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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:18 am 
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Looking good there John. You may be the first to use spineboards as haka Downunder! 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:18 am 
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My V3 Haka.
With the idea of soloing the TI I wanted longer haka than the aluminium foam sandwich, but not as long as the 2.3m ladder haka. In tests I've done it seems the optimum solo position on the TI is hiking out about opposite the rear drivewell. I decided on a 2m length as giving the best cantilever, whilst still allowing paddling from the rear seat.
I wanted to make these as light as possible but still comfortable and able to use the tinny bench seats I already had.
After searching my local hardware superstore I came away with these:
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At 2m long and powder coated, the main support 40mm slat screen extrusions felt strong enough and the 20mm box channel was a perfect fit inside.
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Cutting the 20mm channel into 13 pieces gives enough support for the tinny cushions. Every 4th bar is double rivetted to add bracing.
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S/S press studs underneath secure the cushions
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I kept the same mounting options using tube clips at the rear
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and padded hooks at the front,
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but I've tried to improve the padding by using foam strips, covered by glue-lined heatshrink:
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Haven't had a chance to solo them yet but they work well in tandem
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Specs:
2m long x 30cm wide, just under 3kg for the aluminium ladder frame and 3kg for the cushions. (I replaced the open cell foam with closed cell foam)
So a set of comfortable, strong and maintenance free haka at 6kg each. Cost around $80 a side (aluminium only, no cushions).
Oh, I almost forgot ...and no chance of splinters! :wink:


Last edited by stringy on Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:14 pm 
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Impressive--nice work, Stringy. I've never gotten a splinter on my wood akas either!

Keith

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Last edited by Chekika on Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:44 pm 
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Very practical approach Stringy. What you are achieving is very close to a "TI3" sailing position. The hooks and clips should hold but don't stand out there.

Extending Hakas beyond the rear bar makes sense. From a boat trim perspective, any protrusion forward is a waste of material, endless you use the space for storage.

Hoping this will work out and be safe for "big-boned" TI sailors, too.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 11:58 pm 
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Hey Stringy,

I'm liking the look of these V3 hakas - did you get the parts from Bunnings?

Can you show a bit more detail of how you riveted the cross-pieces into place?

As for the padded seat you have on the top - where did you source that?

Cheers,

Mike.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:40 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Thanks for the comments Keith and Nohuhu.
Chekika wrote:
I've never gotten a splinter on my wood akas either!
Keith

Give it time Keith ...give it time! :wink:
Oh alright, I'll have to stop having a dig at the wooden haka. I'm just jealous of how good they look.

NOHUHU wrote:
The hooks and clips should hold but don't stand out there.


Sorry, I can't hear you Nohuhu. "My Heart Will Go On" is blaring on the stereo.
Image
Hang on a sec, I'll just get off and turn it down.
Now what was that again? :)


Last edited by stringy on Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 2:11 am 
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mingle wrote:
Hey Stringy,
- did you get the parts from Bunnings?
Can you show a bit more detail of how you riveted the cross-pieces into place?
As for the padded seat you have on the top - where did you source that?
Cheers,
Mike.


Here you go Mike, and yes I got it all from Bunnings.
The main 'stringers' are these, and at our local Bunnings they are actually in the timber trade section
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The rungs are in the DIY slat screen section. Bunnings don't have a pic but you need the Protector Aluminium 20x20X2000mm Slat End Rail Channel x2 @ $8:10 each FOUND NEXT TO THESE (DO NOT GET THE 25MM THEY WON'T FIT):
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The end rungs and 2 other rungs are double rivetted
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and have spacers (1.6mm and 3mm flat bar aluminium) added for strength to bridge the gap of the stringer return.
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The rest of the rungs are just single rivetted.
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The cushions I got ages ago from BCF, but I wouldn't recommend them. I've replaced the OPEN cell foam pads with closed cell (cut up camping mats and a yoga mat) and the original press studs which rusted out with S/S studs.
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If I hadn't already done this I would have come up with a lighter padding system, maybe using webbing and closed cell foam.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:41 pm 
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Nice, Stringy. Those look more comfortable than my bed at home.

Good details of the construction.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:36 pm 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
That design is so neat & cheap. Well done. I also like the heat shrink :idea: Nice touch.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:24 am 
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It took a while for the local lobster gear supplier to get my special order made up, but I finally picked up my lobster trap wire panels on Saturday morning. By barbeque time on Sunday, I had new hakas built and tested (on land). They seem quite comfortable and solid. Now I need a hiking stick.

The price was right - $22 per 2x7 foot panel. Including the j-clips to fasten the seams, 8 feet of 1 inch poly pipe for hooks to attach them to the akas, and plastic zip-ties to attach the hooks, the price was $62.23 total for the pair.

They support my 240 pounds with 1 ½ inches of deflection in the center over a 58 inch span. I don’t think I’ll be spending a lot of time sitting there – it’s too springy. Closer to the aka, and cantilevered behind it, they are solid.

Image


Here’s the raw material – 10 gauge welded steel in a 1 ½ inch grid pattern, galvanized and vinyl coated to withstand years of rough treatment and total submersion in salt water. I had the pipe bender left over from a previous project, so I tried to use it to shape the panels.

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Here’s the bent panel, before I closed the seam.
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I found the pipe bender harder to use than a hammer used as a lever. I had to bend it in small increments, wire by wire. It took a couple of hours and a lot of sweat to get it shaped, and I broke a few welds before I figured out how hard I could push the material.


These are the fasteners – aluminum j-clips I bought from the same lobster-trap supply store. I used a crimping tool that I had left-over from yet another project.
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Zip-ties held the seam temporarily while I applied the j-clips. I felt the finished product was not stiff enough, so I changed the shape to put more of a right angle at the seam, and applied a j-clip to each cell. I had initially put one every second cell, thinking to save weight. The clips are so light, that it makes little difference to the total weight.
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I flattened the poly pipe by heating it in a toaster oven, then clamping the pipe between a couple of boards. The pipe self-adheres shortly after it becomes pliable. I’m not sure what it’s made of, but it is not as neat to work with as PVC. These are the finished hooks. The rounded one goes in the front and the right-angle goes in the rear. Two of each per haka:
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Each haka weighs 13.2 pounds.
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Here is the unloaded haka spanning 58 inches:
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And here it is with me sitting on it in the center, feet off the ground. It’s a very awkward measurement holding the camera in one hand, while balancing with your feet in the air, and trying to hold steady while taking a selfie of your private area. I could have tried setting up the camera on a support, and using a timer, but I was getting self-conscious.
Image


The finished product has the look I wanted. I’ll let you know how they work after I get my new hiking stick and some wind.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 2:29 pm 
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stringy wrote:
Thanks for the comments Keith and Nohuhu.
Chekika wrote:
I've never gotten a splinter on my wood akas either!
Keith

Give it time Keith ...give it time! :wink:
Oh alright, I'll have to stop having a dig at the wooden haka. I'm just jealous of how good they look.

NOHUHU wrote:
The hooks and clips should hold but don't stand out there.


Sorry, I can't hear you Nohuhu. "My Heart Will Go On" is blaring on the stereo.
Image
Hang on a sec, I'll just get off and turn it down.
Now what was that again? :)
But have you done the FULL test? :lol:



(And THAT, friends is post #1000 to this thread. A new record, I believe. Mahalo Nui to everyone who has spilled their creative guts on this great topic.)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:00 pm 
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:lol:
I think if I tried that I'd end up with a deep V haka!
Wood rules!
(I can't believe I just said that.)

A big thanks to you Nohuhu for getting this post going. 8)
I reckon it's been the most interesting on this forum. The Haka have improved Island sailing dramatically, as well as giving us better camping/sleeping on board options.
Just brilliant! :D
I can't work out why Hobie themselves have not added Haka to their accessory range yet. :?


Last edited by stringy on Wed Jul 23, 2014 4:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:25 pm 
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Slaughter wrote:
That design is so neat & cheap. Well done. I also like the heat shrink :idea: Nice touch.

Thanks mate. I got tired of replacing the sticky backed foam/insulation tape every couple of trips. At around $160/pair for the aluminium I wouldn't exactly call them cheap. Your cable tray haka is cheap along with Jim's lobster trap haka.



JimGraham wrote:
Nice, Stringy. Those look more comfortable than my bed at home.

Good details of the construction.
...and now I need a hiking stick.

Thanks Jim and ditto to you re construction details. You certainly have come up with a unique design! They would have very little wind resistance. 8)
You know you could be the first with a themed haka/hiking stick combo if you went with this
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...and if there are any lobsters around you'd have a multi-use haka/ hiking stick combo! :wink:

Seriously though, what are you considering for a hiking stick? I've tried quite a few over the years but the most effective have used an over the counter tendon specifically designed for the purpose and available from most chandlers.
From top genuine Hobie, Aluminium tube with golf stick handle, fishing rod.
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They are designed to go over a modified tiller handle
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PS- Make sure you carry your haka receipt with you. It could save some anxious on water moments if you come across lobster fishermen wondering where you got them! :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 7:31 pm 
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Thanks for the advice, Stringy. I was thinking that Hobie's hiking stick at $61 is not too expensive, and would probably hold up better than anything I could make. That lobster trapping stick you pointed out IS tempting, and I could save a few bucks.

I moved here to the Boston area from Canada 15 years ago, and brought my cross-country skis with me. There has never been enough snow to support that hobby, hence the 240 pounds my haka has to support. I used one of the aluminum ski poles to control the rudder on my sailing canoe, and it is holding up ok. The other one is still available.

I saw the connection end of the Hobie hiking stick as a simple rubber tube with a screw to fit the hole in the tiller handle. I did not realize that there were purpose-built components for that job. For that matter, I had to google "chandler".

I was thinking that I'd try to cobble something together this weekend, to use while I wait for delivery of the real thing from my Hobie dealer. I'll have a look in the local marine supply stores before I resort to the home hardware store.

What do you think? Is the Hobie stick worth it? I know it would be more fun to make my own, but there's no reason I can't have two (or three, like you).

I'll second your shout out to Nohuhu. This is a very interesting forum. Thanks, Nohuhu, for getting us going.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:16 pm 
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Jim,
I was a fan of Hobie's stick ...until it broke when I was away on a camping trip and I had to return with no hiking stick. It's probably a better idea to continue this discussion in that post found here
viewtopic.php?f=75&t=50285
I've been meaning to update it and will do so later tonight.


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