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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 10:11 am 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
I have to stop putting my TI onto the roof, because I destroyed the roof on my Yukon Denali, and the whole roof now has to be replaced (under warranty fortunately).
What my thought is since I cannot have a trailer in my yard because of deed restrictions, and at our place down in Key West there simply is no place to keep it, here is my idea.

Build a receiver mount about 1-2 ft long that straps to the front of the TI.

Then build a 2 wheel dolly (kind of like a car dolly) that would strap to the bottom of the boat with straps. The dolly would have trailer lights, and a flexible electric cord would run up to the electric plug.

Basically to unhitch from the car you would just unstrap the hitch mount from the car, roll the TI to the waters edge and lift it off the dolly. I would then put the dolly in the back of the car or attach it to the front portion somehow for storage without the boat.

The TI itself should be structurally sound enough to support itself (you would think). I guess the rear portion would look something like the big TI dolly cart, a handle could be easily added. Basically the only difference would be the wheels and axles would be larger road 'able', and probably a slightly wider stance, along with lights and electrics.

Has anyone built anything like this.

I'm assuming because it smells, tastes, and looks like a trailer Florida would want their cut and you would have to register and put plates on. Though I think this is double dipping licensing on the license fees since my boat is already registered ( I can just see myself in handcuffs arguing my point to the trooper as he hauls me off to prison for having a non registered trailer).
I have seen several people with those Harbor freight trailers, I would probably start with that (that way it can be registered). Just cut it all up to get what I want. Worst case would be prison time.

Basically I would be starting with this trailer ( http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-cap ... 42708.html )

Bob

Would also make a dandy cart for rolling the TI around into my back yard in the dead of night (stealth, would need to paint it camouflage colors).

Update: I went to Harbor Freight and purchased the trailer, I'll let everyone know how it works out. Total cost so far (the trailer was on sale for $182. plus I had an additional 20% off coupon). I added a receiver ball ($20 bucks), so I'm into everything $180 dollars (with tax). They also included a nice LED flashlight (free). My goal is to keep the total cost around $200 bucks.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 1:18 pm 
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Location: Aussie living in San Diego, CA
Hi fusioneng. The trailer that I purchased with my TI from my local Hobie dealer use the Hobie Beach Dolly to hold the TI and then has a "docking station" on the back of the galvanized trailer so that the TI uses the same cradle whether on the Trailer or used as a beach dolly. When on the trailer the big beach wheels and the pole are removed and stored in the trunk of the car. I imagine that if you made the Harbor Freight trailer into a folding trailer (I think they actually make a folding version) then you could store it more easily against a wall.
I'll be interested to see how your project turns out.

Barry

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 3:10 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Bob,
Checkout what 'Geoff' did for storing his trailer:
viewtopic.php?f=73&t=10531


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:51 am 
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Location: South Florida
Bob, that inexpensive trailer from Harbor Freight is made out of ordinary steel which will rust incredibly fast if it ever gets near saltwater. I think you need to raise your sights a bit to a galvanized trailer. I looked into one last summer from Continental Trailers--it was only $640 (EC2K12 http://www.continentaltrailers.com/galvanized-canoekayak.htm) It is just an example of a galvanized trailer you might consider. I'm using a galvanized trailer I bought 20 yrs ago for a power boat. I subsequently converted it to a kayak trailer--I have carried 3 AIs on it, all disassembled, of course. Even galvanized trailers have ordinary steel axels--which rust out. I've replaced the axel & springs a couple times. Since I converted it to a kayak trailer it has never been backed into saltwater, but it still gets drips of saltwater on it and over the years it has corroded to some degree.

I was wondering if you could build a small privacy fence in your yard to hide your trailer behind--is that allowed?

Keith

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 1:00 pm 
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Location: Texas Gulf Coast/Dallas, Texas
This is pricey, but I yak fish with some guys from Houston that use this Yakima trailer. I folds up and stores against the wall in your garage and it is very light, light enough to use as a dolly to wheel your TI down to the water. http://www.yakima.com/shop/trailers/tra ... d-roll-66/

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 1:10 pm 
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Location: Texas Gulf Coast/Dallas, Texas
Also, I built a Yak/AI trailer last Nov. and made a detachable tongue. I cut 3 feet of the tongue off and welded a hitch receiver tube on to the remaining tongue still attached to the trailer, then slid the cut off portion into the receiver to make the full length tongue again. I did this as a security devise to help prevent someone from stealing it if and when I have to leave my rig in a motel/hotel parking lot over night. So far its worked. You could do the same, just find a suitable galvanized light weight trailer and have a welder cut off and rebuild the tongue and you could take it apart and store it in your garage.
PM me your email and I'll send you a pic of mine.

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"Riding The Island Wind" RIPIT (Tim)
'08 Red Hibiscus AI w/2013 replacement hull, Lovin' it!!!
'11 Golden Papaya AI (for a chap)
'10 Outback w/sail
'11 Tarpon 160


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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 6:39 pm 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Here is my 2 piece trailer, maiden launch.
Image

I ended up buying the Harbor Freight trailer ($140 bucks on sale). I bought some 1 inch sq aluminum tubing and made a detachable front half to the trailer held in by 2 pins. The thought was when I have to trek across a 1/2 mile of soft sand to launch the boat at the beach, I leave the tongue and front half of the trailer on the car, then pull the boat on the trailer down to the waters edge with all the gear, AMA's, mast, etc and such. This saves me 3-4 trips back to the car carrying gear.
In the pic at the main launch I go to (next to the Sarasota Sailing Squadron in Sarasota), I just unstrapped the boat and slid it into the water, was extremely easy, when I got back I just lifted the front of the boat and slid it onto the trailer, also very easy.
The car in the picture is our Yukon Denali, it was in the body shop for 3 weeks getting a whole new roof put on, as a result of me hauling kayaks on the roof. Wife has now forbidden me to haul kayaks on the roof, so hence the $140 Harbor Freight trailer. With all the aluminum and hardware (things like all stainless bolts, nice buckle straps, title and registration, etc, total cost was around $300 bucks. The trailer fits in our garage nicely next to our car. When I got home today I just pulled in the drive, unhooked the trailer and rolled it into the garage, pretty easy, compared to getting the kayak off the car, then getting all the equipment out of the back of the car and storing everything all over the place in the garage, it went from 30-40 minutes down to two. I now just leave the motor and AMA's on the boat.
I used to lay the boat on it's side to mount all my sails (it was just easier for me), Today I just dropped the mast in from the top after I got the boat off the trailer, (it was actually quicker). When I got back to shore the first thing I did was pull the mast to lower it, actually worked out pretty good. I will still likely start using a halyard up top to pull the jib and spinnaker up to the mast top (currently they are clipped to the mast topper and un-removable).
Bob


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 12:51 pm 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
More pics of my two piece trailer. The intent was to leave the front part of the trailer attached to the car, unclip the trailer with two pins, then use the back part of the trailer as a beach cart. Since it's about a half mile across the soft sand beach to the water when I want to beach launch, I used to have to take several trips back and forth to the car to get stuff, it becomes quite a pain. Plus walking the HD scupper cart through the sugar like beach sand is very difficult (it's even a pain with the grey inflatable tires).

Here is the rear portion of the trailer (the 1" sq pieces would be removed to use as a beach cart).
Image

Here is the front part of the trailer (would stay with the car)
Image

Here is the whole trailer. Note the two PVC rails up the center, the boat slides on these rails, and is incredibly easy to load right out of the water (no scupper cart needed), or with the scupper cart in the rearmost scupper holes.
Image


When using the unit as a beach cart (with the front part removed), The scupper cart would be in the front set of holes on the hull, then the cart is rolled up behind the boat and slid over then onto the cart (actually very easily done). The only down side to this method is you have to tilt the front of the boat up to get the scupper cart out (the trailers wheels are very close to the balance point of the boat so you are only lifting about 20 lbs).
The complete trailer currently weighs around 140 lbs and total cost so far was around $300 bucks. I have plans to replace all the red steel components with aluminum (about $100 bucks in materials) one of these days when I'm feeling ambitious. The whole trailer breaks down and can hang on the wall in my garage (though I will likely never do that, I just keep the boat on it, along with everything else (ie.. seats, motor, anchor, AMA's, etc) ready to go in the garage).
It takes about 5 minutes to back up to the water, pull the boat off, and have the boat in the water (ready to step the mast and rig the sails), quite a bit faster than my previous 30 minutes when hauling on the car top, with all the pieces in the back of the car.
All in all it turned out well, If I had to do it again, I would likely forget about the idea of the two piece trailer (will probably never use that beach cart option), but then again the option is there if I ever need to walk the boat a long way from where I have parked.
I also put in a caster wheel on the tongue so I can walk the trailer easily through parking lots, and in and around my driveway and garage.
Bob


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:46 pm 
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http://m.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ ... _161403_-1

Looks like a great project. This would also be an option.


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 6:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Jeez if I had known about this one I would have bought it in a heartbeat.
Would have cost a little more but would have saved me a week of putzing in the garage.
Bob


Last edited by fusioneng on Fri May 17, 2013 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 3:39 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Nice work on that trailer Bob. They are sold here as Carlex Easy Trailers. I'm surprised HF don't have the galvanised boat trailer version that we can get. It makes a great Island trailer.
Re that Academy trailer:
"The trailer is constructed from aluminum and galvanized aluminum for strength"
:?
What is galvanized aluminium?
Don't they mean steel?


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 8:45 am 
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Location: South Florida
Yes, "galvanized aluminum for strength" is weird. When companies say things like that, it makes you wonder if they know what they are doing.

Keith

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