2nd Trap Wire
PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:01 pm 
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Thanks Tom. That's very helpful. I love the idea of running the shock cord through the wing. I'll definitely add that to my list of winter projects. :D

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