Threw together an easily modified, screws only (no glue, no finish) four board wide haka bench for the AI 2 this weekend and tested it out a bit. Not knowing how much I would have to brace it, it built it in such a way that I could add bracing more or less as needed. After testing, I'm already going to change it. Here's pictures of the process, with short comments, and then I have questions for more experienced folks below them. Thanks for your help.
The haka underside on the work table. 4 US nominal 1x4's (3.5x3/4"); US "furring strips" (1.5x3/4"); exterior high thread screws; adhesive backed rubber I got with an earlier TI cradle set. AI 2 akas rake forward about 4 degrees, and remain parallel to within less than a quarter inch all the way outboard
Forward end, capturing both sides of the aka with a padded channel. Furring strips perfect width for that screwed wide way perpendicular to the deck boards. You can see the raised braces screwed through the cross pieces into the deck boards. 2 longwise braces were enough, but I could have used more if necessary (3, or 4).
proving that the two braces are enough by standing on the haka with both ends blocked up.
the after end of the bench showing the changes necessary to allow the aka brace to still be used. Although it sort of becomes redundant if you capture one or both akas in channels on the bench underside. So, not so much crash protection anymore in this arrangement. didn't bother to capture both sides of the rear aka. The extra padding is to I can slide the thing into place when mounting and not scratch the aka.
the bench mounted. Weighs in at 16lbs. Don't want the final to be that heavy. No rounded corners yet. I like that the top surface remains clean of all fasteners. You can see my "boom crutch" that inserts into the dolly thru-holes and elevates the mast enough that the boat cover has sloped sides for easy rain runoff. Also visible--compass easily removable on top of hatch cover, and something called a "speedpuck" gps that gives speed and heading mounted forward. I push the button to change modes with my toe.
shock cord method of securing the haka on the akas
I started with four boards because that is the width of a kayak seat I can rig for a passenger. But now I figure I'll rig a tramp for any passenger, since it's softer and we won't be out in too much wind or waves with a passenger anyway. But I see I don't need the fourth. So the whole thing is going in a table saw and get one board cut clean off--the outside one.
You folks that have done this for while--how do you get from the seat to the haka, especially when you've spaced it out way to the outboard end of the akas? The seat on the AI 2 is awesomely comfortable and adjustable. Love it. But it is harder I find to move around because: (1) if you put weight on the very front of the seat, it rotates up enough to dislodge from the bar, even with the leash hooked up in the back; (2) you can't fold the seat back down and put weight on that either, at least not some portion of my 200lbs; (3) the lines that hold the seatback at a whatever angle you want (again wonderfu), make it hard to moved sideways out of the seat. You have to scrunch forward and then shift yourself outboard.
I'm older now and don't have the strength in my long ago damaged knees to squat and duckwalk around the deck. So I'm probably going to keep the haka close, or else figure out a way to make it slide in and out while hiking as needed.
Anyway, how are you getting safely in wind and waves to those hakas I see pictures of that are just 3 boards attached all the way outboard? On the Ai 2, that aka is 42" out to where it bends vertical into the ama. That's a bit of a stretch to get your ass out on to it. Can anybody talk to me about that?
Also, what are the trade offs involved in fully capturing the akas, so that the crash protection is gone, or somehow leaving them free to rotate back if the plastic bolt breaks.
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