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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:35 pm 
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This looks to be the trim/lok product for the hull.

Image

http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Hatch-Seal/Trim-Seals/All-Product-Categories_129/Hatch-Seal-Product-Builder_46.aspx

Probably could find all of the Hobie versions at this website.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:58 am 
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Location: Sollentuna, Sweden, Europe
NOHUHU wrote:
This looks to be the trim/lok product for the hull.

Image

http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Hatch-Seal/Trim-Seals/All-Product-Categories_129/Hatch-Seal-Product-Builder_46.aspx

Probably could find all of the Hobie versions at this website.

On your picture there is a measure called "edge thickness", ie the hull hatch lip or the hatch cover lip. This thickness is not same around the hatch. In fact it vary A LOT!

So if the seal construction is sensitive for the right "edge thickness", you should choose another one.

br thomas


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:40 pm 
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We current use only the two types. Large on PA and small on the rest. There is not enough room for the larger seal on a AI/TI. We tried that.

This is actually my image from a previous post on the subject. I believe it was showing the difference between the smaller versions glued and molded.

Image

These parts are shown in our diagrams.

71301001 TRIM LOK SEAL (TOP MOLDED)
71305001 TRIM LOK SEAL (LG TOP-MOLDED)

Both types are improved over previous years... older seals were glued to the trim lok. These are extruded as one piece.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:41 pm 
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Thanks, Matt. Sorry to be a bit dense on this topic, but I guess the image you show is the older glued seal and the newer molded seal. Is that true?

Then, you say:
These parts are shown in our diagrams.

71301001 TRIM LOK SEAL (TOP MOLDED)
71305001 TRIM LOK SEAL (LG TOP-MOLDED)


What "diagrams" are you referring to?

Keith

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:57 pm 
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That's right, Keith. It's from an older thread.

This must be the co-extruded top hatch seal (Trimlok DDA2513)

Image

http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Co-Extruded-Trim-Seal/Trim-Seals/All-Product-Categories_127/DDA2513_150.aspx


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Now that is a diagram, NOHUHU. Note, however, that its shape is perfect, but that in the picture (yours and Matt's), the real molded seal, is a bit sloppy. It just seems to me that if that molded seal is not pressed firmly against the hull, a bit of water pressure would push it over allowing water into the hull. And, in rough seas, with a heavy, expedition load, that kind of water pressure would be frequent and might be enough to cause that "floppy" seal to leak badly.

Keith

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:06 pm 
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Intuitively, I would guess that too. But the Trimlok people recommend not exceeding a 25 to 50% compression range. And not exceeding a certain curvature. If the seal kinks going round a corner, it's guaranteed to leak.

Likewise, if it's fully compressed for a good length of time, it will lose effectiveness.

So leaving the top hatch tightly closed while the boat's in storage or over-tightening the hatch bungees may be exactly the wrong thing to do. At least, according to the manufacturer.


Last edited by NOHUHU on Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:35 pm 
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During 20 yrs of sea kayaking & 6 yrs of AI sailing, I have never left the hatch cover strapped/bungeed on any boat when not on a trip. That is a no-brainer, but I know people do it.

Keith

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"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:54 am 
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mmiller wrote:
This is actually my image from a previous post on the subject. I believe it was showing the difference between the smaller versions glued and molded.


The parts diagrams in the catalog. PA seal page 48 ... AI/TI by adventure hull page 44.

Here are the two current seals side by side.

Image

LEFT -- 71301001 TRIM LOK SEAL (TOP MOLDED)
RIGHT -- 71305001 TRIM LOK SEAL (LG TOP-MOLDED)

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:23 pm 
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Thanks, Matt. If the PA seal had a smaller "edge" opening, I guess it would fit an AI. I like the size of the PA seal tube--for an AI, that is.

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 2:39 pm 
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We tried it and found it to cause issues when closing and opening the hatch on the AI/TI. The groove that the lid fits down into and the inner flange is to close / tight.

The best part is that all are now molded as one feature. The majority of issues were related to the older version... as the bulb would come unglued from the flange clamp.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:27 am 
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It has been 7 weeks since I installed this cheap (about $7), easily installed (about 15 minutes) front hatch seal. I just completed my second major camping trip using this Roids seal. I’ve now done a 1 day sail, a 6-day camping trip through coastal Everglades, and a 4-day camping/fishing trip. The seal looks as good as when installed. The beauty of it is that my boat has never been dryer. On this recent 4-day camp trip, I did not even empty the water out of the boat until the trip was over—about a pint of water. I’ve not coddled the seal which is made of pipe insulation which some felt would not stand up to abuse. Well, it is much better than one might expect.
Image

Image

People who are getting excessive amounts of water, say, more than a quart/liter per dds (difficult day sailing) into their boat, should definitely try this simple DIY seal. You will save yourself a lot of frustration by installing this seal.

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon


Last edited by Chekika on Sat Mar 09, 2013 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Looks great Keith! Also, thanks for the tip about undoing the bungees while in storage. Funnily enough, I alreadyndo that for the aka/ama bungees, but had a blind spot for the (much more important) front hatch seal.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:49 am 
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The glue holding the bubble onto the rim piece of my TI hatch came pretty completely undone, and I got a lot of water. When I removed the bubble I got less, with just the rim piece. I replaced both the cover and boat seals for the hatch in my TI. I have not been out in conditions that would test it much yet.
I also got enough more of the new molded seal to do the hatch cover for my older AI. But then, I still have a problem, because the bubble on the boat side seal of the AI is also coming apart. This is the older horizontal orientation, for which the current molded gasket is inappropriate.
3 options (maybe):
1) reglue the seal. What adhesive do you recommend?
2) replace the seal with something like the original glued gasket material. Does Hobie sell this, and what is the part number?
3)use some other material, like the pipe insulation


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:16 am 
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1) Re-glue w/ superglue.
2) Don't know.
3) Save yourself a lot of frustration and use the ROIDs seal described on page 1 of this post.

Keith

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"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon


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