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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:07 pm
Posts: 331
Location: Saint Johns, Florida
I put the wedge in my TI and now I can reef with no problem from the rear cockpit but it is very hard to release the line and let the sail out from there. I also didn't use any Locktite the first time and pulled the cleat out one day.

After taking a rasp to the wedge and cutting down the angle a bit it works better but not perfect. I'm 6'3" and I have a hard time getting the line high enough for a clean release. How would a shorter person get it to release?

The extra pulleys to bring it back on the port side sure look good to me.

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Jerry D.
St. Johns, Florida
2010 TI
2008 AI


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 175
Location: Camas, WA
Seems to me adding a second cleat for the Furling Line on the rear Aka would allow the choice of front or rear furling depending on where the skipper plans to sit for that particular day. Probably also want to put a fairlead on the front Aka to keep the Furling line neat.

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It's a good Life, Let's sail!

iHop

Dune TI - 6/4/2011
Camas, WA


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 2:31 pm
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Location: Kailua 96734
My shoulder's kinda tore up, so I'm looking to get much smoother action on the T3's furling line while still using the standard starboard cleat.

Was planning to add an extreme angle fairlead and a Harken block in front of the cleat.

I recall someone has done this on the starboard side (not Kayakmans mod with several port side blocks).

Can anyone point me to that info? Would you just add an H233 micro cheek block in front of the furling cleat, as Hobie did with the mainsheet :?:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:02 am
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
NOHUHU wrote:
My shoulder's kinda tore up, so I'm looking to get much smoother action on the T3's furling line while still using the standard starboard cleat.

Was planning to add an extreme angle fairlead and a Harken block in front of the cleat.

I recall someone has done this on the starboard side (not Kayakmans mod with several port side blocks).

Can anyone point me to that info? Would you just add an H233 micro cheek block in front of the furling cleat, as Hobie did with the mainsheet :?:


Actually, that was what I did first. The only holes I've drilled into the boat that I regret drilling are the holes holes for a cheek block on the starboard side. I don't remember much about it except that I filled the holes about a week later. I think it didn't work as well as I had hoped but may fit your application...

J

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2011 Golden Papaya TI with a 250 square foot spinnaker!
also a more manageable 100 square foot spinny...
&
the TI3 rear ama mod


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:36 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Thanks J. We only want to do this once. ;-)

I'll get 2 blocks so we can try out 90+90 degrees angles. This may work better, as with your first 2 blocks..

We already have matching sheet and furling cleats for the front and rear T3 seats so the lines can be fed along the right side cleats to either sailor.

When I fly out on the Hakas, the sheet angles and pressure can be intense. Furling and locking the cleats has not been as easy as I would like.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:00 am 
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
I looked at the boat to refresh my memory... I went with two blocks in order to create a direct line from the pulley to the furling drum. With just one block there was an increased chance of binding the furling line under the drum. If you put the pulley on a 1/2"block I think it should work fine.
J

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2011 Golden Papaya TI with a 250 square foot spinnaker!
also a more manageable 100 square foot spinny...
&
the TI3 rear ama mod


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 2:31 pm
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Location: Kailua 96734
I see your point. I'll noodle with it soon and keep this in mind.

Thanks KMan.


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