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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:04 pm 
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Usually, landing big fish has never been a problem for me; however, I do fish with only a single haka just as you do with your single tramp. You would not have a single tramp to throw it on, but you could slide over onto the one haka and pull the "big fish" into the cockpit. Or some variation of that.

Keith

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:13 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Good question. I play it by ear. But you don't really have the option of folding.

If it's a trolling strike you can furl the sail, set the hook and fight all from the Hakas. Land them from the aft or the side. Fighting from the bench is very comfortable, since you can face the fish. Depends on the conditions and what you're wresting.

If it's rough off shore, is going to be a long fight or you have other lines to retrieve, it's safer to jump back in the seat to close the deal. Steer the boat toward the fish and use the pedals while you can. A net or gaff still works fine.

You can always jump on the Hakas when the fish is along side and ready to give it up.

Yes, tramps are real handy for landing whales or safe CNR but not required, I believe.

But then, I haven't landed anything over 20lb while using Hakas, so you'll have to tell us how you do with the sea monsters in your part of the world.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:23 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
NOHUHU wrote:
Chopcat, thanks for sharing your fine ideas and craftsmenship here.

CC,
What Nohuhu said! They are truly a work of art and look fantastic.


What surprises me is that no one has made any haka out of marine ply. I've been thinking of making a set out of 9mm marine ply I already have, using truss bracing similar to that on the plank style of haka. Should be a lot lighter and look almost as good.
Hmmm...looks like I'll have to get the woodworking tools out! :roll:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:02 pm 
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
Chopcat wrote:
On that point how has anyone fixed their hakas with the tramp out. is there anywhere to get a cord round it?

we'll be sailing soon.
CC


CC, i use my hakas and my tramps together. One end of the haka has pvc pipes cut to fit over and around the aka and strap of the tramp. The other end fits snugly over the other aka and is bungied to the aka.

kayakman7 wrote:
My hakas:

The rough draft, made with 2 rough cut ceder 2x4s.
Image

The final product, made with a 2x6 and a 2x4.
Image

I made them back in October but never got around to posting them. They weigh about 13 pounds. I hollowed out the undersides somewhat to reduce the weight.

Thanks for the idea Nohuhu!

cheers

j

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:52 am 
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Location: Terrigal NSW, Australia
stringy wrote:
Hmmm...looks like I'll have to get the woodworking tools out! :roll:

Who are you and what have you done with Stringy??

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:17 am 
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Location: London UK
Chekika wrote:
Usually, landing big fish has never been a problem for me; however, I do fish with only a single haka just as you do with your single tramp. You would not have a single tramp to throw it on, but you could slide over onto the one haka and pull the "big fish" into the cockpit. Or some variation of that.

Keith


Being a pilot I know all about mass and balance but I think I am going to finish these off and see if the extra length, which is where the additional weight is, works.

We are only tiddlers at 55kg so might be ok.

Lets hope the snow stops so we can do another dry fit this weekend.

Cc

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:32 pm 
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Location: Montmagny, Quebec, Canada
stringy wrote:
NOHUHU wrote:

What surprises me is that no one has made any haka out of marine ply. I've been thinking of making a set out of 9mm marine ply I already have, using truss bracing similar to that on the plank style of haka. Should be a lot lighter and look almost as good.
Hmmm...looks like I'll have to get the woodworking tools out! :roll:



HUMMMMM!!!!! PLY=SPLINTERS....well IMHO........;0)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:14 pm 
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Location: London UK
Marine ply has a density of 300-400 kg per m3
But it is a devil to finish well on the cut edges, particularly where you are cutting slots or holes.

Better to work with is birch through and through ply. It has a density of around 600 as heavy as hardwood but super stable ( wont warp in thin boards). But for our use no advantage over solid timber.

Hardwoods such as ash are one of the hardest and most dense hardwoods that are reasonably available at around 600.

Cedar and pine softwoods have a density of 350-400

So in summary softwoods will always be lightest but weakest and least durable. Marine ply will be lighter but a pig to make durable at the edges unless you glass or epoxy it
Hardwoods will be slimmest, strongest, more durable but heavier (and might even sink depending upon what you choose ).

And if you have something lying around. Make them out of that!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:05 pm 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
Could always try Huon Pine. The best possible timber for this application.
There is 1 drawback however.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:08 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
chrisj wrote:
stringy wrote:
Hmmm...looks like I'll have to get the woodworking tools out! :roll:

Who are you and what have you done with Stringy??


Lomcevak wrote:
HUMMMMM!!!!! PLY=SPLINTERS....well IMHO........;0)


:lol: :lol: :lol:
What can I say? My previous comments re working with wood and splinters were maybe... too hasty?? :oops:
It's just that I've got this marine ply that I'd like to use and I reckon it could make a very simple and lightweight haka. The edges would be covered by the tinnie cushions I have so splinters shouldn't be an issue.
It won't be replacing my alu haka. We've got some friends with a TI and others who are seriously thinking of getting one, so the extra haka won't go to waste. :)

CC,
You obviously know your wood. Thanks for the advice. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:29 pm 
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Location: Terrigal NSW, Australia
Well I built mine with treated pine (not arsenic) and painted it with exterior house paint. Cost about $50 for materials all up (mainly for SS screws). It's holding up fine. If it deteriorates in a couple of years, I'll knock a new one up.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:38 pm 
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Mine are never going to win a beauty contest, either. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:09 pm 
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Call me biased, but I don't think mine look too bad.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:20 pm 
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Timber..........Pffffff.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:24 am 
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Mate, a classic example of neo-industrial chic. It even has a hint of an electric guitar to it.

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