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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 4:22 pm 
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This is the jib that was in some of the pics that matches the main. Jib looks like it is in good shape, no tears just really, really dirty. Shame.........
The main is a smyth sail but this one looks like it is a calvert even though they both look the same

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 4:24 pm 
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I was thinking like $800 for everything, that sounds like a deal but not sure ! Need the funds to finish this project!! I will delivery to a shipper and you make the shipping arrangements.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 4:27 pm 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
The "foot" of your jib sail looks shorter than a Hobie 21SE jib.That sail was most likely made to work with the self tacting jib set up.
Bill 40421SE

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 4:36 pm 
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Bill
Is that something I need to tell whirlwind about so the Jib comes out correct or will it work either way? Thanks
Kenny


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:20 pm 
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Whirlwind knows how to build standard 21SE sails but do let them know what you have and ask for their advise.Get out your tape measure and verify the size of each sail too.
Communication is the key,Bill 404 21SE :)

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 6:34 pm 
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yeah just talked to Chip and he has asked me to get the measurements of the jib that was on it so he can compare. Thanks Bill!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 4:17 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
yellowskeeter wrote:
saber jib that looks like it has the roller as part of it. Looks in good shape and matches the spin with no tears or repairs:


That's not a jib. It's a Hooter or Screacher- basically a high aspect roller furling spinnaker. You can use it upwind in very light wind, but once the wind comes up it will only work downwind. It's made from light weight spinnaker cloth and is intended to be flown from the end of the spinnaker pole.

The mainsail looks like it's shot. When the mylar backing delaminates from the sail, there's no way to repair it, the sail is basically done.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 5:43 am 
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Thanks SM. I ne'er have heard of a hooter or scratched so I learning quick. That is a shame on the main, well at least someone might be able to use the battens. To bad no one makes a big piece of clear tape Mylar since other than that is looks very usable and non of the cross threads are damagaed.

Does any one have a picture of the bottom pin for the mast? Seems like that part is missing and the parts manual does not show a picture. Need to figure out where to get one. Might be able to find something close if I had dimensions as well. Thanks
Kenny


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 6:40 am 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
The pin at the base of your mast is 1/4" round by 2 1/4" long excluding it's head.If you get a 1/4" round stainless steel rod and cut it to 2 1/2" long or so than drill a hole on both ends(right by the ends) for a split ring it should work.The factory one would be better as it will less likely catch the jib sheet during a tact( on one side only) if you don't use an preventor bungee that keep that space protected somewhat your jib sheet.
Build your self one or two to use now and also order one and build a relationship with your local Hobie dealer.
Good day,Bill 404 21SE

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:47 pm 
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Ok, got the video for stepping the mast today and looks pretty straight forward. Anyone have a diagram picture that shows a built 21 and where all the cables go and what they are called? I have downloaded everything I can find but have yet to see a diagram like that. Thanks
Kenny


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 4:45 pm 
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I found my original illustrated parts guide (#8721-3000) and it shows the mast Clevis Pin:0802-0611 and Ring Pkg 5:20860005.I hope that helps you. :)
Bill 404 21SE

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:29 am 
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Thanks Bill!

Ok, stepped the mast this weekend ( hope that it the correct terminology) to start really seeing what I need, don't need, and need to clean up. Process was really easy after seeing the video form the original owner and achieved it myself in about 15 minutes.

Questions:
1) On the picture with the boom, what is that big bolt hanging down? I have never seen this before
2) on the picture with the lines, owner has these ropes hanging down that are supposed to go around the mast to what he said "shape" the sail? Never saw this before and looks overly complicated so I am planning on removing. Are these necessary since Ihave looked at most videos on the netr and can't find another 21 se with these on. I really want simplicity and ease of use, this looks really bulky in the video and seems to be in the way when he is raising/lowering the sails.

Thanks
Kenny

Stepped:

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Boom:

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Lines:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 5:19 am 
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Kenny,
1.I don't know what that bolt is but it does look dangerous.
2.At the mast base,a mast rotation bar has been added to be the boom vang
system lower hookup.It could be helpful,but I have no experience with it.

The boat looks nice. :D ,Bill

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 6:37 pm 
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Thanks for the info.
Started getting all the hulls cleaned up and holes patched from the brackets to get it ready for paint.

I see the hobie I supposes to weigh 600 lbs. Is thatast and all? I am re doing the trailer with new axles tires and springs and seeing what everyone's set up is? Trailer has what looked to be a 1500 lbs axle with 3 leas slipper springs so that should be 1200 pound springs. Thinking about turning it tandem by adding a two 1200 pound axles, springs and tires. What does your set up look like? Also thinking about doing the fiberglass cradles instead of the rollers? Looks like the hull sides get rubbed pretty good by the side rollers. Any input on this? Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:10 pm 
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Location: Lake Gaston, NC
I'd ditch the boom vang too. You don't need it. Cats have wide travelers. My mainsheet won't even come close to letting the boom all the way out by design so I don't have a mile of mainsheet to handle and keep on the boat. Higher with jibing is almost always faster than dead down anyway.

Yeah, you had the right idea about those loops around the boom. Get rid of them.

What are the blocks on the decks mounted on wooden pieces for?

Looks like someone had some very different ideas about rigging. Mine has some individual ideas too, but they are mainly to clear the deck-like the trap shockcords are rigged inside, underneath the wings and only come out the outside so there is one less thing to worry about getting tangled up in.

Simple is plenty good enough on these boats.


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