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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2013 4:25 am
Posts: 3
Hi guys,

Any tips on getting the wheels underneath the i12s or even worst the i14s after a long day of kayaking?

What a pain in the butt!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:12 pm
Posts: 183
Location: Columbia, MD
I feel your pain. No magic solution to offer other than what you're probaby already doing.

The simplest technique is to drag the boat on shore, tilt it on it's side, install cart & tilt back on wheels (this puts a lot of stress on the drivewell BTW). This doesn't work for me.

I have a bad leg & back so I avoid lifting the boat as much as possible. I also fish so my boat has a lot of gear that doesn't allow it to be tilted on the side unless I can unload it first (rare occurance). I want the cart installed in the water so I can wheel the boat right out.

I get the boat about knee shallow. Grab the cart crossbar with one hand, put the other hand through the mirage drive well. Slide the cart sideways under the boat until you can grab the crossbar through the drivewell. With the now free hand, I place my thumb in one of the "sockets" in the drivewell & grab the corresponding cart "strut" with my fingers. Guide fingers/strut to thumb/socket & start tilting cart down until strut just starts to seat, then swing the cart so that the other strut can also start to seat in the socket. Tilt down cart to complete. I find this easier than trying to get both struts lined up at the same time, but to each his own. I also have ape-like hands so that probably helps :).


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
I hold the cart in my right hand. Step next to the kayak, using the side handle I tip the boat onto its side and insert the cart. I find that to be pretty easy. You are not lifting the kayak and can lean it against your leg while you insert the cart if needed.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:59 am
Posts: 530
mmiller wrote:
I hold the cart in my right hand. Step next to the kayak, using the side handle I tip the boat onto its side and insert the cart. I find that to be pretty easy. You are not lifting the kayak and can lean it against your leg while you insert the cart if needed.


2X, but it is easier if the yak is empty at the time.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 1332
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
I prefer to use the foam filled 'tuff' tires over the grey balloon tires, ( I have both) they are easier to get under the boat just off shore. I hold the cart by the leg in my right hand, slip the cart under th boat so it is horizontal with the wheels floating up against the bottom of the kayak. I then find th scupper hole with my left hand and pull the cart forward and guide the end into the hole. It always slips right in and floats up. It's a little harder with the balloon tires unless you fill the tires 1/3 full of water or slime to make the balloon tires less bouyant. You can get slime at Walmart in the bike department ( it's a green goo that you put in the tires to prevent leaks.
I usually remove the mirage drives, raise the rudder, and put the cart in just off shore then roll the boat out of the water up to my car. But I live in Florida and the water is always warm.
I store the scupper cart upside down in the rear scupper holes on my TI.
Bob


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 5:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 5:38 am
Posts: 218
The easiest method is while the vessel is still in the water - doing anything on shore with a cart is not easy solo. If everything is strapped down, then the tilt method works fine but in the water is the easiest and the fastest way.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:12 pm
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Location: Columbia, MD
BTW, if you haven't already noticed, you can install the cart on the inflatables without removing the mirage drive. Just get the fins flat to the bottom of the hull & bungee a strut. Obviously this only applies to the tilt method! Saves stowing the drive.

Tilting the boat with a crate, rods, cooler, etc. in the back is an impossibility for me. Getting everything strapped tight enough to keep it from shifting on an inflatable would deform the cells! I find you can't get things nearly as tight as on the rotomold boats.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 3:02 pm
Posts: 27
I've gone the route of the wheeleze cart with the balloon tires. No need to plug into the holes. The Kayak will rest on the stand. I permanently attached (with eye bolts) straps on each of the legs on the cart. One side has the metal buckle with the tightener. I have a buckle on each side of the cart. Lift up the kayak enough to place the cart somewhere around and under the seat (it doesn't have to be exact). I then insert the belt into the buckle and cinch the straps tight around the pontoons and good to go; it never comes loose. It allows for some leeway when placing underneath. Sometimes it takes a little adjusting or positioning but it doesn't seem to be a big deal.

The straps are about 5 feet in length each, 1 inch wide and came with the metal buckle. It was a 12 foot strap that I shortened and was cutting in half anyway (to attach one end on each side of the axle of cart) enough to come from the aluminum tube of the cart axle, around the pontoon to just past the middle of the kayak. I have the opposite strap (with buckle) coming from the other axle and it also comes up and over a little over halfway. Connect the strap to buckle and cinch down.

I will put the wheels under the kayak, connect the straps loosely. Put the crate on etc. and then tighten down. This can be done in the water or on shore either way.

I keep the straps (permanently attached to the legs)all bundled up and secure and neat with small gear ties when not strapped on to the kayak.


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