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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:53 am 
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you just reminded me .. when I opened the hatch on my '07 AI before winter storage I saw how sad my seal looked and thought to myself "Self - dont forget you have to fixx that before your spring flingding !!"

I was going to do both hull and hatch ... now only to read the hull piece is Disco'd ?!?!?!?

When was the design change to the hull flange and how many people does this affect ?

Hobie has no solution for us ? :(

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #1
'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:22 pm 
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Quote:
now only to read the hull piece is Disco'd ?!?!?!?


Not sure where you read that. No, the side glued version is still available for the older model AI. As shown in the parts diagrams as:

71302001 TRIM LOK SEAL (SIDE GLUED)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:35 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Thanks for the update Keith. I haven't been able to get ahold of that size yet locally, but have replacement Hobie seals coming in soon. The dealer didn't have them.

So, my next test likely will use the new molded hatch cover seal along with your ROID bottom seal. Anyone else tried Keiths hatch trick yet on serious sails?

Keith, as far as the aft water penetration points, how loaded/low in the water was the stern on your trips? Did you keep a sponge or towel back there to catch leaks? I usually do.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:00 am 
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NOHUHU,

I'm sure my boat rode a bit higher in the stern since I did not have my 45-50# cooler back there. I had my small cooler (20#?), and it was right behind my seat--more in the center of the boat. While we had one very dds on the recent 4-day trip, I was fishing behind islands and not doing a lot of sailing. So, it was not the best test--but my boat sure was dry the whole trip. At the same time, since I installed the Roids seal, I've never had more than a qt/ltr of water, and maybe closer to a pt. Before the Roids seal, I was getting 1-2 gal/dds.

Also, another factor might be the hakas. I'm putting about 20# out on them, which may cause the bow to ride a bit higher.

This is not the best picture of me & my AI, but it looks like the stern is riding reasonably high for a fully loaded boat.
Image

I keep a Home Depot sponge (8"x6"x2") in the middle hatch, but it got "lost" on the recent 4-day trip. I borrowed a friend's sponge and got about a pt of water out at the end.

Keith

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Must have been so hard for you to leave the good-old Megacooler at home... :wink:
Image

But that's a better balanced boat now. When you ride the Hakas, you're further able to rebalance the boat (bring the bow up/down), as desired.

In your test, it sounds like the hatch was doing 80% of the leaking. I hope that's right and the ROID will work for the rest of us too.

I was wondering how you manage to keep sailing water out of your coolers. I pack short coolers for day sails and in the last year, I've been flooding them on the AI/TI on almost every run. Hard ones, soft ones,..all of em. Right behind my seat.

Flooding your foodstuffs and ice could really put a ding in your wilderness plans. Are you having any issues with this?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 1:49 am 
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NOHUHU,

Yes, it was hard to jettison that great Xtreme cooler. I would put all my food in that cooler. Problem was/is it weighed in the 45-50# range. I could handle it w/o the 22# hakas, but they were the straw (22#) that broke the camel's back. My wife, who is currently in Northern NM skiing, is still so attached to it that she says she will carry it on our trips. Who am I to argue?

My new cooler has no openings in the bottom; therefore, no leaks. The big Xtreme cooler has a drain, but has never flooded. Have you tried putting the plug in your cooler drain?

Keith

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I sail: Biscayne Bay, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:07 am 
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No bungs on my coolers, Keith. All my water comes in the top. I guess you need to see me sail to understand,.. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:27 am 
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My 2 coolers have pretty tight lids, but I doubt they are guaranteed to be water tight.

Keith

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I sail: Biscayne Bay, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:30 am 
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My 6’ strip of Armacell split pipe insulation was about a 1’ longer than needed for my Roids seal. Without thinking, I threw the extra foot away. I now realize that foot and superglue represents the ideal repair kit for the new Roids front hatch seal. Therefore, if you do this seal, hang on to that 1’ section and keep a bottle of Loctite Superglue handy.

I did notice after my last trip a couple small “tears” in the Armacell insulation. I simply put a small drop of superglue on them. These very small tears may represent simple disintegration of the seal or they may be the result of careless treatment on my part. In any case, with Loctite superglue handy they are not a problem. In addition, as noted above, if you have a big rip or gouge, you can simply replace it with a bit of extra Armacell you have.

If I have to replace this seal every season at a cost of $6-7 dollars and a few minutes time, I won’t have a problem with that. However, with my first replacement, I’m going to look into covering the Armacell material with a mesh material as suggested by Fusioneng earlier on this thread.

Keith

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I sail: Biscayne Bay, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 12:23 am 
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Hey Chekika, great thinking, I might keep your idea in mind for a quick easy fix if my seal needs replacing again.
As you say the only drawback is possibly the longevity of the softer foam seal.

I have sourced rubber seal that is intended to be used in a car boot seal and hence has a much more pronounced lip on the base (to seal against the car body) and a lip at the top.
Image

Image

This seems to work well as it deflects the water splashes at the base before the water reaches the seal point against the hatch. The lip at the top also slopes outwards which seems to be doing a good job. I glued it on with silicone sealer around the inner base edge and glued the join.

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:28 am 
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Certainly looks worth a try, Geordie.

Keith

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I sail: Biscayne Bay, Everglades to Cape Romano, Ft Desoto, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:37 pm 
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I like it! Especially the seal on the lower edge.

Too bad it only fits TI's and the newest AI hull.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:48 pm 
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I wonder if we can find that gasket material here, where cars don't have "boots", but "trunks". It does seem better suited to sealing the inner hatch coaming than the lid (as your pics show you did). And, as Nohuhu noted, will not be so appropriate on older (not that much older) AI's in which the coaming turns horizontal.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:50 am 
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Quote:
And, as Nohuhu noted, will not be so appropriate on older (not that much older) AI's in which the coaming turns horizontal.


A dremel with sanding drum would make quick work of that problem

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #1
'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:30 am 
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beebrain wrote:
I wonder if we can find that gasket material here, where cars don't have "boots", but "trunks". It does seem better suited to sealing the inner hatch coaming than the lid (as your pics show you did).


Ah yes I never understood why cars had boots bud did not have feet to put them on. But then are trunks worn to cover your butt or cover the cars but?

So this is the profile for the seal I have used:

http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/epdm-boot ... spool.html

It probably all comes from somewhere like this manufacturer:

http://www.dorubber.com/product/door-se ... hweld.html

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