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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 11:15 am 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Finally (almost) finished my single haka.
It incorporates the mount for my 24# thrust Watersnake, Railblaza Starport, and 6 padeyes for attaching "freight".
I added two holes to take the seat-pegs from a Hobie seat, with as loop of bungee cord keeping them in place (bonus was to discover that the bungee cord keeps the seatback upright). The side straps go to the rear-most padeyes.

Following on from fusioneng's suggestion, a length of from runs up from the motor leg to counteract the torque of the motor.
Image

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 4:59 pm 
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Great work there Tony! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:09 pm 
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Thanks stringy! I decided to be different by not staining the haka, but I am not so sure it was a good move. I first coated the wood with sanding sealer, which apparently does a great job waterproofing the wood, but the white enamel doesn't adhere well to the sealed surface, so it looks like I am committed to regular touch-ups where the paint gets knocked off. Still, it looks good in gloss white!

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 5:24 am 
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Has anybody in the haka clan looked at or worked with the interaction of the haka benches with the spinnaker kits? It seems like you run into issues on the after aka with placing the hardware for the spinnaker sheets and the position of your snuffer. I'm working right now on building much lighter hakas and also installing the spinnaker kit on a 2015 AI2.

One thought I had was possibly attaching the haka to the after aka UNDERNEATH it, as opposed to on top of it. That would at least clear the top of the aka to place the hardware whereever I wanted it. I'm going to experiment today on land with lashing the haka underneath both akas and see what that looks and feels like.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 6:55 am 
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Don't worry about it Mike. I certainly would not go to the trouble of making the haka sit underneath the aka, that sounds like a tough job....

While I only use one haka, the issues would be the same for both. You can fit the snuffer alongside a haka, there is enough room. You can run the spinnaker sheet over OR under the haka, any extra friction will be inconsequential. When the outer seat is occupied, I will run the sheet under the haka instead. On mine I chose to lash small bearing blocks at the outer end of the hakas, not out of necessity, but it seemed to be a more substantial way than just using the "top hat" studs.

In fact I have ordered a couple more blocks which will go out at the aft end of the amas. The spinnaker will sheet through them and them forward to the existing blocks (to avoid going diagonally over to the cleat)

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 7:50 am 
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Thanks, Tony. Does your haka sit inboard on the akas or outboard?

Even though I've had a lifetime of athletic, high speed sailing, at 72 now I have to be a lot more careful since my knees just don't work as well in squatting positions. So my hakas are placed just at the end of the knuckle, inboard, so that I can get onto them easily. That also leaves just enough space between the main hull and the aka that I can get a paddle in the water when it's too shallow for the mirage drive. But if I don't mount the spinnaker sheet swivel cleat on the haka itself (which I don't want to do), then that has to go outboard of the haka. If it's too close to the outer edge of the haka, I'm concerned that the height of the haka might make it hard to get the sheet cleated (since I can't lower the line too much).

Also, how are you finding the mast top fitting? Have you shaved off the top of the first batten in the main??


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:04 pm 
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Mike, as you can see from the photo above, my haka is about 2 inches out from the cleat location. There is no issue regarding cleating angles, as the haka is less than an inch higher than the aka, and the sleat is a similar height (I could run the sheet beneath the haka if there was a problem). I still have room for sticking the paddle between the haka and the hull (although I have partially filled the gap with my outboard!). BTW, I am 70, and have chronic back issues requiring morphine pain-killers (awaiting a spinal fusion later this year), so moving out of my central "skipper seat" is not an option, but I have no trouble operating everything on my TI, once I am on the water (launching and retrieving is another matter, and I usually need assistance)

As regards the masthead, I have added a short (maybe 15 inches?) piece of thin-walled black sprinkler system pipe, in order to make it easier for the sail to slide under the backstay/halyard. I shortened the top batten, as is suggested by lots of people, and don't experience any major issues with interference between the sails (of course I partially furl the main as Hobie instructs, during gybes).

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:11 am 
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Thank you Tony and good for you... gotta keep the passions alive. :-)

Quote:
"As regards the masthead, I have added a short (maybe 15 inches?) piece of thin-walled black sprinkler system pipe, in order to make it easier for the sail to slide under the backstay/halyard. I shortened the top batten, as is suggested by lots of people, and don't experience any major issues with interference between the sails (of course I partially furl the main as Hobie instructs, during gybes)."


Where are you putting this piece of pipe? Can't follow that part of what you say.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:55 am 
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It is zip-tied to the rear of the masthead fitting, so that the backstay flows through it. It prevents the backstay flipping up and wrapping around the wind indicator post. Others have fitted a similar pipe on the front side, but there is insufficient space on a TI. I believe the spinnaker for the AI must be shorter to cater for the mast height of an AI1, so there is much more spare halyard spare on the taller AI2 mast.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:05 am 
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MR, here is a picture of how I attached it to the front of the mast top fitting. I imagine Tony did it the same way although he attache his to the back of the mast top fitting.

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2016 AI - Spinn & Jib

“Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him.”
– Charles G. Davis

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 1:43 pm 
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Tony, vetgam--thanks. So am I seeing this right? This pipe is just hanging loose a couple inches below the masthead fitting?? It's purpose is just to weight the halyard so that it doesn't wrap the masthead fitting when everything is loose and flying around?

Against the black background in the picture, it's hard for me to tell what's what. Does the attachment line go through the middle of the pipe? Wouldn't that tend to foul the halyard run?

I'll be installing the kit myself this week and have a better sense of this.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 5:48 pm 
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Yes, the line runs down through the pvc. When there is tension, the halyard is not deviated from its normal course. The zip tie elongates.

I was sailing today. I cut my pvc tube down to 17 inches. It was not long enough. 24 inches works. I way try 21 inches next trip out.

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Greg

2016 AI - Spinn & Jib

“Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him.”
– Charles G. Davis

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 9:09 pm 
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Anyone reading this should be aware that the spinnaker is a "one size fits all" as regards AIs (The TI spinnaker is a different size)

Accordingly, the head of the sail on an AI2 will not be as close to the masthead as the AI1. I first realised this when I spotted that there is definitely no 24 inch gap on my TI, and I recalled the mast being taller AI2 vs. AI1..

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 7:35 am 
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Good point Tony. I get the feeling that everyone will have to play with finding the right length. These will be starting points. If you use 24 inch pvc on an A1 like I have, you will find that you are limited in how high you can raise the spinnaker. This becomes the trade off that you have to live with. I plan experiment with another idea today. I may post another solution that might eliminate the trade off if I'm lucky.

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Greg

2016 AI - Spinn & Jib

“Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him.”
– Charles G. Davis

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 5:47 am 
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COMPARING TWO HAKA DESIGNS WITH DAGGERBOARDS

First, I'm a performance sailor and a woodworker, what I'm doing makes sense for those purposes, though not necessarily for others. Two things: I wanted to start seeing how light I could make a haka; and, I want to give my AI2 more useful lateral surface area, because I don't think the CB supplied is enough.

I built one haka last year shown below. I don't need that little crossover extension anymore, so I've done away with that. The hakas can be moved outboard, but I have physical limits on getting over to them at my age. I do want enough room between the hakas and the main hull t paddle when the water's too shallow or weedy for the mirage.

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The one I just built is 1/8 marine ply skins with ribs inside. The thing about doing this is that you don't want to underbuild the first try when you can't really estimate the strength. So it's overbuilt in terms of scantlines. Edge pieces are 1 1/4" by 9/8 (5/4 clear pine). Longitudinals are 5/8 wide and perpendiculars are 1/2 wide. Since it's hollow I had to put in special angled cross pieces to screw in the aka mounting parts.

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Because it's overbuilt, I only shaved maybe 2.5 lbs. Surprised at that. The haka in the first picture weighs about 12.5 lbs. The new hollow one weighs just about 10.

Here below are pictures of the arrangements for daggerboard slot, securing the mirage drive, mounting a passenger seat, and securing the daggerboard when not in use. The slot has a shallower outer trunk and then a deep inner trunk that I can dismount for travel and storage. The outer trunk is just as deep as the aka mounting pieces so that the bench will sit level when the top is up.

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Here's are shots of both hakas. I'm leaving tomorrow for two weeks in a cabin on the Eastern short of Lake Ontario, and will be comparing these two designs.

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Since placing the daggerboard relative to the center of effort of the sail is guesswork, I've put the daggerboard slots in slightly different places on each one to get a comparison. I don't really know whether all the work that went into the hollow bench was worth it for 2.5 pounds gain in lightness. Also, the original bench is perhaps prettier. Next year I'll probably build another of the original type, or else go to an even lighter inner structure for the hollow one.

Whatever, building the hollow one was a worthy and fun project from which I've learned a lot constructionwise and will learn more in terms of usability. Here's a shot of both benches in the back of my stationwagon for travel

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Next to the benches is my front dolly for the AI2. This takes the weight off my arm when I'm pulling the boat around on the dollies.


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