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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Hey Stringy,

Just a quick question about your seat-pads (I haven't dug back through this thread to see if you've documented it already).

What did you use to strengthen the underside of the cushion/seat-pad?

I've noticed that BCF have the 1200mm seat pads on special for only $25, so thought I might grab a couple.

I was also going to give your 'ladder-bar' hakas a go, so any advice on how to add some strength to the cushions
to prevent them from slipping through the gaps, that would be great.

Cheers,

Mike.


Last edited by mingle on Fri Aug 01, 2014 5:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:19 pm 
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Mike, I would just add a piece of 2mm thick marine ply under the cushion.

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www.scenefromabove.com.au


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 11:29 pm 
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At $25 those BCF seat pads are worth it. You would pay a lot more than that to have the vinyl covers made. I swapped out the open cell foam pads for closed cell which doesn't need any extra support. I cut these to fit
Image
and added a layer of softer yoga mat on top for comfort. I think I used 3 layers of the foam mats. The vinyl cover when clipped on adds to the support. Just be prepared to replace the press studs for S/S down the track.
You could of course add ply as Tony suggested or plastic sheeting, real estate signs etc, but I was after the lightest weight haka I could make that was still comfortable.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 5:37 pm 
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Thanks again for the info Stringy...

I (sorry!) have another couple of quick questions:

1: Where did you get those 'pipe-clamps' that attach the haka to the rear akas?

2: On my A.I. the front and rear akas aren't exactly parallel - they're about 23mm closer together
at the hull crossbars than at the ama attachment 'sockets'. Is this something you've noticed when
aligning or mounting the hakas?

Cheers,

Mike.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:45 pm 
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Mike,
1: Narrow Base Tube Holders. 38mm. Available from Bias Boating, Whitworths or any decent Chandlery for round $3 each.
2: I don't think any aka are parallel. Mine certainly aren't. The hooks allow a bit of leeway. I set mine up to fit where the brace bar/aka attachment is in the middle of the haka. That way you can move them in or out to suit.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:03 am 
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The foam mats above are just as versatile and useful for us Islanders as pool noodles. My hakas are wrapped in them and they make the perfect mats in the camp kitchen.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 4:02 pm 
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Mike - you could rivet one or two strips of 1.6mm ali strip length ways on top of the rungs, this would also prevent cushion fall-through. I would then just add the closed-cell foam and cable tie (or bungy lace) onto the ladder.

stringy - what benefits do you see in v3 versus the original 'ladder' based hakas? To me, the ladder looks easier, if somewhat uglier (also asymmetrical)

I'm about to start something like this for my vintage AI. I also want to tie in a wing, to let the little bloke move around easy.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 9:47 pm 
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Deefa,
The V3 haka are noticeably lighter and less bulky. They don't sit as high on top of the aka and are better looking IMHO ...though not as attractive as wood! Being powder coated they should look better for longer as well.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:25 am 
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I also like the idea of using a surfboard, or in this case a SUP:

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=52724

This strikes me as an incredibly simple idea, with the added advantage that if they fall off, they'll float!

Mike.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 12:30 pm 
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Where did you get that center board?

Does it go in the mirage drive slot?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:53 pm 
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stringy wrote:
Deefa,
The V3 haka are noticeably lighter and less bulky. They don't sit as high on top of the aka and are better looking IMHO ...though not as attractive as wood! Being powder coated they should look better for longer as well.
Thanks.
What sort of rivet gun did you use? I only have a little one, not sure it will pull those chunky rivets I see in your pics.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:08 pm 
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The rivets were 3/16 aluminium so any rivet gun should be able to handle it but a two handed rivetter makes the job easier.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:12 pm 
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mingle wrote:
I also like the idea of using a surfboard, or in this case a SUP:

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=52724

This strikes me as an incredibly simple idea, with the added advantage that if they fall off, they'll float!

Mike.


The issues I see with SUP's are their weight, expense, windage and how to attach them over tramps.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 3:59 am 
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Following from Chekika's excellent R&D with the miniskirts, I have now commenced production (to order) of some to his design (see below), with a few modifications.
Image

    Stainless steel grommets on each corner
    1000# test Hobie kevlar lines (with bungee tensioner loops at the bow)
    SS "D" shackle attaches to bow padeye
    Loop attaches to hatch catches
    Rear and outer lines both attach to the front mesh pocket, allowing amas to be folded.
    No holes needed in hull

Selling a pair in black or grey shademesh ready tro fit for $A 140 plus postage.

PM me for details
PS. I am off on a 3 week 3,000 mile trip to the outback from next week, but can at least get the skirts sewn up in my absence to expedite delivery on my return
Image
(He hasn't added the cradles for his PA14 yet)

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM"
www.scenefromabove.com.au


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:29 am 
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Congratulations, Tony! Have a great trip.

Keith

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