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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 11:52 am 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Correct. If you see Kelly out there, just follow him home. :lol:

When you pop by, please pack a little Image. I'm fresh out.


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 4:31 pm 
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
Slaughter wrote:
P.S. It may be a good time to recap on the pros and cons of tethering ourselves. Although you've pulled off a great design kayakman7, without a tether, it looks like a disaster waiting to happen. I'd hate to see all that hard work sailing off into the distance.


Thank you and that's a very valid point. I usually tether to the furling line but it's a bit short. I also only use the hakas when I have a passenger. I need to make a tiller extension before I can use the hakas solo.

Cheers,

J

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 5:39 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
I would think that tying the sheet and furling lines together and then hooking a large carabiner (with a short tether) over them would provide a good way to keep you attached to the boat and keep the lines within reach at all times. You would have to experiment.

In the real world, leashes get in the way and get hung up on things. When you start hiking back and forth, you will notice them more - believe me. It's hard enuff to keep the sail lines out of the water, or from being snack food for the mirage drive.

My left handed surf leash has worked well from the cockpit seat, but now I'm wondering if leashing my vest or leg to the sailing lines would make for smoother transitions.

As you guys work this out, please share your preferences.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 2:06 am 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
Hmmm, I just realised that I have a length of cable tray, some pvc pipe, some foam. But do I have any stainless steel rivets ? I have a quick fix Haka design in mind. What's the time now ? 8:06 Hobie time. OK, give me 2 hours. The challenge is on.........ready..............set...............GO.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 4:00 am 
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How'd I go. Killed it, 6 minutes to spare. And I had time to give it a quick coat of black paint. OK, it may be a bit rough, but hopefully it convinces me that later on I need to make something a bit more 'upmarket' to match you blokes.

This 175x50 zinc coated cable try has 2 PVC conduit clips attached. The rear clip needs a 36mm slot so that it clips nicely and securely onto the rear Aka.
Image
The clip is pressed home last and stops the Haka moving forward or aft.
Image

Image

The front clip from the same conduit is attached also via stainless steel rivets but is oriented as shown so that once clipped on stops the Haka lifting up.
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A bit of comfort.
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Just like a bought one. Being only zinc coated, I may only get a season out of the cable tray before some rust kicks in. We'll see, but at about $30, not bad value I reckon. And 3.43 kg ain't too bad either. ( just looking at the ends of that cable tray reminds me to keep the first aid kit nice and handy )

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 4:54 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Great work mate and so quick. You've really caught up. 8)
Now you won't feel left out when Chris and I meet up with you.
It's a toss up between you and me as to whose is the most industrial looking. I think you might be slightly ahead.

Let us know what you think of the haka experience.

I've modified how the haka attach at the front aka. It's very similar to yours but I bent some 20mm x 3mm aluminium to fit around and under the aka. I lined it with neoprene. It makes it easy to fit and remove. Locate it at the front and pull it back. Tube clips at the rear aka lock it down. Tested it today and it works well. It stops the see-saw when I move beyond the rear aka.
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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 4:58 am 
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Location: Terrigal NSW, Australia
Hey, were you testing on Brisbane Water today? Wish I'd known. I've made some new mods I'm eager to try out.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:30 am 
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Sorry Chris. I should have rung you but I only decided to go after lunch. Winds were that light I almost didn't.
When are you next available? I'm keen for a comparison in the same winds with the TI sail fitted.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:50 am 
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I'm only committed tomorrow (Saturday) and Tuesday at this stage. It would be interesting to see how the AI goes with the TI sail, if the winds are light. I think I've got the OK seat nailed. Hoping to leave the cockpit for good.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 8:11 am 
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AKA BENCH TEST IN RAFT CONDITIONS.
DONE VIA "ABISAL12" (ALU LEADER)/ 6,2 KILOS EACH.

[youtube]http://youtu.be/a3ilYiD4O3Y[/youtube]


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 3:54 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Now that's a proper test Alarcas!
Even when you where hiking out that far the lee ama was still buried.
The slomo shows just how big those waves were.
Great stuff! 8)


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 4:18 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Well done, as always, alarcas. Muchisimas gracias por publicar!

This really helps to illustrate the proper way to solo sail the TI - and still stay fairly dry.

(Also the wisdom of leashing). :roll:

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:22 pm 
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Whoa Stringy, short of strapping a SUP board to the Akas you definitely win the "speed Haka" contest! Another 90 seconds and you could have sprayed them too. :wink:

In general, I have been leaning away from the mounting hardware like clips or PVC now due to the way it messes up the paint and wants to tear things, (even during transport).

But mostly, having a fixed receiver requires that you precisely set the angle and Haka position to one point on the bars. If you slide the Hakas in/out, the angle changes. It's very limiting.

Using one mounting point could still be useful, such as the rear PVC channel pictured here. (Padded of course).

Image

Obviously, our Akas are not square, so a matching front set of mounts would need to be angled. Since all our boats and models have some variation, the Universal Haka (padded/strapped) has become our preferred type.

I though I would run this by everyone again so no one ends up with scratched/gouged Akas and becomes discouraged. (aka pissed at me!)

Folks, let us know how your mounting solutions work out, and if they leave any scars.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 4:37 am 
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I copied Stringy and used these 38mm (1½") tube holders on my Haka (Raka). The narrow base ones seem to be pretty gentle on the akas.

Image

The wide base ones are stiffer and more abrasive.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 2:46 am 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
Do you get those clips from BCF ? I haven't seen them. If you look on my photos 2 & 3 I have some clear heavy duty contact ( borrowed from the Air Force and used on the leading edge of aircraft wings ) wrapped around the Aka to protect it. If I had more of it, I'd do all the Akas.

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