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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 6:19 pm 
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
I recently put Hullavators on my pickup truck so I can load my surf ski more easily.

Now I am thinking about buying a 2015 Adventure Island.

I have seen the posts about AI-1's on Hullavators, but nothing on the AI-2.

I dummied up an 88-pound load using a bunch of windsurfer sails and masts. I managed to get it up and down - getting between the load and the vehicle and then lifting with the load across my shoulders. But the AI-2 weighs 15# more and, of course, there is the shape issue.

The Question: Is anybody successfully transporting their 2015 AI on roof racks and using Hullavators to load it?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:47 pm 
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Location: Southwest Calif.
I used to load my 2013 AI on my Hullavator but ended up getting tired of wrestling with it because it seems like it's pushing it's upper limit and went out and bought a Malone trailer. The tongue of the trailer is adjustable in length and removable and the trailer can be stood up on it's back support so it can be stored vertical.
Life is a lot easier now !

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:40 pm 
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
Salty Dawg wrote:
I used to load my 2013 AI on my Hullavator but ended up getting tired of wrestling with it because it seems like it's pushing it's upper limit and went out and bought a Malone trailer. The tongue of the trailer is adjustable in length and removable and the trailer can be stood up on it's back support so it can be stored vertical.
My 2015 arrived today. Vaka weight is right on spec at 106#, but it's a *heavy* 106.... -)

I got it into the Hullavator cradles, but when I went to lift it up on to the roof I chickened out. Just didn't feel safe to me - either for the Hullavators or for Yours Truly.

Bottom Line: There's a trailer or t-loader in Yours Truly's future.

T-Loader if it looks like I can store the vaka down the shore and just carry the akas, amas, sail, and so-forth. Trailer if it looks like I will be trying different venues.

Right now, as I write this.... "Trailer"....


Questions:

  • Which Malone model did you get?
  • Did you need the extended tongue on your Malone?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:16 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
cross SportsRig off your list - I have one, love it, but would never recommend it. Rack and Roll is basically the same design but aluminum (same person designed both) .. neither are "Water" trailers and the wheels can not be submerged.

.. I have 2 sets of Hullivators and have used them alot with my V1 AI's. The load springs barely assist the lift but I have total faith in them and could see them holding another 15lbs easily .. but you must have a roof rack that can support it (factory stuff isn't usually rated past 150 if that ..check with mfgr)

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His/Hers Papaya Hobie Adventure Island's (v1.00.02)
.. and a Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 3:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
I'm just thinking out loud here. We have a Yukon Denali that we sometimes roof top our Tandem Island with. The Yukon comes with an adjustable 2 cross bar roof rack standard (250 lbs rated capacity). For many years we used the malone wings with the combo extenders in both front and back so we had 4 points of contact to the hull, that worked ok. We then bought a T-bar that goes into the hitch reciever (rated 500lbs). This was before anyone thought of the swing down types now available (it was around $80 bucks on Amazon). Currently we just lift the bow onto the T-bar, then lift the back and slide forward on top of the factory cross bars. We then stuff pool noodles under the boat to even the load, we sometimes have the TI on the roof for weeks at a time down in the hot Key West sun with no issues (the is no trailer parking in Key West, except two spaces at Simonton st launch ($2.60/ hr for the trailer plus $2.60/hr for your car).
Our next vehicle will be a GMC pickup, my current plan is to get one of the new swing down T-bar hitch mounts (I will likely just convert my current one so it swings down). I then plan to add two elevated cross bars to the front and back of the truck bed. To the cross bars I plan to attach two 1 1/2 inch PVC pipes with wing nuts (so they can easily be removed) on 11 inch centers. The pipes will be 8-10 ft long and stick out past the rear cross bar at least a foot (for self centering). There will likely be an additional padded support over the front of the cab (above the driver seat) attached to the PVC for additional support. The whole works shouldn't cost more than a hundred or so bucks ($20 bucks in PVC). I might need to slide some broom handles or just plain old water pipe into the PVC to prevent it from sagging (not a big deal), I'll just glue caps on the PVC pipes to contain the strengthening rods.
After the hull is on the roof I can either just throw the sail and AMA's on the roof then strap the whoe works down. Or I can physically attach the AMA's to the AKA bars and swing them back against the hull for transport, then strap the whole works down.
If we have our camper along and need the hitch, I will remove the T-bar and throw in the back of the truck so we can use the hitch for the camper.
Loading and unloading will be very easy, just center the rear of the boat on some carpet behind the car, with the bow of the boat along side the rear of the swung down T-bar, lift the bow (which weighs around 50 lbs)onto the lowered T-bar so the bow overhangs the bar a foot or two. You will need to add two safety ropes with clips to prevent the hull from sliding back on the T-bar as you tilt it up. Once the T-bar is vertical the safety clips are removed. If you did everything correctly the T-bar is now vertical and the tip of the bow is trapped between the two PVC pipes. Now you lift the back of the boat and slide it forward onto the pickup. The boat slides very easily on the PVC pipe and the PVC provides all the needed support to the hull (I've been keeping and storing my TI on PVC bunks for almost 3yrs now with no visible distortion or scratches (who cares if it scratches anyway It's the bottom of the boat (lol)).
Locally just strapping down should be sufficient. But if a long highway trip is planned, V straps on the bow and stern are probably a good idea. The coolest part is the tilting T-bar can now be removed and you can hook your trailer up for towing. We have a couple hundred thousand miles under our belts with campers in tow and Kayaks on the roof. We have now wore out 3 Yukon Denali's, like I said our next vehicle will likely be a GMC Denali pickup (with the big cab), I just hope it's available with the full air suspension, if not it will be another Yukon Denali or Cadillac Escalade ($75k ouch).
Thats my plan and I'm sticking with it.
FE


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:25 am 
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
fusioneng wrote:
Our next vehicle will be a GMC pickup, my current plan is to get one of the new swing down T-bar hitch mounts (I will likely just convert my current one so it swings down).

As far as I can see, these two seem to be the definitive T-bar loaders:

http://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-T-Load ... B006VORRHS
http://www.amazon.com/Strongarm-StrongA ... B00SA8JGIG

Does your engineering perspective shed any light on the substantial price diff?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:32 am 
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
PassWind wrote:
cross SportsRig off your list - I have one, love it, but would never recommend it. Rack and Roll is basically the same design but aluminum (same person designed both) .. neither are "Water" trailers and the wheels can not be submerged.

If water tolerance were not a requirement, would you feel comfortable recommending Rack-and-Roll?

Looks like I can get one for $1,910 with spare wheel included.

Two things that call out to me about R&R:
  • Storability. If I need to transport the trailer empty, I can remove the wheels and stuff the rest into the bed of my pickup. Ditto longterm storage at home - pull the wheels, fold in the tongue, and lay it up against the back of the garden shed.
    .
  • Ease of movement on grass. I know from experience with my 20' outrigger and steel trailer that every pound counts when moving boat/trailer around on the lawn..... and bigger wheels = better wheels.
[/list]

Quote:
.. I have 2 sets of Hullivators and have used them alot with my V1 AI's. The load springs barely assist the lift but I have total faith in them and could see them holding another 15lbs easily .. but you must have a roof rack that can support it (factory stuff isn't usually rated past 150 if that ..check with mfgr)

I just made a second attempt with the Hullavators. Still scared me and I couldn't get it to lift. I think something bent in the Hullavators too because now they are reluctant to engage the hold-down mode and difficult to squeeze the release handles.

As soon as I post this, I am going out and remove the Hullavators temporarily and try to dummy up a side loader (I've got a rooftop box on the other side, so can't try it there).


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 12:52 pm 
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PeteCress wrote:
As soon as I post this, I am going out and remove the Hullavators temporarily and try to dummy up a side loader (I've got a rooftop box on the other side, so can't try it there).

Managed to get it up on the racks - inverted - using the dummied-up side loader.

That will be my backup plan if I want to get it to it's semi-permanent storage place at the beach, but totally out of my league for regular use.

Now it's just a matter of which trailer.

Right now, this one is looking the most suitable - albeit also the most costly:
http://www.rackwarehouse.com/yakima-800 ... ailer.html


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 1:35 pm 
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Hi Pete. Thanks for sharing your information and experiences.

I am in the same stage of car topping frustrations (2015 TI) and looking to buy a trailer. Based on what I have gathered, I will be purchasing a canoe trailer and modifying the trailer with PVC bunks which will support the hull for both transportation and storage.

I am leaning towards the Portage Pal due to its price and simplicity of design (and made in USA). Can anyone comment on their satisfaction/dis-satisfaction with the Portage Pal T-2000 ?

Brian


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 5:38 pm 
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unagimon wrote:
I am leaning towards the Portage Pal due to its price and simplicity of design (and made in USA). Can anyone comment on their satisfaction/dis-satisfaction with the Portage Pal T-2000 ?

Couple days ago I started a thread on Portage Pal: viewtopic.php?f=71&t=55794#p262524

But so far it has not been productive in terms of finding anybody with actual experience.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 6:02 pm 
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PassWind wrote:
cross SportsRig off your list - I have one, love it, but would never recommend it. Rack and Roll is basically the same design but aluminum (same person designed both) .. neither are "Water" trailers and the wheels can not be submerged.
If water-tolerance were not a requirement, would you feel comfortable getting a Rack-n-Roll?

My seeming fixation on Rack-and-Roll is around:

  • Ease of storage while the AI is living at the beach during summer months (drop the wheels, fold the tongue, lean it up against the back of my garden shed)
    .
  • Probable ability to drop the wheels and stuff the frame in the back of my pickup truck for transport without freeway trailer tolls when I have to "Dead Head" the trailer somewhere
    .
  • Ease of rolling trailer with boat on it over grass during non-summer months as I move it around in my yard to mow the lawn, hitch/unhitch for off-season trips, and so-forth.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:41 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
.. sorry for the delayed response, I was off grid with a backpack on for 4 days

PeteCress wrote:
If water tolerance were not a requirement, would you feel comfortable recommending Rack-and-Roll?


Yes, I feel it is a very well designed trailer with the swing-arm suspension (like a motorcycle rear) and large tires = less rotation per mile .. which means slower bearing speeds. While I have no direct experience with them, my local Hobie dealer sells them and uses one himself to deliver AI/TI's all over Long Island NY. He Loves it.

.. just to expound on my comment about SportsRig a bit - I bought a used AI With the SportsRig for very cheap ($1600 for both) so it was almost like getting a free trailer. The SportsRig is powder coated steel, and the powder coating is pealing / flaking off even though it was never subjected to actually being "IN" salt water. Also, when I first bought it, I tried contacting the Co. repeatedly and it was if they closed shop and disconnected the phone even though they still had the website up and supposedly taking orders. I had signed up for their news letter, and after about a year I got pinged that they were back in action and taking orders :roll: No phone number listed and only a web presence, AND NEVER ANSWERED MY INQUIRIES :evil: . I get the feeling its a side gig for some Cali guys ..

Because our Yaks are so long, you will need the largest extended tongue they offer and there will still be quite a bit of overhang behind the trailer - check with your DMV as to what is allowable. I only use the trailer for local outings and have never been hassled. Also, with the large tongue installed it will not collapse without removing the tongue. On mine, the huge tongue is two pieces butted together with an inner joiner. This creates a weak spot and it flexes there as well as the collapsing pivot point. I plan to eventually replace that whole setup including the pivot with one long piece.

Quote:
I just made a second attempt with the Hullavators. Still scared me and I couldn't get it to lift. I think something bent in the Hullavators too because now they are reluctant to engage the hold-down mode and difficult to squeeze the release handles.


Most roofs are curved from the back cross rail to the front cross rail - here's a crude paint drawing to illustrate. I think it is because the arms aren't parallel that you are getting the binding / distorting. I solved this easily because I made my own roof rack and was able to correct the geometry with some simple washers .. YMMV

In the picture, imagine you are looking side-on and the hullivators are UP but not collapsed down on the roof.

Image


Here's a pic of the SportsRig - it has extension bars on the rear bringing the rear cross brace back a foot or two from where it would normally be (on the regular SportsRig or the Rack&Roll).

I heard rumor that this trailer was specifically designed for Hobie when the AI was released but they decided to go with trailex instead ?

[URL=http://s101.photobucket.com/user/69gs400s/media/SportRigXUVhobie_zps4cb01989.jpg.html]Image

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Alan W.
His/Hers Papaya Hobie Adventure Island's (v1.00.02)
.. and a Hobie Outback SUV


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