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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:30 pm 
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Hi all,

Picked up my Adventure Island last week, and after just one sail I decided that I wanted to mod the sail controls to be more suitable for me as I'd grown used to the outback with the port side furler. I hadn't really seen a mod as simple as this for port furling controls (seen a few complicated ones...) so I thought I'd post this up for anyone else who wants to try this. Its really neat, simple and effective.
Apart from regular hand tools, the only materials I ended up needing were as follows:

9/64 Drill bit, very specific but it MUST be that size
8/32 Tap
Four new screws, 1 1/2" long 8/32 thread and washers/nuts to suit (for installing cleats, the original screws are too short)
Harken 29mm cheek block (conveniently I had one already located on my outback)

First step first, remove the two cleats from the RHS aka bracket and put them somewhere safe. Keep the curved spacer that was under the main sheet cleat; this will now be used to keep the pulley tight and flat on the aka support bracket. Position the Pulley on the curved spacer and put it between the left side aka mount bracket and the end trim, get it nice and square and drill one hole to 9/64. Take the block away and tap that hole with the 8/32 tap.

Image

Using one of the original cleat screws, screw down the block in this hole gently, then accurately line up your block for the next hole. These holes must be VERY accurate, if not you risk the screws not doing up together. Drill and tap the other hole, and screw the block down using thread locker. Don't go too tight, you don't want to strip threads. You'll also need to cut your screws shorter so they aren't protruding and rubbing on the aka attachment. Once the pulley is installed, the line goes really nicely on and off of the furler drum.

Image

Next step is to move the cleats to the gunwales on the left and right sides, just in front of the mesh pockets. Drill and screw down using the longer bolts, its easy as that. Again, use the 9/64 drill as the screws will cut a nice thread and improve sealing and grip to the hull additional to the nuts grip. If you get lucky like I did, the bolts touch the inner guide tube for the rudder control cables and don't touch the cables at all.

Image

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I also replaced the furler line with the rope that came with the outbacks sail kit. Much better rope.

All up I think the mod is fantastic and seeing as it would cost less than $30 bucks I think its well worth it if you like a control line on either side like I do. Yes the left cleat is a bit harder to lock being on a bit of an angle but having said that I think its a good thing cause the furling line doesn't lock itself up in the cleat when pulling hard on the main sheet, and vice versa. When either rope is dangling it can be easily placed in a pocket. Its a good simple system and I hope you all enjoy my modification that cleans up the cockpit greatly, as you can see below.

Image

Thanks for reading,

Dan


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 6:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
Posts: 2725
Location: South Florida
Dan, that is a very nice mod. I may do it, but there is a slight complication for me. Like many AI sailors, I've grown used to tying the ends of the main and furler lines together (done it for 8 yrs). That way, you find one, you have the other. With your layout, tying the lines together probably won't work. Still, I like your mod. Maybe I will do it on the starboard side--have my cake and eat it too!

Keith

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 2965
Location: Kailua 96734
Great mod for sailing in the missionary position. Not going to work out on the Hakas, though.

Welcome to the forum Dan.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:52 pm 
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Location: South Florida
NOHUHU wrote:
Great mod for sailing in the missionary position. Not going to work out on the Hakas, though.

Welcome to the forum Dan.

NOHUHU, you have a wonderful way of describing things. I didn't know what the "missionary position" was, so I googled it. Some of you may not want to do that!

Keith

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 4:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2015 4:12 pm
Posts: 50
Thats pretty cool, I have the exact cheek block and misc items for my TI on order to run the furling line to the rear seat position, then i will use the factory setup for the front seat..


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:58 pm
Posts: 172
Location: SF Bay
Carl M wrote:
Thats pretty cool, I have the exact cheek block and misc items for my TI on order to run the furling line to the rear seat position, then i will use the factory setup for the front seat..


Are you going to run it in the same way as the OP just more aft? Details please!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 11:38 pm 
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I plan on putting the same cheek block in the same location as OP but then I will use pad eyes to move it slightly down and to one side to get around the forward steering lever, my wife and I both like the steering levers with the spacer installed so it's off the hull, then I will install a factory cam cleat on the top of the rear crossbar on the port side, just like the factory cleat for the mainsheet on the starboard side....


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:33 am 
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Location: SF Bay
Carl M wrote:
I plan on putting the same cheek block in the same location as OP but then I will use pad eyes to move it slightly down and to one side to get around the forward steering lever, my wife and I both like the steering levers with the spacer installed so it's off the hull, then I will install a factory cam cleat on the top of the rear crossbar on the port side, just like the factory cleat for the mainsheet on the starboard side....


Thanks for explaining. Sounds like a nice setup. Please post photos when you're done.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 9:34 am 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2015 8:53 am
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
Adventure_dan wrote:
... move the cleats to the gunwales on the left and right sides, just in front of the mesh pockets. Drill and screw down using the longer bolts, its easy as that. Again, use the 9/64 drill as the screws will cut a nice thread and improve sealing and grip to the hull additional to the nuts grip.
Did you use washers under the bolts or fabricate an SS plate?

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:58 pm
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Location: SF Bay
One issue with this mod: when the sail is furled, cleating the line doesn't prevent the sail from unfurling. Short of tying the sail, has anyone addressed this?


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 7:35 pm 
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Location: Maui, Hawaii
scc wrote:
One issue with this mod: when the sail is furled, cleating the line doesn't prevent the sail from unfurling. Short of tying the sail, has anyone addressed this?
Why would you think this? :?

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http://KayakingBob.com - - - - - Hobie Island Sailing since 2006 - - - - - 2011 & 2015 Hobie AIs and a 2012 TI


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 8:08 pm 
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Location: SF Bay
KayakingBob wrote:
scc wrote:
One issue with this mod: when the sail is furled, cleating the line doesn't prevent the sail from unfurling. Short of tying the sail, has anyone addressed this?
Why would you think this? :?


Old age? :oops:


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:21 pm
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Location: Maui, Hawaii
scc wrote:
KayakingBob wrote:
scc wrote:
One issue with this mod: when the sail is furled, cleating the line doesn't prevent the sail from unfurling. Short of tying the sail, has anyone addressed this?
Why would you think this? :?

Old age? :oops:
OK, so it's not me this time :)

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http://KayakingBob.com - - - - - Hobie Island Sailing since 2006 - - - - - 2011 & 2015 Hobie AIs and a 2012 TI


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 5:48 pm 
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Location: Houston, TX
"Old age" - now that was funny SCC!

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