Hobie Cat Forums

How so? You can't raise a horizontal plane by removing material.

I may be missing something. My understanding is that only the newest AIs (late 2012ish) have a raised, molded lip (vertical, like the TI).

My 2011 hull has no lip in the hatch opening, so a right angle Trimlok seal is needed, to create one.

I have followed your example Chekika in using the fat pipe insulation material. When testing before going out on the water I turned the garden hose on the hatch and around the edges quite brutishly...full blast from a foot away and did not get any water ingress.
However, I still got water(about 10 litres or 2-3 gals) inside when I took the AI out for a test run. Although I have put the hull on the trailer and filled it to the brim with water, (thats a hell of a weight of water applying pressure to any potential leak)I did not find any water leaking or even dripping out.
Some time back I had a plastic welder fix a serious leak in the left hand drink holder where it split after crashing into a mooring bouy at about 5 or 6 knots, (I was forum rated as...er...deckhand at the time ) but the repair was 100% successful.
So I'm not sure where to look , except perhaps the rear hatch which if opened is hells own job to close and reseal properly.
Cheers Vintagereplica
If it works ok...modify it anyway!

Vintage--I can't image where all that water is coming in, except to quote myself: "1-3 gal of water in an AI/TI after a dds must be coming in the front hatch."

I suggest you try the pressure test that NOHUHU recently outlined in a thread on this forum about leak testing. With the new Roids seal, you could even test the front hatch. http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=46579

Keith

_________________
I sail: S FL, Key Largo, Everglades, 10,000 Islands, Cape Romano, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

Yes, thanks Keith. I did see and download Nohuhu's post with piccies into my Hobie folder to try just in case...amazing where bubbles come from.
Cheers Ian

Struth! Hope you find the leakage- it will help.

I haven't been able to source more of that r3 insulation foam yet, so no ROID tests to report here. Hell, I'm still waiting on my Hobie dealer's 1-month backorder of trimlok seals.

Maybe someone else can get the blow test done?

Greetings Nohuhu; I notice we are starting to Australianise you...just to assist you, the colloquial Australinism STRUETH you will note squeezes an E into the word...though some southern folks might add a W as in STREWTH. Either way you're learning...bloody proud of you Son!
Cheers Vintagereplica

You're "Fostering"him, so to speak.
T2

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Fish worship--is it wrong?

G'day T²;
Well we're doing something T²...at least we are teaching the poor Americans English...just a pity we can't do something about their pronunciation...er, sorry old son, but that might include your lot too since you are joined together. Now if we could just train everyone on that continent to speak Strine...
Cheers Vintagereplica

Happy to be interpreter here! "Strine" is "Australian". The originator was a guy under the pseudonym "Afferbeck Lauder" (Alphabetical order), but it was made famous by author John O'Grady who wrote a book "They're a weird mob", which was made into a film. Worth chasing up!

A few examples of Strine:

"Egg nishner" aircon
"One spawner time..." the way many fairy tales start
"Longenar Farms" You need these to hold the paddle properly

YEAH, THANKS F' THAT tONY...DIDN'T THINK TO ADD A FEW EXAMPLES. THE BOOK ,"THEY'RE A WIERD MOB" AND THE FILM OF THE SAME NAME ARE AUSSIE CLASSICS...BASICALLY TELLS OF THE ADVENTURES OF A YOUNG 1950'S ITALIAN MIGRANT BRICKIES LABOURER AND HIS IMPRESSIONS OF AUSTRLIANS.
RECOMMENDED FOR ALL AMERICANS AND CANADIANS CONTEMPLATING A VISIT TO SEE OUR COUNTRY...AND WILDLIFE.
CHEERS IAN

Keith, great, simple tip with your '"roids" design. Installed it in under 5 mins, took out for a test ride in some conditions that would normally put quite a bit of water in hull. After the trial run, happy to say everything bone dry!

_________________
Bob
Proud member Kayak Fishing Association of New York
Supporting member NEKF, Supporting member Team Jinx
KW's KFA Team 3

After seeing that video, I was going to ask you how much water you took on.

Hull was dry, amas took on a bit! Not much, but I'll run a pressure test, had a small leak in the past under the Hobie sticker where the injection molding plug is.

_________________
Bob
Proud member Kayak Fishing Association of New York
Supporting member NEKF, Supporting member Team Jinx
KW's KFA Team 3

Thank you so much for this thread Chekika.
I went to Home Depot and picked up the insulation
material. I don't know how you spent as much
as you did. It cost me 97 cents.

Beardedguy--This is a link to the stuff I used: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-1-2-in-x-6-ft-Rubber-Self-Seal-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation-HST05812/100550644.
It is entitled "Armacell 1/2 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation" It has the word rubber in its online label. Online cost $5.25

Home Depot has a much cheaper, but very similar, material labeled "Armacell Tubolit 1/2 in. x 6 ft. Polyethylene Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation." Note that it is made of polyethylene. Online cost $1.64. Here is the link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-Tubolit-1-2-in-x-6-ft-Polyethylene-Self-Seal-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation-OES05838/100572231

Presumably the rubber version is better than the much cheaper polyethylene version--longer lasting, tougher? When I went to Home Depot, I happened to find the rubber version, and it is standing up quite well. I didn't see the polyethylene version.

I'm going to edit my original post to indicate I used the rubber version.

Keith

_________________
I sail: S FL, Key Largo, Everglades, 10,000 Islands, Cape Romano, Cedar Key

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein